Advice

Want to know more with a better understanding of the sometimes confusing world of health, beauty and cosmetics with ever more information and details on the latest in both fashion trends and make-up?

These pages explore that and are for the beginner or everyday user of make-up and also explains some rather advanced techniques as well. There are pages showing how to buy and apply make up, remove it and put together a nicer style, a better you!

Check back as these pages will be updated and evolve giving more information and details on the latest trends in both fashion and make-up!

I have been approached by many with how I apply make up, so come join with me and if you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask!

Skin type is normal but with an increasingly drier T-zone. Crow's feet, smile lines, creases in forehead, lines around the lips, bags under the eyes and sun damage (age spots) are much more evident. The skin no longer rebounds as quickly as it used to, therefore extreme weight gains or losses begin to show up on your face.

Wear adequate sunscreen (SPF 15 or higher). Use gentle facial cleansers, lightweight eye crèmes and moisturizers. Use of alpha hydroxy acid products and a retinol product will speed up skin's cell turnover and deliver a fresher, healthier glow to your skin.

Your skin is much drier than in years past. Flare ups of adult acne may be common. Wrinkles and sagging become more dramatic. Cell turnover decreases by almost half.

Wear adequate sunscreen (SPF 15 or higher). Use gentle facial cleansers (possibly those that are cream-based). You may want to try using heavier moisturizers, but stay with light weight eye crèmes to prevent eye cream overkill. Alpha hydroxy acid products and a retinol product will speed up skin cell turnover and deliver a fresher, healthier glow to your skin.

Technique:

Make-Up Presentation by Jenelle Rose

Originally presented 9/06/2000 Updated online regularly since!

Part One: FEMALE MAKEUP OR MAKEOVER

Part one is based upon female techniques, Part two below, provides information specific to the TG-male to female community.

Getting the best look possible with what you have and going about improving that which you can. Prepare yourself for an evening out.

The Basics

It starts with the basics, long before an actual evening out and about. Starting with proper skin care, getting enough sleep, watching what and how you eat and what you drink all adds up to a more beautiful you, both inside and outside the body.

First, sleep, feel they don’t need anymore but not only is sleep better for stress management, it can do wonders for the soul and eliminate those bags under the eyes. Those bags can also be managed by drinking plenty of fluids, especially water. You should drink 8 oz. cups a day. Tea, coffee and soda are actually de-hydrating as well as fattening, so avoid those and anything else with sugar in it for a beverage, water is best! Cucumbers work wonders for bags under the eyes.

As for other treatments, L’Oreal makes a product called “Revit-a-lift” that is every bit as good as the $30-40 department store eye creams and it is available at all drug and grocery stores for as little as $10.00!

Wash your face twice daily. Use facial liquid soaps / foaming cleansers not bar soaps as they all have lard as an ingredient which can clog pores, causing blemishes. After a wash, wait an hour and then blot your “T-Zone”, that is the forehead/nose area with a paper tissue. If it shows a residue, you have oily skin. If you wash your face and immediately afterwards, your skins feel dry or tight, you are using a too harsh soap. Notice that these are not the same things, you could indeed; still have “oily” skin. If there is no residue, you could have dry, normal skin. Combination skin is when your forehead feels oily after an hour but your cheeks feel dried out. All of this goes into how to take care of your skin. When you have oily skin, you can forego using a moisturizer. Dry skin begs for it. If your skin does show blemishes, even with proper two-a-day washings, you have clogged pores. Rinsing with cold water and attacking the blemishes with anti-septic, such as those that you get when you have your ears pierced with make most spots go away in a matter of a couple days. Avoid the Clearasil-type treatments, as they are too drying and don’t treat the problem, they only make it worse. Be aware that this is a simple overview. You may have to go to a dermatologist for specific problems. Blemishes can be caused by hormonal changes within the body and heredity among other things. Water can help by purifying the skin from the inside and keeping it pliable.

The area around the eyes is the most sensitive and there is less muscle there. The skin is also thinner. When you wash your face, rinse with plenty of water and when taking make off, do not stretch the skin. Keep moisturizers not made for the eye area away as the fragrances and other additives can cause puffiness.

Take your make up off every time you wear it. Use the least strong removers that will still do the job. Waterproof mascaras are the hardest to remove. Cetaphil is extra mild and dermatologist-recommended. Department store brands are the most expensive but not necessarily better. Going to bed with makeup on is sure to clog the pores. There are wet-wipes and other methods available to try with and without water available.

Investigate the products label for ingredients that you may be allergic to or that can cause a reaction. It helps to try a new product in a discreet area first and wait 48 hours before you put it to use. Some people are just more sensitive to certain things than others.

Additional Beauty Tips by: Sam Dean who joined The Rumour team as Beauty Writer after extensive travels abroad. She previously worked on New Woman as the beauty assistant but is now putting her stamp on the dot-com world.

1. Creamy pink lipsticks can double up as blush.
2. Eye shadow works as eyeliner. Just use a thin damp brush.
3. Moisturizer applied on the ends of your hair will temporarily seal split ends.
4. Mild shampoos can double up as shower gel.
5. Hair conditioner works well as shaving foam.
6. If you wake up with bed head hair try changing your Pillow Case. Satin Pillow Cases allow the hair to slide along the pillow in your sleep whereas cotton cases don't.
7. Hold your hairdryer above your head, the hot air will then flow down the hair shaft and over the cuticles.
8. If you have sensitive eyes stick to baby shampoo, the soap won't hurt if it gets in the eye.
9. If you have colored hair avoid dandruff shampoos, they strip the color causing fade.
10. Never use other people's mascara, unless you want to risk conjunctivitis or other eye infections.
11. Try Scotch tape instead of expensive T Zone stickers to drag out those black heads.
12. If you have small eyes, avoid dark eye-shadows, they make the eyes look smaller.
13. Thin-lipped people should wear glossy lipstick, which makes lips appear fuller.
14. If you're looking to buy makeup brushes, check out art shops as they're much cheaper and just as affective.
15. Don't wash your hair if you're wearing it up. The natural oils in unwashed hair make it easier to style.
16. If your skin is dry use a cream, if it’s oily use lotion or gel.
17. If you look tired don't pile makeup like mascara or eyeliner on the lower eyes - it will just drag your face down and make you look exhausted.
18. Never pluck eyebrows from the top, just pull out those strays along the natural eyebrow line at the bottom.
19. Don't bother with expensive eye makeup removers, Johnson's Baby Oil works better.
20. For shiny hair rinse in mineral water.
21. Skip wearing mascara on the lower lashes, it doesn't do much for defining the eye and it always smudges.
22. Experiment with new colors from the supermarket before you waste money on posh brands that don't suit you.
23. If you're into home dying, wipe a little Vaseline around your hair line to stop skin getting dyed.
24. If you're posh, mix Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream with a powder eye shadow for a 'grease' effect. If you're not posh, Vaseline works nearly as well
25. If you want your blush to look natural choose the shade your cheeks turn when you blush naturally

Brands: Basically you have two main choices besides the Avon lady, Mary Kay, etc. -Drug store brands and the department stores'. Department stores are nice because you have someone there helping guide you through the daunting choices of the many foundations, etc with regard to your skin type, pigment color and style and particular needs. The down side is you could spend a bunch of money and either still have just scratched the surface or two, it will be just one opinion, not necessarily a correct one. This service also has another price. Department store brands are very expensive and you do not always get what you pay for! Remember also, store lighting can have a major impact on the choices made and these could also be bad decisions. Many stores sell line covering products for also reducing dark circles. These products only make the lines disappear for as long as you are wearing them and there are ways to preventing circles in the first place. Point is, they are sold as creams, ointments what have you for upwards of $30.00. Down at the local drug store or supermarket you can buy L'Oreal's' Revitalift, (new!-Line Eraser) which does the same exact thing for $10.00! My favorite Department store counters are Clinique, Prescriptives, MAC and anything French! At the drug stores, I favor Maybeline, L'Oreal and Oil of Olay.

Specifics:

Cleansers: Always liquids because bar soaps have lard in them and can clog pores. I like mine with moisturizers in them like Dove's. Masks and scrubs that exfoliate are good to use once per week. Avoid too much pulling and straining around the eye area. Use lots of water.

Moisturizers: Oil of Olay makes a very light one and others are available with an SPF-15 built in. Bear in mind, not everyone needs a moisturizer and it is best to use one after your shower and 10 minutes before applying makeup for the skin to absorb it in. Jergen's has a shave minimizing formula out now you can buy for about $4.00! It feels nice. Some swear by it. I don't know yet.

Foundations: Most critical decisions are based upon your skin type, coverage necessary, how to apply and skin color. Available in creams, lotions and compact, you need to know the purpose of foundation is to even out skin tone. Foundation should disappear on your skin; the shade should always exactly match your natural coloring. The key to a perfect finish is simple: blend, blend, blend, and then blend.

Apply lightly with clean fingers, brush or sponge (dry or damp). Beard cover works best with either separate products such as Dermablend or tricks such as lipstick, etc. Matt will yield the greatest coverage, lotions the least. To help reduce shine, blot oil with a tissue before touching up with powder.

Concealers: Used to cover specific blemishes such as showing capillaries, red spots of no particular known origin, birth marks, etc. They can also be used alone or with lipstick or Dermablend as beard cover up. Yellow in stick form, one shade lighter than your own skin tone is recommended. Laura Mercier's Secret Camouflage concealer is best at hiding dark under-eye circles. Use a small brush or your fingertip and apply only where needed, available in pot, lotion or cream.

Men Tips: There are things men can use to improve their looks. Liquid blush looks great when used sparingly. It really warms up the skin. Try it on cheeks, the bridge of your nose, chin, temples, and / or at the hairline. Also, try using it on lips to enhance the natural lip color.

A well-blended, yellow-based concealer can help cover up minor imperfections (pimples or redness around the nose), and an eyelash curler is just as effective at opening up men's eyes as it is on women. Brow pencil is another thing men can use to give very subtle definition to the eye. If you like a healthy or tanned look, a sheer bronzing powder looks great too -- if you have more patience, try some self-tanner. Keeping eyebrows and facial hair well-groomed, helps too.

Powders: You generally want to go with a translucent, very fine loose powder. Powder goes on after the foundation and concealer and gives a finished look as well as locking it in. Optionally, put on a coat of loose face powder again after all other color has been applied to help soften the look. Take pressed power (compact) with you for quick touchups. Powder gives your skin a finished look. Using a big powder puff, lightly brush away any excess powder for a clean, flawless look.

The reason why your face looks white or like a ghost from the neck up in photos, or your neck/chest looks darker is because of powder. Even though to the eye, your face and neck might match, powder matte down the skin and reflects light back off of it and washes you out. So to avoid the two-tone look, you either have to powder your face and your neck and/or chest, or else you have to not apply powder to your face.

Shadows: Available wet or dry, cream and wild. Choices abound! Achieve a harmonious look by choosing shades within the same color family. For day wear, choose natural shades depending on your eye color. You want to keep the look natural but bring out the color you have. Apply a little foundation or concealer on your eyelids followed by a pale, light shade over entire lid and brow bone. Then accent with a darker shadow along the lid. Example: For blue eyes, choose shades of brown-2 or 3. The lightest is the highlighter. This goes on first and usually all it takes is a "swoosh" under and across the natural brow line. Next the medium shade is applied onto the lid itself and just beyond the crease, keeping most of the darker shades now to the outer corner of the eye. The darkest shade can be used in the crease itself very judiciously or just at the lash line, wet being the best for longer wear. Just dip an angled brush into a small pot of water, shake off excess and then dig into a side area of your shadow, again shaking off excess and apply as closely to the lash line as possible, starting from the inside of the eye, working outward. Repeat for other eye. As to doing the bottom lash line, that may be taking it too far, particularly for a day look. Remember, less is more. Make up should enhance what you already have not draw attention to itself. Too much and your a caricature of a woman or a Drag Queen. For night time, pretty much anything goes, the darker the better sometimes for “glamour” look.

To apply cream eye shadow, use a sponge to smooth on a very thin, very light layer of loose powder on the entire eyelid before putting on the shadow. Lightly apply cream eye shadow using your fingers. Follow with another light application of loose powder.

Eye Liners: Pencils, "Art liners", creams, combination pencils or shadows? Pencils drag, liners smudge, creams disappear or "roll." Shadows are my choice to use as a liner. Easy to put on, they stay and can be built upon and easily blended. One way to balance out your face is to focus on your eyes. Don't put a big black line around your eyes unless you want a closed-in look. Keep the eye area open. Keeps eye shadow flowing outward off the eye. Lift your brows by tweezing the arch a little higher than normal. This will visually alter the proportions of the face and draw the eye upward and away from your mouth.

Mascara: Waterproof for times you will either perspire or otherwise be getting wet, regular is easier to take off without hurting your skin and therefore much more recommended. Max Factor 2000 Calorie and L’Oreal Volume Express are two favorites. They go on without clumping and make for wonderful looking lashes. If you curl (recommended), do so before apply mascara, otherwise you will have them sticking and breaking off! Curling lashes opens up the eyes. Putting a little extra powder under the eyes to catch fallen flakes is also recommended. One coat of brown for day wear, two coats of black for night. Use a metal fine-tooth lash comb immediately after applying to separate lashes and a Q-tip, available in flat/pointed sides as well, for blending away flakes on and around the eye.

Brows: Pencil or shadow work well to fill in a light brow. Brows are important as they frame your face, always tweeze from below the brow. Working with shadow and a flat angled brush starting in the darkest area and work outward, tapering to the outside of the eye in a fine line. If pencil is to be used, apply in short strokes outward and into a tapered point. Color should match your natural head hair. Follow this with either an old toothbrush or a brow brush, brushing to smudge and diffuse the color, blending it in and bringing your brow to a point at the bottom. If you apply too much color, soften it by applying a bit of loose face powder in your correct shade with a powder puff. Your brow should be even between left and right sides and you should use the pencil to nose tip pertaining to where the arch should start, its peak and where it should end.

Lips: Save for second last and after you put your top on. Optionally, start by using lip liner pencil and frame in around the natural line, depending on whether you have thin lips or full lips. You may choose to forgo this with the new 8-hour type lip sticks and just apply these with a brush rather than the tube, dusting with single-ply tissue paper in-between lips and power. Do this about three times. For males, to get fuller lips, cover the edges all around your mouth with concealer, and blend well into the skin. Then use a sharpened lip pencil in a neutral color with a firm texture to draw outside your natural lip line. Then just fill in the color with pencil or the lip color of your choice. Use the four-point method. Dot the tips of your top lips and the bottom directly below and draw a line outward to the corners. Follow with lipstick, using a lip brush for a more finished appearance and fuller coverage. Again, blot with single-ply tissue and repeat using lipstick from the tube, building the color for longer staying power. Finish with a spot of gloss on the middle bottom lip and smack lips together for fuller looking lips. Do not try to have both attention getting lips and eyes at the same time. Go for one or the other. If your eyes are to be the focal point, then choose soft shades of lip color.

It's really hard to keep a dark lip color on if you're eating and drinking, no matter how good the brand is. Just remember if you're eating anything even remotely oily, it will take the color right off, just as if you were eating makeup remover. So if you're out at dinner or a party, try to remember to blot your lips with a napkin or tissue as you're eating to keep color from smearing. You might try dusting a little loose powder on the edge of lips before going out for the night - it can increase color's staying power.

Blush: Definitely last. You do not want to apply too much as is usually common, nor do you want racing stripes! Using a crème or powder, blush in a shade that matches your natural color after a run. Apply powder with a blush brush, not the one they gave you included with the product but one that is properly shaped, textured and sized to do the job correctly! Make a smile and apply at the apples of the cheeks and blend towards the temple. For crèmes, use your fingers and apply in a triangular fashion using the same rules. Do not use too much! Less is more.

"Application is everything!" This is definitely a true statement when it comes to creating that oh-so-flawless face of beauty, regardless of what actual makeup products are being used. It’s all about technique…so here’s a quick run down of application techniques.

CONTOUR - To create shadows, or give dimension to the low planes of the face, i.e., temples, orbital bone, sides of nose, under the cheekbones, jaw line, cleft, corner of lips

HIGHLIGHT - To emphasize the high planes of the face, i.e., center of forehead, brow bone, bridge of nose, above cheekbone, chin, center of bottom lip, center of eyelid

STAIN - To apply color, then remove it, leaving behind the stain or first layer of application

110 Mistakes Working Women Make and How to Avoid Them: Dressing Smart in the '9Os; By Joanna Nicholson

Bobbi Brown Beauty: The Ultimate Beauty Resource; By Bobbi Brown, Annemarie Iverson (Contributor)

Sensational Scarf’s: 44 Great Ways to Turn a Scarf into a Fabulous Fashion Look; By Carol Straley

1001 Beauty Solutions: The Ultimate One-Step Adviser for Your Everyday / Beauty Problems; By Beth Barrick-Hickey

Chic Simple Women's Wardrobe: Kim Johnson Gross and deft Stone; By Rachel Urquhart, James Wojcik (Photographer)

The World's Best-Kept Beau~ Secrets: What Really Works in Beauty, Diet & Fashion; By Diane Irons

The make up counters of department stores-Estee Lauder, Clinique, MAC, and Prescriptives, etc. all offer a lot of information. Many times department store offer free make-overs and give free samples for you to try just for your skin type and color.

Nails

Once a week give yourself a manicure, toes and hands. Let your hands and feet soak in water for about 10 minutes. Then using a cuticle removing cream, cotton and an orange stick, push the cuticles back, do not clip, to the skin. Let your fingernails grow and keep them filed to approximately ¼” white showing. In a single direction, file your nails straight across then under the corners, rounding them slightly. Do the same for the toe nails but keep them shorter. One reason we don’t want to go through more hose than we have to. Make sure they are smooth.

The trend in fingernails these days is medium length. Wear extensions for special occasions. A French nail, where you use a masking tape and paint your tips white is nice to wear on occasion for a clean look but nothing beats a full nail polish. Reds are best for toes and anything goes for the fingernails. The color does not have to match your outfit, indeed it rarely does. Use darker shades as you would for your lips and eyes for evening and lighter, paler colors for day. Remove polish using cotton balls and a non-acetone polish remover, Cutex makes a very good one. Hold the cotton ball with the remover on the nail for a brief 10-15 seconds. It makes the polish come off much easier. One ball should remove polish from the nails of one hand. Dispose in the toilet, then flush.

Keep in mind there are several ways to take of nails. Buffing them, using a nail hardener or a matt finish polish on them are all things you can try besides regular polish.

As for polishes, your nails are the last things you do before going out, unless you have the luxury of being able to use a polish all of the time. The express or quick-drying formulas are not as smooth nor does the product last as long in most cases as the regular polishes do. Even so a quick dry one will take about 10 minutes to be dry enough to put a coat on and at least 30 to 60 more will be needed for a real hard finish.

Keeping a polish in the refrigerator can help an older one go on smother. Trying to bring them back to life with a solvent is not a good idea. To eliminate streaking dip the polish brush in the bottle for each nail. Twice may be necessary for the thumbnail. Using the stroke method, apply the polish down the middle from the skin outward. Follow this up with a stroke along each side of that middle one, not to the edge of your nail at the finger. That is not necessary; in fact not going “edge to edge” can make your nails look longer! It is also far easier to get the polish off for a no-tell after finish when it has been removed after your evening is over. Before you use a color on your nails it helps to have a base coat to allow easier removal of all the color later. Women use a base to help fill in the nail for a more finished look as well as a strengthener.

There are “correcting pens” to remove mistakes but these are not necessary. After each nail, if a mistake was made use your other hands finger or thumb nail to remove the excess polish and then wipe onto a tissue in between. Doing this right away as you go will be far easier and successful than waiting till later to them all at one time. If you are able to wear polish all the time the excess that falls on the skin will come off with wear and/or subsequent washings like on your toes. Following a base-polish with a coat or two of color and then a then a layer of a quick dry coat or topcoat is only for long term wear.

Brands: OPI, Revlon, MAC but not the fast finish types. You trade speed drying for over-all smoothness.

Lengths: Your own nails or something glued on. You don't have to bother carrying glue or a nail repair kit with spares and it is far easier getting dressed without those long nails getting in the way. Try keeping natural nails manicured yourself and well cared for. Keep them at a medium length which works well. Too long and they will break, split (or draw attention for males).

Colors: Daytime-mostly paler colors like frost or pearl whites, silver, various shades of pink; nighttime-same or more likely darker shades like reds, wine colors, even black.

Finish Types

Hardeners/Strengtheners: Always use these, day time or as base to color finishes. They will help you to grow longer nails without splits or breaks. Choose OPI matte hardener for general everyday wear, this is a clear, un-detectable polish that is really one of a kind. A bit expensive but worth it or L’Oreal if you don’t mind a shine!

Base Coats: Just what they say they are. These or the hardeners can also act as a shield between your nail and the color, making the color more completely and easily removed.

Top Coats: Not necessary, unless you will be leaving your color on for a period of time like as on your toes for a few weeks. They just help the polish withstand the wear nails go through in a typical day or week, forestalling the re-application of color. After a few weeks due to normal growth or weekly, you may want to re-do your nails anyway. That is when to give yourself a pedicure by the following methodology:

Pedicure: Using a Non-Acetone nail polish remover, remove all color, then wash with soap and water and pat dry. Using a cuticle remover (Sally Hanson's, Revlon, etc.), spot around the perimeter of the nail and then using an "orange stick" and a piece of cotton push the cuticle back toward the toe, never cut. Do this carefully and thoroughly. Again wash and dry. At this point, you may wish to use lotion and work that into the cuticles and around the nail completely, do your whole foot even, if you really want to indulge. Let your feet soak in warm water and use a pumice stone to remove old dead alligator skin to treat and revive your feet. Use a toe clipper and first clip the nails to a relatively short length and follow with an emery board filing (metal is ok here but never on your fingernails)! Only file in one direction and include rounding the corners. Filing in a saw fashion, weakens the nails and will cause them to be more brittle. Rounded toe nails and straight across fingernails, with a longer look and rounded edges is preferred. At this point you are done. It is good to let the nails not be polished for a few days so as to breathe. When you do polish, two coats of a red are best for the toes. Top coats, hardeners, etc. are optional.

Quick Dry Coats: Not needed. Spending a few minutes in front of a directed fan can help but giving yourself time to do your nails and letting them set naturally is the best. 15 minutes is good, 30 better (can now slip on a coat, color will not smear but could lose shine if touched). It takes over an hour for a nail color to harden. Nails are the last thing you do when going out. After getting your purse ready, putting your hose on and your shoes on, everything, a real girl can do her nails long before she does anything else, even a day or two ahead.

Removing Nail Polish: There are many lower-end brands of nail polish remover that are just as good as pricier brands like Tony and Tina or Nailtiques. Favorites are Sally Hansen and Cutex. If you have natural nails you may want to use a non-acetone formula as acetone can be harsh on the nails. If you have artificial wraps or tips, you must use non-acetone polish remover because acetone can erode or even "melt" the nail tip or wrap. Both Cutex and Sally Hansen make moisturizing formulas with ingredients like vitamin E as well as nail strengthening formulas because nails can be left very dry after removing nail polish. It's always best to follow up with hand or cuticle cream.

Make Up Removal:

Eyes

Use a facial cleanser or baby shampoo to wash face. There are many choices depending on your skin type, preferences and make up used. Waterproof makeup is especially tough to remove. Use cotton balls for your eye make up as well. After washing your face with baby wash, use baby oil on a cotton ball on two sides. Let the solution stay on your eyes about 15 seconds, giving it time to dissolve the mascara and wipe gently without pulling or dragging the skin. Wash again with baby shampoo on the eyes and rinse then thoroughly with water. Repeat a second time, if necessary. Working the cotton ball up as well as down and sideways will probably be necessary.

Using a cotton ball with baby oil on the lips, even with the 8-hour variety, will remove it completely and easily.

Quick Tips

Posture: Stand up straight, sit straight. Models say, when standing push breasts out, suck tummy in and push buttocks out. Also, do not slump. When sitting and talking to someone, concentrate on listening, do not change the subject, do sit forward in an attentive position. Sit like a lady with legs crossed or knees together at all times!

Walking: Walk as lightly as possible taking little steps. Do not make big movements, instead take small steps, walk on curbs not over them, as found in parking lots. Carry your weight forward. High heels will automatically push your calves out. Walking in high heels for long periods of time or distances however is not recommended but is sometimes the feminine way. Try to be stylish practical as well and always care for your feet!

Eating: Eat very small portions and only one helping. Portions should be the size of your fist. Eat more salads and try to avoid red meat and fattening or processed foods. Stay away from cookies, potato chips and other high-fat snack foods. Pretzels and popcorn (not too much butter and air popped is best!) are better. Stay away from carbs!

Pantyhose & lingerie: Buy good quality stockings and pantyhose. White, black, suntan, nude, opaque, sheer, control top and/or sheer to waist, reinforced toe and or heel or sheer. Shave your legs if you have a lot of hair, if possible perhaps only in the wintertime when you generally don’t wear shorts. Consider the outfit or shoes you will be wearing as to the hose you will pick to wear. Generally don’t wear hose with open-toe shoes. Wear the reinforced type hose for distance walking. Never put hose in the dryer; wash them after wearing in warm water and mild soap and let hang dry. Wash bras and other lingerie with elastic properties in lingerie bags always and line dry.

Pull pantyhose one leg at a time over the knee carefully and slowly. Use gloves when putting the hoses on to avoid runs, at least make sure both fingernails and toenails are filed and smooth. Pull up just a little at a time alternating each side inching your way up. Careful not to twist the hose or you will feel them to get tight on one leg. Put them on over waist cinchers and such to create a smoother effect. Watch what cinchers do and correct as necessary for a smoother look. For hose or stockings, wear panties over a garter’s grips when these wearing full-fashion hose. To get the pantyhose seams straight and in the middle on your tummy, place your hand inside the hose and carefully adjust with the back of your hand. Do not pull them, stretching them into place. Buy good quality pantyhose from brands like L’eggs, No-Nonsense and the like. They are about $3 to $4.00. and available in pack of three or four. Full-fashion hose can be $16.00. Some hose have a garter or a stay up (Thigh Highs) built in. Do not put lotion on your legs prior to putting on a pair of these thigh high stay-ups. Save your ruined, runner-erred hose for around the house, trying on outfits or even combining one good leg with another from another set. Watch when you wear two pair of hose for an optical effect that you don’t want, especially with darker colored hose. Black hose with white business outfits are OK as black is considered business. Do that at night however and your look could be called sluttish. Summer dresses and shorts look best without hose, unless they are “suntan”. Cutoff shorts and black hose can be very sexy.

Contouring can create some beautiful planes in your face but save it for evening. By day, it can simply make you look too made up. The problem is that the blending isn't thorough enough and your efforts are too noticeable. Keep in mind that less is more.

Contour powder should be a neutral color with no red or yellow overtones. Ideally, it should be a few shades darker than your foundation. Actually, using a darker foundation is a good idea as it can be blended far more easily than powder.

Blending is very, very important. Practicing, is the only way you are going to become skilled at this application.

To accent cheekbones, blend in three dots of liquid highlighter above the cheekbones. Dust a little brown contour powder below the cheekbones and then fill in with your favorite shade of blush.

To cover dark shadows under the eyes, use an under eye concealer that is one shade lighter than your foundation. It should not be so light however that you appear to have white circles under your eyes. Apply it very gently with a brush until the darkness disappears. Make sure that the concealer is not overly oily or it will settle into any fine lines in the area.

Another cause of this puffiness is lack of sleep or excessive alcohol. To reduce the puffiness, you can apply a cold compress until the area returns to its original state. If alcohol is the culprit, increase your intake of fluids to rehydrate the skin.

Q: I've got a lot of old already opened makeup sitting around in my bathroom. How do I know what's safe to keep and use, and what I should throw away?

A: We go to so much trouble to keep our skin clean and healthy; the last thing you want is to contaminate it with old, possibly unsafe cosmetics.

Bacteria farm in those tubes can cause pink eye or other infections another reason you shouldn't share make up!

When in doubt, check the odor and consistency of a product you think might be too old to use. Knowing how long your products will keep for, not only protects your skin, but it's a great way to monitor your buying habits.

Reviews by Jenelle Rose Product reviews and recommendations (more tips, technique and advice) of particular interest to the CD.

Style:

Cross Dressing

The Basics:

Shaving:

Can you suggest a way to help ease the pain of razor burn?? I have it pretty badly on my upper inner thighs!!! :-( OUCH!!! Also, do you know how to avoid it in the first place??? Thanks a ton!

Personally I have had great success with the combination of Gillette's Sensor-Excel razor for women and Gillette's shave gel for women. They have many formulas such as for sensitive skin and soft skin, etc. Others have found King of Shaves and Aveeno shaving cream to be quite good. Stores make a lot of things including a shaving cream that comes highly recommended and they have a good name for themselves.

Stay away from the cheaper products as that, with your skin type, sensitivity, multiple directions of shaving and such are the leading causes of razor burn and bumps. Try a specialized product such as Bikini Zone for in-grown hairs or Tend Skin, which exfoliates. ONLY shave in ONE DIRECTION which is THE DIRECTION OF THE HAIR GROWTH, to avoid in-grown hairs.

Take long slow, light strokes up the leg starting at the top of the foot, continuing up to the thigh, being extra careful around angles and curves such as the knee and back of the leg! It might help to use your other hand that is free to follow the razor up the leg, to determine when it feels smooth or where it needs another pass. Start with one leg at a time, you will find that shaving in the opposite direction will not be needed. Shaving in more than one direction can cause razor burn or likely, in-grown hairs. Use this same procedure on your arm pits and chest.

Be careful to not cut yourself: Always use clean blades, shave in the shower after getting wet and get your to-be shaved areas lathered up, doing one part at a time (one leg, armpit, chest). After getting out of the shower, pat dry, never rub and use a body lotion such as Body Source's Country Vanilla on your freshly shaven areas. You can use a Loufa and scrub the skin before shaving using something like Dove liquid moisturizing cleanser. This speeds the process of getting rid of dead skin cells (exfoliation), thereby giving your skin a healthy glow. Use separate buffs, one for your face and another, more coarse one for your other areas. Stay away from bar soaps as ALL contain a lard-like ingredient that gives them their shape. Regular soaps, including the anti-bacterial kinds can dry your skin and are the worst things for your skin. Always use a moisturizer after cleansing, preferably soon after. For the face use one that has an SPF of 15 or greater, even in winter but do NOT use these around the eyes! Use a special eye cream instead that does NOT include a fragrance or other ingredients that can cause puffiness! The eyes need moisturizers as that is the thinnest part of our skin. Be extra gentle and good to yourself in this area.

Step 1

Wetting the beard

Shower first, or at least wash your face well, to
soften up your whiskers. Never shave cold! Aerosol
creams applied to a dry face do not soften the beard
and therefore make shaving much more
uncomfortable.

Step 2

Lathering up

Brush -- If possible use a shaving brush made from
badger hair. The badger hair holds water in the
brush rather than repelling it, making for a better
lather.

Shaving Cream - A glycerin base shaving cream will
help the razor glide over your skin.

Applying Shaving Cream - The best approach to
apply shaving cream is to use a circular motion
ending in an upward stroke. The upward stroke will
stands your beard up and away from your face
making the shave even closer.

Step 3

Shaving

Regardless of the type of razor chosen, always
shave down and/or across the face -- avoid shaving
up or against the grain. Since a man's beard grows
down, drawing the razor up against the grain will
only result in redness and irritation. Remember to
wash your blade under hot water often -- the cleaner
the blade, the better the results.

Stroke Directions - start with the sides, then the
mustache area, and last, the chin. The chin hairs are
the toughest, so this allows them the most time to
soften under the lather.

Step 4

Closing the pores

Once you have finished shaving, you will need to
apply a facial treatment to close your freshly opened
pores. An Alum Block will do this and eliminate any
small nicks or cuts which occurred during shaving.
Also an After Shave Balm or an After Shave will
serve to close your pores.1``

For the face normally I would just shave out of the shower using a gel and waiting about 3 minutes for my beard to soften. I would then starting with the sides of my face, shave using a Gillette Mach III and a sharp blade use downward strokes, followed by my neck then chin and then mustache area. If I was going for the smoothest shave to wear make up, I would wait to shave as late as possible before going out and following the procedure above, maybe going in more directions such as up and sideways until there is no more stubble. I wouldn’t do it this way normally because it is much harder on the face and you could wind up with skin blotches. I would then, if I were going to use it, apply a moisturizer for my skin type and wait 10 minutes for that to soak in before I applied my foundation.

The shower is the best place to shave the rest of your body. Working from the top down, either in the tub taking a bath or standing up taking a shower after about 10 to 15 minutes your skin is ready for a closer shave. Using a gel, such as those Gillette makes for women or the “King of Shaves”, hold your arm up high and against you’re your back, carefully shave the underarm in downward strokes. Follow this with again downward strokes over your chest, especially carefully around your nipples and on down to the belly area. At the point from your navel to the genitalia, move across your body, instead of downward from the outside inward. Use extreme caution around your genitals if you do that area at all and then proceed to the legs keeping the razor free of hair all the while. Shave with downward strokes again using a gel, one leg at a time taking long strokes. It is especially hard getting the backs of the thigh area and indeed don’t expect just one shave is all that it takes.

Don’t be discouraged, if this is your first shave, it could take 3 separate days of shaves to get it all. Check later to see those hard to get to or easy to miss areas. Shaving an area such as the knee or ankle, you will want to be especially careful bending your leg to shave the knee and stretching your leg (as in the underarm area) works best. Hair grows on your toes as well as the tops of your feet so don’t forget these areas. After you have done a few shaves, for maximum closeness you will shave up the legs and follow with your other hand to sense missed spots. You will get the hang of it eventually; just don’t expect to go out after one shave with smooth skin.

Follow all of your showers now with a body lotion. By the way, just as in washing your face I would recommend a liquid, moisture-rich cleansers for use on your body, not a bar soap. Loufa’s, body buffs, etc, can be used to help exfoliate, that is getting rid of dead skin cells, bringing more fresh skin to the surface. These are not recommended for the face. Instead use an exfoliating cleanser one to three times weekly as part of your twice daily face cleansings.

Use a lotion on you’re your hands, arms, legs and feet nightly, a special skin-tightner type lotion on the face avoiding the eye area and especially good is to use a Vaseline on your feet and cover them with socks overnight. Use lotion on your hands frequently through the day.

Make-Up Presentation by Jenelle Rose

Part two MALE TO FEMALE makeup

Bill Jones, Theatre Arts Department, San Francisco State University {bjones.cra@mailgate.sfsu.edu}

There are a wide variety of makeup materials available. If your skin is beautiful and you don't have to hide a beard, women's cosmetic makeup may be all you need. You will have better luck matching your skin color in a department store; because foundation makeup in a drug store tends to be so heavily packaged you can't tell what color you're buying.

Regular cosmetics tend to be light and sheer. If you want an opaque makeup to even out your skin tone, and don't perspire heavily, I suggest Kryolan Aquacolor makeup. It is a water based pancake type makeup, which comes in a great many beautiful colors. Aquacolor has a matte finish when it dries, but after a few minutes the warmth of the body creates a beautiful soft, natural glow. All of the Kryolan makeup is heavily pigmented, so it will cover beards and dark shadows under the eyes without the use of other cover up products.

I've discovered that many beard cover sticks give you an unnatural orangey look. If you have to cover a beard, minimize roughly textured skin or if you perspire heavily; I strongly recommend Kryolan Cream Stick plus Dermacolour powder. The cream stick is an oil base makeup and comes in a great many colors, so you should be able to accurately match your skin tone. It is opaque enough to cover heavy beard shadow without using a beard cover stick. The Dermacolour powder is pigmented so you need to buy an appropriate shade. It sets the Cream stick so that it lasts through heavy perspiration. Several layers of Cream stick and Dermacolour powder will effectively smooth out acne-scarred skin. If you don't need the waterproof qualities of Dermacolour powder, regular translucent powder will work very well to set the cream stick. To minimize large pores, particularly on the nose, a second coat of foundation and a dusting of powder works very well.

Foundation

No matter what type of foundation you choose, it should match your skin tone as closely as possible. Test the color on your cheek and your neck. You want the makeup to blend down onto your neck without a visible line. Hopefully you will only need a hint of foundation on your chest when you're wearing a low cut dress.

If you are using a water base pancake makeup, it will probably go on easier with a small natural sponge rather than a synthetic one. A natural sponge is only slightly more money and will give a smoother result. Be sure to apply the color with as little water as possible, just use a damp sponge. If you get streaks, let the foundation dry before you try to smooth it out. You will probably find the streaks will disappear as the makeup dries. Pancake makeup doesn't need to be powdered.

If you are using a cream stick makeup, apply it with a piece of synthetic sponge. I use a piece of fake foam rubber (flexible urethane foam), the kind you find in the upholstery section of your fabric store. It's easier to thrown them away than to try to wash them. After applying the foundation lightly and evenly all over your face, you may want to add a bit more to cover your five o'clock shadow. If you are covering a heavily textured skin surface (like acne) you may want to blend cheek contour color into the cream base before powdering. (Powder contour may emphasize the texture.) Now you're ready to powder to set the cream stick. Apply a little extra powder to the moustache area and forehead, because the perspiration is heavier here. Allow the powder to sit on the foundation for a few minutes before brushing off the excess. This is especially true with Dermacolour powder. The instructions suggest waiting ten minutes, before removing excess to achieve the maximum waterproof quality. I find about three minutes is sufficient. A big, soft blush brush is ideal for dusting off excess powder.

Corrective makeup

I don't recommend a lot of heavy corrective makeup to change the shape of your face. If you're being photographed for a formal portrait, then go ahead and sculpt your face; but for everyday, too much corrective work can look artificial. There are a lot of books available to help you decide if you are oval, square or heart shaped. I think it's more important to create a feminine version of whatever shape you happen to be. Some men have a definitely square jawbone. Trying to minimize it with makeup is risky. You may inadvertently emphasize your five o'clock shadow. A soft hairstyle is probably a safer way to underplay the jawbone.

A strong or prominent nose is another trouble spot. In general, don't use corrective makeup on your nose. You may over emphasize it without meaning to. Instead, focus attention on your eyes or mouth. Some subtle work can be done to give yourself beautiful cheek bones, if it's a little bit noticeable it's O K, because it's often obvious on women too.

To sculpt cheekbones, I use Mehron Starblend pancake makeup, dry, as a powder. A dry, clean blush brush will pick up the color and allow you to contour the cheek as easily as brushing on dry rouge. Be careful to never get the cake of Mehron wet or it won't pick up as powder. For Caucasian skin, number 2B brushed on the top of the cheekbone as a highlight, and number 11B brushed on as a lowlight, works beautifully. If your skin is a darker tone adjust the colors accordingly. I like 7C for slightly darker or tanned skin. The highlight color goes on the top of the cheekbone, and should blend up toward the hairline. (If you have a wide face, don't go quite to the hairline.) The lowlight or shadow color goes from the ear toward the center of the face, and should blend out into the foundation subtly. The Mehron powder also works well to emphasize your cleavage. Dust a bit of highlight on the top of the breast and brush a soft curved Y-shape in the cleavage. Keep it subtle.

Rouge

Select rouge that is a soft pinkish shade similar to your foundation color. You can safely dust it on your forehead, chin and cheeks for a healthy glow. If you use a strong raspberry or red shade you may have trouble being subtle. You can soften the effect of rouge by first dipping your brush in translucent powder and then into the rouge. Rouge belongs on the apple of the cheek (where you turn pink after you've been jogging). Be careful to keep rouge away from any part of your face you are trying to minimize. For example, if you have a wide face; don't brush the rouge all the way out to your hairline. Keep it more central, so you won't call attention to the width.

Eyebrows

The shape of your eyebrow is probably the single most important element of your face. Women's eyebrows are usually thinner and more arched than a man's. However a masculine eyebrow can be very beautiful on a feminine face. Look at Brooke Shields. Electrolysis or plucking will allow you to make a major change in the shape of your brow, but clever use of paint can do a lot. Most people need to lift the brow slightly to give it a prettier arch. For the stage you can block out the brow with a variety of materials. For street wear you must be subtler. Lift the peak of the brow with a few strokes of eyebrow pencil, and blur them slightly. You can bleach out a few hairs by painting them with foundation. You can pencil your brows lightly or use a small stiff brush and brown powder to get a soft brow. If you use a pencil, it helps to brush the eyebrow with a toothbrush to blur and soften the pencil. You don't want your eyebrow to look as if it was drawn on with a marking crayon, so be gentle. To determine the length of your eyebrow, draw an imaginary line from the tip of your nose up to the outer corner of your eye and up to the brow. That's where your brow should end. Remember, Eyebrows begin above the inner corner of the eye, and taper off to nothing. They should not be heavy at the outer end.

Eyes

The eyes are the most fun to paint, but also possibly the most difficult to do well. First, avoid brightly colored and frosted eye shadows. I know they're fun, but they can age your eye. Learn to contour your eye with neutrals like taupe, charcoal, brown and off white. The upper eyelash line should be defined with a brush and brown liner or an eyebrow pencil, and lightly smudged with a Q-tip. Even if you are older and don't plan to wear much makeup, you should softly define the eye. To NOT makeup the eye is aging. The lower eyelash line can be dotted with brown and smudged, or defined more strongly with a blurred line. To contour the eye, keep in mind the natural lights and shadows of the eye. There is a highlight under the brow bone under the arch of the brow. The crease above the eyelid is shadowed, and the lid picks up some light and seems lighter. This means the lid can be foundation color, the crease can be darkened slightly, and a bit of highlight added on the brow bone.

If you MUST use color, use color the same value as your foundation, on your eyelid. This is the one spot you might get away with a frosted color. Use a deeper color in the crease (definitely not frosted), but use off white on the brow bone. This combination will seem more natural. For major glamour you can use smokier color on your eyelid. If your eye is aging, and the upper eye is sagging, you have to be careful where you put color; but you can very easily make the eye look gorgeous! Be careful that your brow bone highlight doesn't blend down so far that it highlights the sagging fold of skin. Avoid shadowing toward the nose in the deepest part of the eye. That will sink and age the eye even more. The important thing to remember is to shadow the sagging fold of flesh and keep any frosted colors away from the eye. Frosted color will spotlight the problem. Your safest bet is a dark taupe or charcoal to minimize the fold of flesh. This will give you a normal, pretty eye. If you wish you can vary the look in keeping with current makeup trends; for example, 50's style eyeliner. If you're going to wear false eyelashes, be careful to keep them medium in length. If your false lashes droop at the outer ends, you must glue them ABOVE your natural lash line.

Lips

Keep your lipstick a soft red. Bright fire engine reds can point up problems. If you have a problem with lipstick blurring, try outlining the lip with a lip liner pencil, then filling in with color. Powdering the first coat of lipstick then applying a second coat, will help it to last longer. Most men have thin lips and need to make them appear fuller. Don't hesitate to paint your lips slightly outside your upper and lower lip line. Women have the same problem. But be careful to not overdo it. If your new mouth seems a bit extreme, try increasing the size slowly, a bit at a time over a period of a few weeks, so you can get used to it. Using a softer red will help to keep your lips from looking too showgirl. The type of red you use can be coordinated with your skin tone and your clothing (more peach or more raspberry); have fun playing with lipstick. It’s fun, to mix your own color by using several different lipsticks on top of each other. Try putting a neutral light pink shade on top of a deeper red.

Taping

You may want to tape to get rid of your nasal- labial fold, overhanging eyelid or double chin. However it is not ideal for all daywear. Taping is wonderful on some people. It depends on how elastic your skin is and whether you can place the tape so it will get rid of the fold and not show under the wig. It's important that the wig hide the tape, because it's very difficult to cover tape with makeup so it doesn't show. However, sometimes just a wisp of hair from the wig will cover the tape so you don't have to pull the wig to far onto your face. The easiest way to tape, is to securely pin a stocking cap to cover your hair. I like to be sure there are several pin curls at the front of your hairline. This gives you something to anchor the wig to so it doesn't slip back and allows you to tape onto your head without pulling hair. Johnson & Johnson surgical tape works wonderfully. The more complicated way is to use strips of silk gauze and spirit gum them to your skin, and anchor the other end to the wig cap. Experiment to see which you prefer. They are both susceptible to perspiration, so are better suited to occasional use not all daywear.

Since 1985, "Art & Illusion: A Guide to Crossdressing" has been sold all over the world.

A&I, Volume 1 -- Face & Hair: tells you all about hair & makeup and how to reshape your face with cosmetics to appear more feminine.

A&I, Volume 2 -- Fashion & Style: helps you figure out the proper size and styles of clothing that will flatter your body. It also tells you how to alter your body's shape for that girlish figure. You can't take your computer to the makeup table, but you can take these books that have helped thousands of girls achieve their dreams. Stop by the CDS Bookstand www.cdspub.com and check out the varied selection of available How-To and Self-Help books and videos.

You'll find you need all that stuff (makeup) too <g>. IAE, there are a few discrete ways to find out what makeup you need, how to apply it, and best of all--what'll look good on you. Just visit the Ask Covergirl! Site at http://www.covergirl.com/ there are a lot of other makeup sites on the Internet, but this one seems to provide more information

than some of the others--at least when it comes to figuring out what makeup will look best on you.

There are some other sites you'll want to visit to get some application tips. For example, http://www.best.com/~cdserv/makeup.htm will tell you how to get rid of that blue tinge from your beard. Visit Cosmetic Connection at http://www.kleinman.com/cosmetic/ if you want to learn more about makeup. For example, what a makeup contains and how can you get free samples. This site also has a cosmetic advisor FAQ which you may find useful. The Cosmetic Resources site at http://www.users.wineasy.se/bjornt/world.html is a good place to find links to just about anything you'll need for makeup.

Take care of your skin. Never leave makeup on overnight. You can vary the following sequence somewhat, but do have a plan you follow consistently. Make changes like plucking eyebrows before you start. This is just the way I do it. I am sure others do it differently. Different lighting creates a need for different techniques. This is not the everyday routine, but for those special nights out. It is not meant to be all-inclusive but a basic guideline for beginners.

2. I use a product called Ultimate Hair Away from Victoria Bodyworks; find them using Yahoo. I had the kind of beard that grows fast. I could shave, as close as I could and by the time I was finished with my makeup the ends of whiskers would be poking through the foundation. Ultimate Hair Away is a product designed to slow hair growth.

4. Smear orange lipstick over the "blue" shaded areas of your beard. Orange neutralizes the color blue and will hide the shadow. Use a big fluffy brush and dust the orange lipstick with loose powder. This "sets" the makeup and keeps it from mixing with the next layers.

5. Foundation. This should match the skin tone as closely as possible. I use Max Factor. It comes in a little pump bottle. I put a bit on the tip of my finger and put little spots over my neck, face and forehead. I like a sheer cover. I use a foam wedge dipped in water to smooth the spots of foundation. It helps if you use vertical upward strokes. Work it over the whole face including the lips. When the foundation is smooth and even, your face will be one even tone. You will now "paint a face" on the foundation. I do my eyes first. They are the most difficult and if I mess up, starting over is less of a job. Don't dress till the makeup is on. Sitting in lingerie or a big fluffy bathrobe adds to the experience.

6. Under-eye concealer. Looks like lipstick. If needed for dark circles under the eyes, preferably yellow tone.

7. Eye shadow. There are different fashions and they vary for different eye shapes.

8. Eyeliner. There are pencils; pens or liquid applied with little paintbrushes. I am lousy at eyeliner. I mess up this step more often than all the other steps put together. If you have hints, let me know.

10. Blusher. Application depends on shape of your face. In general, the area covered is from the bottom of the nose, outward of the pupil of the eye and sweeps up toward the temple. Now that everything is in place, blend, blend, blend, blend, blend. Use the little foam wedges. You should not be able to tell where any one of the products stops and the next begins. Use lots of light strokes with the wedge to smooth and even out all the shades of color.

11. Loose powder to match skin tone. Get a big fluffy makeup brush. Dip the brush into the powder then hold it handle down and tap it on the table to shift some of the powder deeper into the fibers. Apply, using a dabbing motion, don't brush across the skin. This step "sets" the make up and will keep it in place.

12. Lip liner pencil, a bit darker than the lipstick you will be using. Changing fashion tastes may change this recommendation. You can play with changing the shape of your lips by application inside or outside of the original lip line.

13. Lipstick. Fill inside of the lip liner border. The book recommends using a small brush to apply it to your lips and not just put it on straight from the stick. I tried the brush a few times. Now I just put it on from the tube. When the lipstick is on, press a single layer tissue on the lips. Then use the loose powder brush to apply powder and set the lipstick. Peel the tissue off and admire your work. Drink through a straw, not from the glass.

14. There are many variations and techniques for "sculpting" the look using light and dark shading. Use a white or light concealer in a T shape, above the eyebrows across the forehead and straight down the nose. Lighten the "Howdy Doody" lines from the nose to the sides of the mouth. Use a little darker eye shadow on the sides of the nose to create a "shadowed" area and make the nose look smaller.

16. Use Noxzema to remove the makeup. Rub it in and it all dissolves and can be washed off. You can do touch up removal using diaper wipes/ wet wipes.

Tools and supplies needed. Good mirror and lighting, good brushes, moisturizer, foundation, eye shadow, eye liner, mascara, blusher, lip liner, lip stick, loose powder and Noxzema. Use this as a basic list. Pressed powder and puff can be used instead of loose powder. I carry pressed powder in my makeup kit in my purse for touch ups during the evening. Also carry lipstick and a little blusher/ eye shadow compact.

This is not the Studio Fix powder foundation I have mentioned in the past, but a full coverage cream makeup that MAC designed for film and TV use. At first I was afraid the finish would be thick and unnatural, but it's actually very easy to use, easy to

control the coverage, and looks like your own skin, not makeup. This product is NOT oil-free (has jojoba oil), but I had no acne problems whatsoever, and was really pleased with the texture on my normal-to-dry skin. This is also the first makeup I've tried that looks better when applied with your fingers than with a sponge. Just a small dab on the areas you want to cover blends easily and has excellent coverage. If you use it under your eyes

for dark circles, just be sure to add a light dusting of loose powder so the makeup doesn't crease. (In case you are wondering, I wear NC15 in the new color scheme.) As an added "bonus", it also has SPF 15 sun protection from titanium dioxide (2%) and octyl ethoxycinnamate (5%).

RuPaul

I soak for a good fifteen minutes before beginning to shave. I then take my loofah sponge and scrub my skin. The skin must be very clean and supple, with every pore exfoliated, every dead skin cell removed before I can begin the process.

Having a Mohawk for years as a teenager, I'm a virtuoso with the disposable razor and I go in a row like a farmer with his crops. From the front to the back, and my sideburns to the nape of my neck. Girl, after that, I lather my chest, stomach, and bikini line and shave it all off. If the goddess is to reveal herself during a photo shoot, she MUST be smooth. Don't forget the eyebrows girl, and remove any leftover stubble.

MAKEUP GIRL!

If you're a performer getting your photos taken, you have to make yourself up in the brightest light possible ok? `cuz those cameras will show EVERYTHING. Have the light coming at you from the top of the mirror just above your head.

Apply a light moisturizer. Now understand this honey.... you wouldn't build a good building without some good foundation. It's the same with your face. SLAP IT ON THICK. You are NOT a real woman. Cake it on honey. I use Mac STUDIO Makeup N7. Not only does it give the full coverage I need, it is totally cruelty free and has NOT been tested on animals--other than men. Be sure to use your right color. Use an expensive sponge girl. Cheap ones crumble.

Cakin' the surface on...

While your makeup is still wet, you can then apply Mac STUDIO makeup N3 (or whatever color is the same tone but a tad lighter) and highlight the areas you want to bring forward like under your eyes, out to your cheekbones, the bridge of your nose....ya know. Do the same with a base that is a tad darker and put it under your neck, under the cheekbones, etc. Contour your nose with this and skinny the appearance -- a' la Michael Jackson ok?

My eyes! My eyes!

Honey, you're eyes are the key to your soul. What your eyes and brows show, your photographer's see. They show every emotion. So do them good. Or you'll be a disaster. I don't want Cher to see me with bad lookin' eyes, so I always make sure my foundation works and then I think, ``Beautiful eyes, glamorous eyes..." Say it to yourself now.... and begin.

Draw your brows in a darker shade than the foundation. Shape them nicely. You want Diva brows honey. Not low and not too high. If you make a mistake, wipe them off and reapply the makeup and start again. If you did this after you'd powdered...girl you'd be up a creek.

Eyebrows are hard. Look at your face the way a makeup artist would. Draw the brows in a nice arch with a cute sharp point on the end. Don't make them round and don't make them pencil-brows. Or you'll end up lookin' like a snaggle-toothed hag, a look I've found useful in the past. But for glamour girl, it doesn’t work. So draw carefully. Translucent powder over it when you're done and they look perfect. `Cuz now you've got your eyes to do

Take some light vanilla eye shadow and put it over the inside of your inner lid and close to the nose on the outer brow. Shadow the outer creases of your eyes, not toward your nose...toward your temples. You want to bring the eyes out. Blend nicely but not too much. Curl your lashes! and mascara them. Apply your liquid eyeliner and THEN apply your false eyelashes. Use a dark tone eyelash adhesive `cuz it dries black. And girl, experiment. Color is the key and the rainbow ain't there for nothin' so use it. Mood...remember moods.

If you've got a question about your eyes or need more information on tuckin' girl...'cuz I ain't givin' that out fo' free online, check out ma' book ``Lettin' it All Hang Out". Click here to find out how to grab a copy.

Lips

Girl. Lips. It's all about the lips. And let me tell you. There are some GREAT lips out there. So be prepared for some fierce competition. The wrong lip color can make or break your look. Kinda like your hair.

First you should look in the mirror and repeat to yourself, ``I have beautiful lips." Whether you've got duck lips, gorilla lips, no lips, or lips the size of Godzilla, you should ALWAYS say this honey. It's imperative. Remember, mood affects everything.

To start your lips, take a brown eyebrow pencil and ``perfect" the lip line, improving on nature's own handiwork by going a little bit over the top, because the top lip on many queens tend to disappear when you smile. Then apply your lipstick. Use a lip brush and even out the color.

Smile Honey!

That's just the start. You should blot with some powder at this point to give the lips a matte finish. Apply a lighter tone to the inside of your lip to bring out the look. You want to look pouty. Like Miss Marilyn or Bardot. It's all about the classics girl.

Whenever you draw your lips or, for that matter, any part of your face, it's a good idea to hold a piece of tissue or makeup resistant paper to your cheek so as not to mess up any color you have already applied. This is great when you're drawing your lips. So pucker up Girla!

If you think the photographer's can't tell you're wearin' a wig, think again honey. Your wig/hair is the ultimate finishing to your Queen-ness. You can have a big wig, you can choose a small wig....but please, choose the right wig. Carefully select the right shape and size for your head. You don't wanna look like Uma Thurman wearin' a Diana Ross wig. Ok?

NEVER put the dress on AFTER the wig. Whether it's an Oldham, Gucci, whatever.... PUT YOUR DRESS ON FIRST GIRL! You don't want to knock that stuff off yo' head after you've spent so much time puttin' it on. Ok? Good. Here we go.

I'm ready for my wig lovely.

A cat without its coat would look pretty freaky, and a peacock without its feathers would look downright ugly. So be careful.

If you can afford it...wait...you MUST buy a lace-front wig. They’re expensive...but any queen is worth it. Lace-front wigs have a transparent mesh that's like netting. It's invisible to the eye and once it's on you can't see the line. To secure it, you put a little glue on the sideburns of your head--although for the glue to stick you have to take off the makeup from those areas first.

Carry your wig around in a nice large case. I use a kick-drum carrying case. It's got tons of room to spare. And remember, style your wig a bit before you put it on. Anything large should be styled first and then retouched once it's on. Girl is ready to go!

You can sure mess up your whole creation by sticking some cheap dress you got from the local 1$ shop across the street all over yourself. But that's not for every 1$ dress of course. Damn, some 1$ dresses can look mighty fine if you work them the right way. The point is...anything can look good if you make it look good.

Choose a dress and accessories that match your look. Are you going for a night on the town look or a summer's day look? Blonde wig? or red wig? `Cuz girl, you wear that green bracelet with that Red wig and purple lipstick. I’ll smack ya myself. Just be sure to choose something clean, gorgeous, and fitting. There's nothing worse than watching a drag queen limp around the room in a Gucci that's a tad too tight. Remember, fashion is supposed to bring out what's already beautiful in ya, not paint it all gross.

And above all dear, love yourself. `Cuz if you don't love yourself, how in the hell you gonna love anyone else? Can I get an amen in here! All right, now run to Saks honey. And spend spend spend! And grab my book too. It's essential in every queen's purse.

Rants and Raves!

I’d like to talk about fashion and make up, my favorite subjects!! I'm going to turn you on to some of my favorite magazines, TV shows and web sites and more. If anyone has anything to add to my list, please e-mail me at jenelle@jenellerose.com.

As you know, GG’s (that’s genetic girls) have all of their lives to develop their fashion sense, style and practice applying their makeup. For cross dressers and especially those getting a very late start, we can use all the help we can get!

Here is the scoop on how to get you up to speed quickly. Soon, you too will have the "look" -and that will be outstanding!

Getting Started

Videos

First off, there is a video I’d like to turn you on to. Found at my local Drug Emporium but probably available at other discount drug stores as well, is Cosmopolitan’s 20-minute makeover. Granted was article was originally written in 1998, so it may nit be available now OTOH, it may. Go check, it's worth it. This video is a very good introduction to technique. There are sections not only for the face but also hair and pumping up its volume. It sells for $10.00 and comes with money-back coupons for other products that more than make up for the price of the tape. Otherwise, run down to your library and ask them to help you find some videos on make up or make over for women and don't shy, show confidence! Another video available is "The Eyes Have it" with Donna Mills and CDS carries others for cross dressers by Joanne Roberts.

Magazines

Found at local grocery markets as well as drug stores are magazines targeted at the youth market, filled with basic information that if you are just starting out, is a treasure trove of great tips and techniques. The models are young and gorgeous. Besides the makeup tips, you will also find many interesting and worthwhile articles on buying clothes, including some tips on buying clothes on a tight budget, mixing and matching things for outfits and lots of other great information. Definitely check these one out as a possible source!

Books

While at the library checking on the videos, if you want to save same money, check out (no pun intended) magazines such as Glamour, Cosmopolitan, Redbook and Mademoiselle. Glamour will have some feature articles concerning some how-to but mostly the magazine follows the supermodel scene with not a lot to offer us directly. Recommended for extra reading only. Cosmo, Vogue, Allure and InStyle are the best for make up and fashion ads as well as advice. Books! Don't forget the library has books on all aspects of our subject-fashion and its many forms, make up, etc.

Cosmopolitan however is packed with a lot of interesting reading, worthy of a subscription. Redbook is strictly (for most of us), a library read. While you will find some good reading inside, there are only a couple of articles worth the time.

Mademoiselle is very interesting. They not only have some outstanding articles, it is interesting to read what girls, that read these things, think of men. Some of the articles they print show various statistics of many things like the ideal waist to hip ratio and how men and women are attracted to each other. Fascinating!

Back at the newsstands, one of my favorites is Allure magazine. Always full of good tips for makeup and fashion, the magazine is a bit skimpy on really good articles on other things but otherwise is at least consistent in the info area. Other magazines that I have seen but have never read but would like to some day, are those such as Top Model and the like. If anyone out there has read this any of others not mentioned here that you like, especially if you recommend any, please let me know!

Some magazines deal specifically with clothing and putting together a wardrobe. One of my favorites in this category is Lucky.

Television

Moving on to television, I would recommend cable TV if you don’t already have it. One might benefit from faster Internet access but my focus here is on fashion so I will stay on that. One of my favorite channels to watch is E! Entertainment Television. Everyday at noon and at various times on the weekend, they have several fashion shows. Two half hour shows, they themselves rotated at random times are on at noon daily. The shows are Model TV, Video Fashion, Fashion Emergency and Fashion File. (Note: these have, for the most part, been moved to the new cable channel "Style", see below). Fashion File has a traveling host who might be in Milan for one segment and in New York for another, covering primarily the runway scene, including the backstage at these shows! There is talk and "quick, on the spot" style interviews on fashion materials, trends and colors. My favorite E! TV show is Model TV, one of E! TV’s own original programs and it is great! They sometimes cover one "supermodel" per half hour. Sometimes it may be an up and coming star, other times one already huge star. People like Karen Mulder, Claudia Shiffer, Helena Christensen, etc. and once in awhile a guy (no names come to mind here) are featured. If you like the fashion scene and you’ve read this far, then you will really like this show. Check it out!

E! TV's other original show called Fashion Emergency features Emmie. Original shows are on at 9:00 AM Mondays and repeat throughout the rest of the week. Lately it has been in the rotation with the other shows already mentioned. They will take usually someone such as the baby girl from Bewitched, Tabatha, now grown up of course or India Allen and give her a full makeover. Hair, clothes, makeup, whatever it takes for that persons’ need to look good for a special occasion they have in mind to do or to attend.

Another show that features make-overs along these lines that is similar to, but involving regular people airs on the Lifetime cable network ("Television for Women"). It airs at about 7:00 PM but is extremely hard to find on any particular day.

Another show about the runway scene and fashion can be found on CNN. I can’t give you exact airtimes, although if you go to their web site, you can not only download their schedule, you can also view on-line video files from their vast archives. They don’t throw anything away. Ever! They have some new technology that they call "Video Select."

Update: 4/17/00: E! Entertainment Television still broadcasts Model TV, Video Fashion, Fashion Emergency and others including a new one, Stylemakers. Most of these air regularly either around 7:00 AM or early afternoon around 1:00 PM, EST, as well as other parts of the day sporadically. The company behind E! also has a whole new cable channel dedicated to style appropriately named, Style.

Internet

Concerning the web, see my article "Discovering Newsgroups" that will be of interest to you. In it, I tell you how to set up "newsgroup readers" to "subscribe" (no charges) to such resources as alt.crossdressing.support and alt.crossdressing.fashion. It's easy! E! has a web site too, located at http://www.eonline.com/

Well I guess I’ve given you enough to keep you busy for a while. I would like to close with one great site. You can browse this site and find such things as "Makeup 101," a 3-part series covering the basics of applying makeup, advice columns and many other interesting articles and FAQ’s mainly dealing in make up (with real girls in mind). A wealth of information is here. You must check it out! Go to http://www.kleinman.com

I hope you enjoyed this article and find it useful as well as entertaining. That was my goal. Till next time, I’ll see you in the trenches!

I have used drugstore cosmetics until now (mostly Revlon), but this week I figured it was time to move up! So, which brand do I look into? I remembered that my ex-girlfriend (one of the few young women I ever met that used to put on FULL makeup) swore by Clinique... she also loved Mac for colors & shades.

Clinique is particularly good if skincare is an issue as well, with good cleansers, foundations and powders. So, I visited their website, which has online ordering. They even have a very simplistic "consultation" set-up where they ask you some skin & colors questions to give you recommendations... It's at http://www.clinique.com

The products are definitely more expensive... generally 2x to 3x the cost of Revlon, Maybelline, etc.

My ex also used to say that Chanel lipstick was the BEST... good color & great lasting power...

MAC makes the best lipsticks (shadows too) because they are so rich in pigments! Prescriptives, Clinique and Lancôme are also great! Anything French, actually is very good.

Better drug store (read bargain) brands include Maybeline, L'Oreal (Lancôme's own "budget" brand) and Jane. I don't like Revlon much except that they are one of a couple that make a wet/dry shadow which I use. I have been happy with an Almay foundation but generally prefer the department store brands. Eye creams, eye make up removers and other such specialties are also Èùœ best from the department stores.

Clinique's cleansers are a bit too harsh for my tastes, burning my eyes. I use Cataphyll, inexpensive and recommended by dermatologists. It's gentle and doesn't have the lard-type ingredients that ALL bar soaps, including Clinique's, which can cause pore-clogging.

Q: Lots of makeup talk here! Have you ever tried Derma-Blend or Cover Mark? I had a friend recommend Derma-Blend to me, but found it was pretty expensive.

Q: Are these products heavier then? Is that the reason "we" use them more so than the lucky GG's (Genetic Girls)?

Q: I have seen the book "Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me," by Paula Begoun. Looking thru it at the store it seemed to be totally for GG's. We must read between the lines, I take it!

The products I mentioned from Clinique and MAC are for GG's, although be aware that many males use these products for "legitimate" reasons as in Television make up, for example.

MAC does offer a 30% discount on their Pro line if you can prove you are buying their product as a "professional" which includes, BTW, a female impersonator who appears on stage as well as make up artists, etc...

These particular recommendations are matt, extra coverage foundations I suggested as alternatives to Derma Blend or theatrical make up as better, lesser-known choices used mainly for beard cover.

The book you mentioned and others that are written for women can be just as easily be applied to us.

I have so many after-work parties this season. How can I look great quickly, without bringing all of my makeup to work?

"There's no need to lug around a ton of makeup or spend a lot of time transforming your day makeup into an evening look," says New York City makeup maestro Paula Dorf. Stash these four holiday products in your desk and follow these simple steps to go from day to play in five minutes flat.

First, freshen up greasy-looking foundation with Sephora Collection Oil Blotting Papers. They remove excess oil and shine from your skin without disturbing your makeup. Next, say goodbye to tired eyes with EyeLite, Paula Dorf's light diffusing camouflage cream that brightens darkness around the eye area for an instant relaxed and refreshed look. Revive your daytime shadow by swiping Paula Dorf Eye Shimmers in Tinsel under your brow to highlight. A great smile will make the look. Dorf created Lipstick Cream in Festive, a glamorous holiday red, to match any skintone. Just swipe on and you're set to go.

How do I dress up my makeup for a holiday office party without going overboard?

Avoid over-the-top makeup in the office. Instead, go for a shimmery makeup look that can be applied at your desk over your daytime look, in a few simple steps:

1. Freshen up your foundation with a creamy compact foundation like Calvin Klein Medium Coverage Foundation - the oil free formulation glides on and does double-duty as concealer.

2. Define your eyes by smudging soft black eyeliner like BeneFit Bad Gal along top and bottom lash lines. Next, get flashy lashes with two coats of Christian Dior's new-for-fall Long'Optic Mascara in Black.

3. Get a golden glow with Urban Decay Cool Shimmer Stick in El Dorado. Apply golden highlights to the top of your cheekbones, under your brow, and on your décolleté - if you dare!

4. Finish the look with a swipe of tinted gloss to balance your dramatic eyes. Urban Decay XXX Shine Lip Gloss in Love Junkie adds a pop of high voltage shine and a hint of burgundy color.

To avoid complicated cleanup from falling eyeshadow, start with your eye makeup, then do your foundation, blush, and lips.

First, apply a cream shadow, across the lid all the way to the eyebrow and along the lower lash line.

Then, with a sponge tipped applicator, press an indigo powder, on top of the cream shadow and blend the outer edges for a soft, diffused effect.

To highlight, sweep a sheer ultraviolet shimmer, just under the eyebrow and below the lower lashline.

Flawless skin is achieved with oil free foundation applied with a sponge for a smooth finish.

My eyeliner smears and leaves me looking like a linebacker. How can I keep it in place?

Start with a shadow base to keep shadows and liners in place. Then choose water resistant eyeliner. If you prefer a softer, more subtle look, mix your favorite eye shadow with Paula Dorf Transformer. This solution instantly turns eye shadow into liquid liner. Just place a few drops into an eye shadow cover, dab a brush into the liquid, glide it along outer edge of the shadow, and then apply the mixture to the lash line.

Rich eye creams contain oils that break-down makeup, so switch to under eye gels like DDF Soothing Eye Gel when you wear makeup and only use eye creams at night.

And remember-any product will stay put if you top it with BeneFit SheLaq, a makeup sealant. Just brush this product over eyeliner, lipstick and brows to laminate the look.

"I like the vibrant eye colors for fall, how do I know which colors are right for me?"

Strong hues can be intimidating, so use your wardrobe as a guide. Let your favorite colors in your closet inspire you and test drive the season’s new looks by selecting shades that look great on you.

Brown eyes look soft and sexy next to rich blues. Green eyes sparkle when dusted with purple shadow. Blue eyes smolder in shades of silver. When in doubt, stick with plum tones - they compliment nearly every eye color and complexion.

If you want to go a bit less dramatic with color, try pairing a vibrant liner with a neutral shadow. Use subtle shimmers like beige on your lids to brighten the eye area and then enhance with a vivacious liner like mauve. Apply powder liners with a small liner brush and blend at the lash line to diffuse the color and soften the look. Finish with mascara in purple.

I have a hard time choosing a shade of foundation. How do I find one that is right for me?

The right foundation balances your skin tone and makes your face come alive. The wrong foundation...well, we all know how unnatural a foundation that's too light or too dark can look.

To find the right foundation for your skin color, first test the base or foundation color by applying a thin line of color to the jaw line. This will allow you to compare color to the skin on the face as well as the neck to avoid any obvious differences. The color should blend perfectly with your skin tone.

As the seasons change, it's a good idea to adjust the color and texture of your foundation accordingly. While your sunscreen will protect your skin from changes in pigmentation, variations in climate may make a new formulation more comfortable. Summer foundations tend to have a sheer texture and are often deeper in tone, while a lighter shade with more complete coverage is often preferred in winter months.

What is the best way to camouflage a blemish without looking like I've piled on a ton of makeup?

First, choose a concealer base that matches your skin tone. Avoid using a color lighter than your skin tone because it will only draw more attention to the problem area. Once you have the right color, apply the concealer by dabbing just a little of the product onto the center of the pimple, then blending it outwards towards the edges and into the skin.

I'm not into heavy makeup, but tinted moisturizers don't offer enough coverage. What can I do?

Depend on layers of sheer foundation, concealer and powder to keep you covered this summer. You don't need to mask the entire surface of your face, apply products only where you need them to ensure the most natural finish.

Neutralize the redness in your skin with a sheer, yellow-based foundation. Apply it to the center of your face and blend outward with your fingers until it disappears.

Next, use a concealer to hide breakouts, sunspots and capillaries that show through the foundation. For a final touch, apply loose powder which contains ingredients that absorb oil and set foundation for just the right finish all day.

If you need a touchup, try blotting papers - they absorb the mid- afternoon "greasies" without disturbing your makeup.

Matte, polished skin is modern again, but you don't have to wear heavy or opaque foundation to get the look.

Try a multi-use foundation. A weightless formula veils your skin with sheer color and minimizes pores, leaving a subtle matte finish. Next, use a clean velvety puff to set the foundation. Instead of using powder, which can look heavy, keep the puff clean and press and roll the puff over the foundation - this will absorb any shine on your skin and set the foundation for all day wear.

I'm melting! I live in a hot, humid area and my makeup disintegrates within hours. Are there long-lasting products that look natural, not heavy?

Sizzle-proof your look and follow these simple steps to minimize makeup meltdown:

Start by controlling the oils that break-down makeup and give you the greasies by priming skin with a sebum-controlling product like Philosophy Never Let Them See You Shine.

Next, opt for long-lasting color like non-transfer cream eye shadow, waterproof liquid liners and waterproof mascara.

For a healthy, heatproof hint of color on cheeks and lips, try a stain like Lorac Sheer Wash.

Top it with BeneFit SheLaq, a makeup sealant. Just brush this product over eyeliner, lipstick and brows to laminate the look.

From kellyfl@aol.com

If you have trouble using eyeliner because the make up inside the liner pencil is too hard and thus it pulls on your eye and doesn't come off well enough onto your lid, try Physician's Formula eyeliner. It is softer and comes off onto your eye easily and without pulling.

From AllisonC@ix.netcom.com

I can finally contribute!! There is a simple trick to help with the pencil. Get a lighter and very quickly move the tip of the pencil through the flame. It will soften it a little and allow for a lot better coverage. I've used this trick for years...

From saf@best.com Wed

Ø Does anyone make liquid eyeliner anymore? I can't draw on my eyelids with those stupid pencils, is there some trick to it?

I always found liquid liner hard to apply. I now use a dark eye shadow and a damp eyeliner brush. I get a nice fine line and can control the depth of the color better than with liquid eyeliner.

I usually use cake liner...and water. My brush is synthetic.... usually white bristle when new...I find natural bristles too soft and wimpy.... unless they're VERY expensive qualities of sable.

One major tip.... if you use a liquid liner...consider taking a clean, damp brush and go over the line to blur and soften it...this is very becoming, and will smooth out irregular lines.... :-)

You can also put on a line of dark eye shadow, (like charcoal), with a small brush...this is softer looking than liquid liner.... and especially good on the lower lid.

Please throw away your mascara or liquid liner after about four months...it breeds bacteria in the closed container...and NEVER loan eye makeup to someone else!

Other Make Up Artist’s Advice:

One of the easiest ways to get a healthy look is with blush -- unfortunately, it is often misused. Here is the correct and easy way to apply blush: First, start with a good quality blush brush. You can accentuate your face and cheeks naturally. Smile and you will see the fleshy part that stands out the most; this is the apple of your checks. This is your starting point for applying your blush. Apply a light layer of blush to the apples of your cheeks and blend up and back toward your hairline.

EYEBROWS

The eyebrows are the most important feature in defining the face. The trick to applying a natural eyebrow shape is using a hard stiff, short brush, and working with colorations instead of pencils. Pencils can be used, but it takes practice and patience to get a natural look.

The first step is tweezing. Start by thinning the eyebrow, and then slowly begin to define the arch. The arch should reach the highest point above the middle of your iris. Thin from that point out. The brows are the frames of your eyes. Don't be afraid to tweeze your eyebrows - BUT NEVER SHAVE YOUR EYEBROWS. Spend your money on a good tweezers.

The general rule of determining the shape of your eyebrow is to hold a pencil vertically alongside your face to the point where the pencil meets your eyebrow. That is the natural starting point. Tweeze the stray hairs between the two starting points. The end point is found by angling the pencil past the outer corner of your eye. Remove stray hairs beyond that spot, and from below your natural arch.

The shape and grooming of your eyebrows will make your eyes look bigger and open up your face more naturally then wearing a lot of makeup. Be careful, as heavy brows will overpower your face. Shape your eyebrows by tweezing the hairs from underneath, not from above.

EYESHADOW

Rule # 1 about eye shadow; when you look at a women's face, you see her eyes not her eye shadow. The general rule is that light shades, bring out your eyes, darker shades give them dimension. If you have small eyes and want to give the impression of larger eyes, you want to stay with lighter shades. If you have large eyes or protruding eyes, you would want to use darker shades. To prevent shadow from creasing, put foundation on your lids first, and then powder. This gives you a clean canvas for your colorations

The first step of applying eye shadow is to apply a light color over your entire eyelid from lash line to brow. Use a large flat eye shadow brush. Always use good quality brushes.

The second step is to apply a medium shadow color on your lower lid from lash line to the crease of your eye. Use a fluff brush.

The third step is to use your darkest color as a liner and apply along your lash line. To insure shadow will not flake, dampen your eyeliner brush before applying shadow. This will make it last longer.

Once your foundation is on, gradually apply lighter shades first, slowly working up to your final color. An important fact to remember is, use colors that blend together naturally. It's not where you place the colors: it's that they work together and blend together invisibly.

GENERAL TIPS

1. Be careful with shimmery products, especially on your eyes; they tend to collect in creases.

2. If you have large and open eyes, don’t use loud or bright colors that will over emphasize the fullness. You want them to be soft and keep a person’s attention.

3. On deep-set eyes, you should use shadow colors that are on the light side of the color spectrum.

5. Don’t test foundation or concealer color on your hand. Match it to the skin on your face and neck.

7. If you have sallow skin, pick a foundation that disappears on your face. To counteract your skin tone choose a pink or rosy blush.

8. If your mascara thickens when it reaches the end of the tube, place tube in warm water. That will help make the mascara thinner.

9. Don’t pump your mascara wand into the mascara container. This pushes air in the container and makes the mascara dry out faster. Gently insert the wand, turn two or three times, then remove and apply to lashes

12. If you have problems under the eye such as dark circles, bags, uneven skin tones, wrinkled skin, etc…. these problems will become more obvious if you apply mascara to the bottom lashes.

13. Even if you do not use foundation or concealer a powder will give the skin a matte finished appearance.

14. Powder makes things stay in place whether it is cream based products that move around or foundations, pencils or concealers.

16. Powder stops shine. Don’t over powder; it is healthy to have some sheen.

17. Before applying powder make sure there are no lines or creases. Once you powder, it will stay put.

18. If your face is very moist, blot first gently with a tissue, otherwise the powder will clump.

19. Put a light layer of powder under the eyes before applying eye shadow. If color falls when applying color, it can be gently whisked away after you have finished your application.

20. Too much color? Dust on a layer of loose powder or pressed powder to take off the edge.

21. Don’t worry about matching your lip color to your blush; just keep it in the same color family.

24. Avoid true red shades if your face is blotchy, irritated or ruddy. Your lips will draw attention to your skin.

25. A great way to organize your lipsticks or use up the end of your lipstick is to dig out or cut off a chunk of lip color and place it in a lipstick palette case.

27. To enhance a pout, dab a silver lip-gloss onto the center of your lower lip.

28. If lip liner is too dark tone it down with a small amount of foundation then reapply lip liner.

29. Vitamin E oil gives your lips a topcoat plus seals in color. This also creates instant shine and helps to protect sensitive areas.

30. To prevent lipstick from getting on your teeth, put your finger in your mouth and close your lips-when you withdraw your finger it will remove excess color.

33. If you are thinking of lightening your brows, try colored mascara first to see what they would look like.

34. If you want your eyebrows to stay in place, put clear mascara on them or a little hairspray on an eyebrow groomer and brush to desired shape.

35. Concealer doesn’t have to be worn with any makeup or powder. Sometimes all you need is a little concealer and something on your lips. Make sure your concealer is one or two shades lighter then your skin. Women insist on using the lightest concealer. Concealer should be applied as sparingly as possible. You don’t want it to be cakey or thick.

New Pink

New Pink Face Chart

Foundation: Prime the skin with a moisturizer according to your skin's needs. Use Concealer Brush to apply Foundation Stick one shade lighter than your skin tone and if you need more coverage use Professional Concealer under the eyes and to any uneven areas of the face.

Follow with your skin tone correct shade of Moisturizing Foundation for a sheer, dewy complexion.

Blush: Using your fingers, smile and apply Sand Pink Cream Blush Stick across the apples of the cheeks and back towards the hairline, then blend down to soften the edges (for darker skin tones, use Soft Plum Cream Blush Stick).

Set foundation with a light dusting of Loose Face Powder using the Powder Puff on the forehead, chin and nose, avoiding the cheeks.

Brows: Using the Eye Brow Brush and a shadow the same tone as your hair color, start at the inner corner following the natural shape of your brow to create an arch. Use light, feathering strokes and soften color with Powder Puff if necessary.

Eyes: Begin with a sweep of White Eye Shadow across the entire lid and up to the brow bone using the Eye Shader Brush (for darker skin tones, use Shell Eye Shadow).

Using the Eye Shadow Brush apply Grey Eye Shadow across the lid from the lashes 3/4 of the way up past the crease. Follow with the Eye Liner Brush (damp), applying a soft line of Slate Eye Shadow close to the lash line (for darker complexions use Charcoal Eye Shadow). Finish with one coat of Black Thickening Mascara.

Lips: Apply Pink Berry Lip Stain or Pink Lip Color and line with either Nude or Pink Lip Pencil . Top with a touch of Petal Pink Lip Gloss.

For a richer look, mix Pink and Chocolate Lip Color topped with White Lip Gloss.

Nails: Apply Pink Sheer Nail Wash.

Tip: Customize your lip color by experimenting with various lip pencils. Using Pink, Nude, Raisin or Chocolate Lip Pencil you can brighten any lip.

Golden Glow

Golden Glow Face Chart

Foundation: Prime the skin with Face Lotion or Hydrating Face Cream according to your skin's needs.. Use Concealer Brush to apply Foundation Stick one shade lighter than your skin tone or, if necessary, Professional Concealer under the eyes and to any uneven areas of the face.

Follow with your skin tone correct shade of appropriate foundation to even out the complexion. Set foundation with a light dusting of Loose Face Powder using Powder Puff. Brush off any excess using Powder Brush.

Brows: Using Eye Brow Brush and a shadow that is the same tone as your hair color, start at the inner corner following the natural shape of your brow to create an arch. Use light, feathering strokes and soften color with Powder Puff if necessary.

Eyes: Begin with a sweep of Bone Eye Shadow across the entire lid and up to the brow bone using the Eye Shader Brush (for darker skin tones, use Banana Shadow).

Using Eye Shadow Brush apply Banana Eye Shadow across the lid from the lashes 3/4 of the way up past the crease (for darker complexions, apply Toast Eye Shadow).

Using Contour Brush apply Cedar Eye Shadow above the crease and under the brow bone and blend inward. Use Blender Brush to soften the contour.

Using Eye Definer Brush apply Cedar Eye Shadow above the crease and under the brow bone and blend inward. Use Blender Brush to soften the contour.

Using Eye Definer Brush apply a line or Rich Brown Eye Shadow around the entire eye close to the lash line (for darker complexions use Mahogany Eye Shadow). Make sure to tap brush on the back of the hand for a soft smudgy line. Finish with one coat of Dark Brown Thickening Mascara. Option: Apply a touch of Pale Yellow Shimmer Eye Shadow on the lid or brow bone using your index finger.

Blush: Using the Bronzer Brush, smile and apply light Bronzing Powder across the apples of the cheeks and back towards the hairline. Blend down to soften the edges. For a pop of color, follow with Apricot Blush applied to the apple of the cheek (for darker skin tones use Medium or Dark Bronzing Powder followed by Apricot Blush).

Lips: Apply Garnet Lip Shimmer lined with Cola Lip Pencil. Honey Lip Gloss can be layered on top to give the lips a fabulous glow. Option: Use Malt Lip Shimmer lined Chocolate Lip Pencil layered with Honey Lip Gloss.

Nails: Layer Brown Shimmer Nail Wash over Brown Sheer Nail Wash.

Tip: For an evening face line the lips with Red or Chocolate Lip Pencil.

Wide-Set Eyes

Wide-Set Eyes...are more than one eye-length apart.

Your Goal: Make your eyes look closer together by emphasizing
the inner third of the eye.

Line: Starting at the inner corners, line the eye completely, top and bottom.

Accent: Apply light shade on the outer 2/3 of the lid, lashes to browbone, brushing towards the outer corners.

Define: Sweep your deep color on the inside third of the lid, brushing towards the inner corner of eyes. Shadow from lashes to just below the browbone. Blend edges into the light shade to get a soft gradation of color.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Center a little highlighter just under the brow in the middle of the eye.

Brows & Lashes: Accent color a little heavier at the beginning of brows. Don't extend brow color beyond your natural line. Apply lashcolor evenly on upper and lower lashes, with an extra coat or two on the lashes closest to the inner corner of the eye.

Deep-Set Eyes

Deep-Set Eyes ... are recessed or shadowed by a prominent brow bone. Lids may be hidden and the eyebrows appear close to the eyes.

Your Goal: Make the eyes look more open, less recessed.

Line: Using a fine line, outline upper and lower lids evenly.

Accent: Sweep light color over the entire lid, lashes to brows.

Define: Stroke your deep shade just ABOVE (not in) the eye's natural crease. Blend lightly at the edges to soften. This brings the lid portion 'forward' optically.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Brush a little highlighter in and along the lid crease. Do not blend.

Brows & Lashes: Raise the plane of the brow line by skimming brow color lightly along the tops of brows. Since pale brows make eyes look even more recessed, select brow color a shade or two darker than your natural tone. Mascara top and bottom lashes lavishly.

Prominent ("Bette Davis") Eyes

Prominent Eyes ...are large and may appear to bulge, with prominent upper lids.

Your Goal: Bring the eyes in a little and minimize the top lids.

Line: Line upper and lower lids, with a slightly wider band of liner along the lashes of the lower lid.

Accent: Sweep light shadow horizontally across the browbone to take the focus off the lid area.

Define: Sweep a horizontal band of deep shadow across the whole lid, extending from the inner corner to just beyond the outer edge of the eye. This subtly elongates and minimizes prominent lids.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Add a dot of highlighter below the arch of the brow.

Brows & Lashes: Emphasize the highest point of the brow to counteract the roundness of the eye shape. Lightly mascara top lashes, concentrating more color on lower lashes.

Round Eyes

Round Eyes ....are shaped almost perfectly oval, not deep-set or overly prominent.

Your Goal: To give eyes more elongation.

Line: Outline both lids evenly, top and bottom, extending eyeliner just beyond the outer corners.

Accent: Focus light color on the outer section of the browbone, brushing outward to elongate the eye. Cover area from browline to lid crease.

Define: Concentrate deep shade at the edge of the eyes, extending color out beyond the eye to elongate.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Overlay a little highlighter on the highest edge of the browbone.

Eye Tips!

Tip! Keep pencil eyeliner from smudging by going over the line with matching powder eyeshadow.

Tip! Another way to line your eyes: Use your favorite deep- toned eyeshadow, wet or dry, with an eyeliner brush.

Tip! Use a white pencil to line the inner edge of the eye to make whites -and eyes-look, brighter and bigger; and to hide any redness.

Tip! Keep a magnifying mirror nearby to check your work.

Tip! Shadow won't stay? Powder lids before you apply your colors.

Tip! Apply an Eye Base first if color settles into crepey areas or lines.

Tip! Less is more! It's easier to build color up layer by layer than to erase too much.

Tip! Clean up slips and smudges as you work with q-tips moistened in eye makeup remover.

Brows & Lashes: Extend the outside edges of the brows. Creating an arch will also make the eye look less round. Concentrate mascara on the top lashes, especially on the outer corners of the eyes.

Down-Slanting Eyes

Down-slanting eyes...are eyes that seem to droop downward at the outer edges.

Your Goal: "Lift" the outside edges for a livelier look.

Line: Line upper and lower lids. On the lower lid only, slant the liner upward, extending a bit beyond the outside corner of the eye

Accent: Brush light shade along the browbone, concentrating most
Of the color on the outer edges and slanting upward.

Define: Apply deep color to the outer third of the lid, from lashes to crease. Stroke upward at the outer edge to create a lifting effect.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Add a touch of highlighter to the highest point of the browbone.

Brows & Lashes: Accent (or create) a gentle arch to give the brow a slight upslant. Focus most of your lashcolor on the upper lashes, especially at the outside corners.

Hooded Eyes

Hooded Eyes ...are eyes with sagging lids and folds of skin around them.

Your Goal: To minimize the hooded effect.

Line: Use a fine line to outline the lids, upper and lower.

Accent: Sweep light color on the highest point of the browbone,
above the crease.

Define: Smooth deep color horizontally over hooded area, (slightly
above the crease of the eyelid).

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Overlay highlight over the browbone.

Brows & Lashes: Shape brows into an arch to "lift' the eye further.
Concentrate most of your mascara on upper and lower lashes from
inner corner to the middle of the eye.

Small Eyes

Small Eyes...are smaller than average, or when compared to the rest of
your features.

Your Goal: Make eyes look larger.

Line: Use a fine line to outline the entire eye. Use a light to medium shade of eyeliner
To avoid "closing" in the eye and making it look even smaller.

Accent: Brush a light shade over the entire lid from lashes to browbone to "open" the entire eye.

Define: Stroke deep shade horizontally, starting from the inner corner, along the lid crease. Extend color slightly past the outer eye corner to widen.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Stroke highlighter under the browline, blending into your light color.

Brows & Lashes: Brush brows up and extend the line of the brows slightly past the eye. Thin brows make eyes look larger. Apply mascara generously on top lashes and lightly on lower lashes.

Asian Eyes

Asian Eyes....are almond-shaped with little or no natural crease in the lid.

Your Goal: Create contrast between eye, lid and browbone.

Line: Line upper and lower lids, keeping line close to lashes.

Accent: Bring out the browbone with your light shade.

Define: Create the effect of a crease in the lid, by starting your deep color
at the inside corner of the eye and drawing it horizontally midway between the lash
line and the brow bone. Blend to avoid an obvious 'stripe' of shadow.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Add highlight on the outer third of browbone.

Brows & Lashes: Giving the brow a slightly arched shape 'opens' the eye. If eyes are small, also extend the edges of browline. Apply mascara generously to upper and lower lashes.

1. Brush brows upward. Carefully trim any excess hair above the top of your natural arch. Be careful not to take off too much at the ends or you'll have brow "bald" spots.

2. Look closely at the shape. Your brow should begin above your tear duct, peak at the outer edge of your iris and end at the outer corner of your eye. "Many women make the mistake of taking off too much at the outer corners," says Weston. "This slants the brows upward and makes the person look perpetually angry." They should be level or horizontal at both ends.

3. Prep your skin: Put some astringent on a cotton ball and wipe it across your nose, forehead, cheeks and behind your ears.

4. Hold a pencil in line with the outer side of your iris and note where the peak of your arch naturally occurs. From the arch to the outer corner of the eye, your brow should fall in a straight or slightly curved line, depending on the look you're trying to achieve.

5. Hold the tweezers at a 45-degree angle and pluck the stray hairs below the brow line. Pull in the direction of the hair growth, or you may end up breaking the hair mid-shaft. Follow your natural brow shape — not the trends. It's very difficult to let your brows grow back into their natural shape after you've plucked them to death trying to achieve a particular look.

6. Fill in sparse areas with a freshly sharpened brow pencil. Use light, quick strokes to draw in hair. Brow powder will give thin brows overall definition and is great for a more natural look. Using a brow brush, sweep some powder up and outward over the brows. If you're a brow novice, a tinted brow gel is a foolproof way to keep brows in place. Lightly coat the brows using upward and outward strokes. Wipe off any excess and allow it to set.

Waxing vs. Tweezing
While both methods can produce beautifully shaped brows, waxing is best left to the professionals. "One wrong drop of wax and you can take off half of an eyebrow," warns Weston. "And it may not grow back properly." Waxing is also not advised for women who have sensitive skin, sunburn or use Retin-A and other prescription creams.

That being said, if you've never touched your brows, it may be worth your while to invest in a visit to the salon for a consultation and preliminary waxing. Once the aesthetician has shaped your brows, you will be able to maintain them at home.

Well-groomed brows are the basis of any great face. Find out what to do with the other hair on your head in Fall Hair Trends. Match your sleek look with great style from First Call for Fall.

Recommendations:

From Beyond Beauty

By Jane Pratt

Use natural clay masks once/week=pull out toxins, oil and impurities (Natural kaolin=best). Queen Helene (“The Cocktail Facial-$4.)

Drinks lots of water, fruits and vegetables (esp. greens) Avoid sugar and fried foods. Alcohol, smoking and soda are bad too.

Liner: dark gray, brown, black, dark blue and dark green. Dark matte eye shadow applied with sponge-tip applicator. MAC, Chanel, Lancôme. Liner pens; for darker look apply with small thin flat brushes. Not too much on lower-looks heavy and dated. Inside lower lid is hip-blend with sponge-tip applicator into lower lash line.

Mascara-Brown is more modern, curved brushes are best. Waterproof is harder to get off-use only if needed. Maybelline two coats to upper lashes, extra to outer=cat-eye effect.

Blush: keep it simple and don’t over do it, wear a little. Balances face between lips and face. Bronze, copper or pinky. Chanel Tempting beige=best color ever! MAC shades for both shadow and blush. Use natural-hair brush or cotton puff-not synthetic cotton balls or pads, only cotton. Apply to apples of cheeks and then outwards, also temples and forehead for color and balance. Cream blush is easy to apply with sponge. Blend

Lips: need color and moisture. Find one or two and stay with those. Never match to outfit. Stay away from super matte/dark browns. Try light formulas-sheers, frost and shimmers; pearl shades-bronze, soft lavender, rose and cherry for a softer effect. Kiehl’s Golden Berry. Go darker or brighter than natural color. Darker=burgundy, wine, rose-brown; brighter-cherry or red, well blended. Let natural lip color show through. Use lip liner to build up thinner lips, blend inward. MAC (Spice & Nutmeg), Chanel (Nude), Max Factor (Nude).

The Brushes of the Trade


All pictured brushes are provided courtesy of PRESCRIPTIVES		Foundation Brush Tip: Dot product onto face and brush to blend, or pour product into hand and then brush on face. Use dry to apply highlighter to cheeks.	Buff Brush Tip: With edge of brush, use one shade deeper than skinone to contour and shape. Next, blend with flat surface in a circular motion to soften and even out color.

Cheek Brush Tip: For a natural "Sun-Kissed" look, dip cheek brush in correct level of loose powder, Dip it into cheek color and apply. This guarantees a soft, sheer look. Apply to apple of cheeks and across nose, chin and forehead.	Powder Brush Tip: After applying foundation, use brush to apply a light dusting of powder. Then, use it again to remove any excess. When the face is completely made up (Eyes, Lips, and Cheeks) Use the brush to blend it all together - Seamlessly.	Soft Shadow Brush Tip: Using a light color eye shadow sweep across eyelid for an instant eye-opening effect. Can also be used to highlight cheeks, nose area and underneath mouth.	Eye Shaper Brush Tip: Use eye shaper brush to apply darker shades in the corner of the eyes. Next, with the edge of the brush, smooth on the same shades very close to the lashes to create a smoky effect.

Eyelining Brush Tip: First dip the brush in powder eyeshadow and shake off any excess. Then, use the tip to create definition by brushing along the edge of the lashes.	Fine Lining Brush Tip: Perfect for wetting eyeshadows to create a liquid-like eyeliner. Divide the palette in half - one side for wet application, the other side for dry. Use as a lip defining brush to create a very dramatic mouth.	Eyeshadow Brush Tip: Dust brush in your powder eyeshadow and apply. Use lighter shades all over to highlight. Use darker shades along browbone to accent and contour.	Lip Brush Tip: The lip brush is perfect for smooth, even application. Apply lip coloring pencil first to lip line, Then use the brush to fill in lips with a favorite complementary lipstick shade. Blot, reapply for longest wear.

Make-Up Presentation by Jenelle Rose 9/06/2000

Makeover

Beauty Essentials

Glossary

Concealer - dab on dark circles, broken capillaries, blemishes, or anything you want to hide

Loose Powder - apply with a big, fluffy brush to give a smooth finish to your skin without the heavy look of foundation

Blush - apply lightly to the apples of your cheeks to give you a bit of natural color; skip this step if you are naturally rose-y

You have never, or hardly ever, used make-up products. You're concerned about your appearance, but never quite know how to make the most of your natural beauty. You don't dare experiment too much because you're frightened the result might not be exactly what you had in mind! We think you'll be interested by what we've got to say...
Let us guide you towards your first, real make-up successes. As Fred Farrugia once said:

"Make-up should be a game, it should be fun". Experiment, start over, but above all, enjoy yourself!

Under-eyes circles? Blemishes? Skin discoloration? Broken capillaries? Shiny skin? Don't let a few imperfections here and there get you down! Even the super models get them sometimes - they just know how to hide them!
And there you are, all made up. No one will notice the make-up, but everybody will suddenly wonder why it is that you're looking so good. That's the magic of make-up with natural, 'built-in' success!

Tonight, you're going to be the most attractive woman out there!
You've decided to really go for a total transformation; a look like you might see around the nightclubs. Have fun and relish the transformation, because above all, make-up should be something to enjoy.

A final check in the mirror...and Cinderella shall go to the ball! This is but the beginning of your voyage of make-up discovery!

Q: I keep hearing about alpha hydroxy acids, but I feel clueless!
What are they and what do they do to my skin?

A: Alpha hydroxy acid, or AHA, is a general term used to describe a variety of skin-safe acids, like glycolic (derived from sugar cane), malic (derived from apples) and lactic (derived from milk), which exfoliate your skin chemically rather than manually (like with a grainy scrub or washcloth). AHAs slough off the dead skin cells by breaking up the chemical bonds they have with the surface of your skin.

What can this exfoliation do for your skin? It is actually great for just about every skin type because it helps eliminate the build-up of dead cells that can clog your pores and cause blemishes, and it can make your skin replace old, damaged cells with new, fresher ones faster. With continued use, an AHA can make fine lines soften, improve your skin's overall texture and color, and reduce the number
and severity of breakouts.
Unfortunately, not all AHAs are created equally, but you don't have to pay $50 or $75 for a fancy department store brand to see results; many of the inexpensive drugstore brands are actually more effective. When shopping for an AHA product, here are a few things to keep in mind:

1. Make sure the AHA you choose has at least one of the well known, proven AHA ingredients, like glycolic, lactic, malic, or even tartaric (from red wine) acid. Products labeled with only "miscellaneous fruit acids" have not been proven to work as effectively, although they can sound persuasive from a "natural versus chemical" standpoint.

2. AHAs come in lotions, creams, and serums/gels, so choose the one that best suits your skin type. Lotions are great for most any skin type, creams are for drier skin, and serums or gels work well for someone with oily or acne-prone skin.

3. AHAs can make your skin more sensitive and vulnerable to sun damage, so be sure to use them in conjunction with a daily sunscreen that has at least SPF 15 broad spectrum protection.

4. AHAs can cause some irritation, even if you aren't usually sensitive, so stick to a "less is more" philosophy. If you are just starting with an AHA, use a low percentage (4-5% concentration), gentle product only once a day, or once every other day. If your skin reacts well to it, consider increasing to daily morning and night use.

Mild stinging when you first apply an AHA is normal, but it should subside after a minute or two. Continued stinging is not considered normal, so you should immediately stop using any product that irritates your skin. If you try using it again in smaller amounts or less frequently and it still causes a problem, don't be afraid to return it to the store for a refund.

Here are a few brands to consider:

o Alpha Hydrox 5% lotion for sensitive skin, 8% lotion, or 10%
enhanced oil-free gel (glycolic acid)
o Pond's Age Defying Complex (8% glycolic acid)
o Avon Anew All-in-One Perfecting Complex (4% glycolic) or
All-in-One Intensive Complex (8% glycolic)
o Circle of Beauty All Even AHA serum (8% lactic acid)
o Neutrogena Healthy Skin Face Lotion (8% glycolic acid)
o Philosophy Hope in a Jar (lactic acid)
o BeautiControl Regeneration Gold (lactic and tartaric acids)

Q: When is it best to apply a clarifying mask? Before or after cleansing? Moisturizing?
A: Doing a mini-facial at home is a great treat for your skin, and for yourself.
Whether your skin needs purifying, hydrating, or soothing, always start with clean skin. Use a mild, nondrying cleanser, rinse thoroughly, and pat dry. Apply your mask of choice following the product instructions. When the mask is "done", remove it gently, usually with a warm washcloth (unless it's a peel-off variety), and splash your skin thoroughly with lukewarm to cool water. Follow up with your favorite toner or freshener, and then apply your moisturizer or night treatment.
It's that easy! For normal skin, I recommend a mask once a week. For oily skin, two to three times a week is a great way to keep oil and breakouts at bay. If you have dry skin, a hydrating mask once a week can really help, but keep the deep cleansing varieties for once-a-month treatments.

Q: Is there a logical way to apply makeup? What should I apply first and last? - Pat L.
A: Although there are variations to applying things like lipstick and eye shadow, putting on basic makeup like foundation and concealer are as easy as 1-2-3!
Always start with a clean, moisturized face. If you wear foundation, you'll apply this first, either all over your face or just in the spots you need it - whichever method you prefer. I like to apply foundation all over so my skin looks as even as it can. Note: if you use a powder-based, two-in-one style foundation like MAC Studio Fix, Stila Illuminating Powder, Aveda Dual Base minus Oil, or Cover Girl Simply Powder, you can skip right to your color cosmetics after applying your foundation. You don't need extra concealer or powder.
Your second step, if you have any areas that weren't covered by your foundation and need extra attention, like dark undereye circles, blemishes, red spots, or broken capillaries, is where concealer comes in. Apply it with your fingers, a clean sponge, or a makeup brush in gentle, dabbing strokes, then tap carefully with your fingertip around the edges to blend. You can also apply concealer to your eyelids for a really smooth look. It will even out any blotchy skin tone and will help your eye shadow stay on longer.
The third step after foundation and concealer is powder. Even dry skin can benefit from the right powder because it sets your makeup for longer wear throughout the day. I like loose powder better than pressed because the finish is lighter. Apply it lightly with a large powder brush, making sure to dust a little under your eyes to set your concealer (helps prevent creasing).
With your basic makeup finished, the rest is really up to your own preference. Here are a few guidelines: If you use eye makeup, I recommend you apply your shadows first, then liner, then mascara. The mascara will seal in any eye shadow that falls on your lashes and actually make them look thicker.
• Apply your blush after foundation and eye makeup so you can adjust the intensity of the color to suit the rest of your face.
• Lip liner can come either before or after lipstick depending on your needs. If you like having an outline to fill in, apply liner first and then lipstick - just make sure to blend the edges with a lip brush or cotton swab so you don't have an obvious line. If you feel confident with applying lipstick, I recommend putting your lipstick on first, then liner. I find the colors last longer this way and it tends to look more polished.

Q: What is the best sequence for applying my base make-up?
A: Ask five makeup artists what the best order is to apply your makeup, and you'll probably get five different answers. We all have our own opinions on how to make you look you best. Personally, I think my method is simple, fast, and you'll still look like you when you're done! Here are my easy steps:
1. Start with a clean, moisturized face.
2. Apply your favorite foundation in a shade that matches your skin color exactly. Blend multiple shades together if necessary to get a perfect match. Foundation acts as the canvas for everything else, so apply a thin, even layer by blending thoroughly and carefully. If you can see a difference between the color of your face and the color of your neck, you are using the wrong shade.
If you are happy with the tone of your skin and you don't think you need foundation, skip this step.
3. After you've applied your foundation, or if you don't need foundation, if you have any blemishes, dark under-eye circles, birthmarks, scars, or anything else that you'd like to cover with makeup, use a concealer. Concealers come in a variety of forms, from stick to cream to pencil. For under eye circles, choose a creamy stick or medium weight cream that will look smooth without creasing or caking under your eyes. I like Bobbi Brown's foundation stick, Stila's eye concealer, or Revlon New Complexion oil-free the best. You can also use a stick or cream for blemishes as long as the formula you choose doesn't make the pimple worse. Longwearing formulas like Almay Amazing Lasting and Maybelline Great Wear also work well on blemishes. For birthmarks, scars, or anything that needs full coverage, a thick cream concealer is your best bet. These take more work and more patience to apply and blend, but it's worth it. I like BeneFit Boi-ing!, Prestige Extreme Cover, and Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage. Apply your concealer either with a clean finger or a small, clean makeup brush. Apply with a gentle, tapping motion, patting the concealer into place, then carefully smooth and blend the edges so they aren't noticeable. Do not rub the concealer in, or you'll rub it right off and ruin the rest of your makeup.
4. To complete your "canvas", you need powder. Choose a formula that suits your skin type, and apply a thin layer with a big, soft powder brush. Powder is very important because it locks in your foundation and concealer for longer, better wear. After I've dusted a thin layer all over my face, I like to apply a small amount of loose powder with the tip of a clean finger to any blemishes that I've applied concealer, on my eye lids, and under my eyes to lock in the concealer (don't do this if you have a lot of wrinkles, or the powder will accentuate them). Use your powder brush to dust off any excess.

Q: The choices in foundation are so overwhelming! What are some of your favorites?
A: Foundation is one of the most important steps in your makeup routine. It can make your skin look its best, even if you're having a less-than-perfect skin day. Whether you like sheer, medium, or full coverage, there are definitely plenty of choices for everyone's tastes. Of all the brands and formulas to choose from, here are my foundation favorites in three main categories: Liquid, Powder, and Stick.
Liquids
Tired of thick, cake-y makeup that makes you feel like a circus clown? Thanks to advanced technology and a wider selection of colors, today's foundations can make your skin look fresher and more radiant than ever before. The color selections are better than ever, too, with more choices in light and dark tones as well as more yellow-based colors. For any skin type, these are the three I've found are the best of the new liquids:
1. Lorac Oil-Free (for normal to oily skin) or Satin (for drier skin or a dewy finish) Makeup
2. Maybelline True Illusion
3. 5S Base Color SPF 12 (5S is a spin-off line from Shiseido)
Powder and Cream-to-Powder
Today's impressive selection of powder and cream-to-powder foundations are a great alternative to liquid. They give a smooth, even finish in a few strokes, and they are totally portable for easy touch-ups. My favorites are:
1. Prescriptives Photochrome Light Adjusting Compact Makeup SPF 15
2. Stila Illuminating Powder Foundation SPF 12
3. Shiseido Liquid Compact Makeup SPF 15
4. Vincent Longo Water Canvas
5. Revlon New Complexion One-Step Makeup
Stick
For those of us who like quick, simplified makeup, stick foundations are worth considering, especially for drier skin. They are easy to apply and can be used all over, or just as concealer for dark circles, on eyelids as eye shadow base - wherever!
1. Garden Botanika Stick Foundation
2. Estee Lauder Minute Makeup
3. Bobbi Brown Foundation Stick
Find Your Best Color
1 Test foundation on your cheek (if you're department-store shopping) to find the one that most closely resembles your skin tone. If you're in a drugstore, stand as close to a window as you can and match the bottle color to your cheek.
2 Always go for yellow-based foundations (those that brighten skin, rather than making it look sallow). Why? Yellow-based foundations neutralize blue and red tones and blend beautifully into every skin color (including African-American and Asian).
3 Stick with yellow-based concealer that is one shade lighter than your skin (if it blends perfectly with your skin, the way foundation should, it won't cover anything).
4 Set your makeup with translucent or colored powder that matches your foundation. Beware: Not all-translucent powder is colorless.

Q: I'm looking for a good oil-free foundation... Any suggestions? - Kim S.
Q: What exactly is the purpose of stick foundation? Is it just to be used as concealer or can you use it for all over coverage? - Angie N.
Q: I don't like to look "made up", but need something to even out my skin tone. I also have problems with breakouts, so I need to be careful not to clog my pores. Can you recommend a good, light, sheer, natural looking foundation? Thanks for your help. - Debra
Q: Are the combination foundation & powder compacts any good? If they are any good, which ones are better? - Andrea S.
A: With so many different brands and formulas out there, choosing a foundation that's right for you can be a real challenge. To find the right formula, and the right color, you need to know your skin. Are you oily? Dry? Only oily in spots? Sensitive? Normal? Knowing your skin type helps eliminate foundation formulas that aren't designed for your skin type.
For instance, if you have very dry skin that has flaky patches, a powder foundation will only make you feel drier, and it will accentuate any dry, flaky skin on your face. A liquid foundation with emollient ingredients like plant oils is a better choice for dry skin.
Here are a few handy guidelines for choosing the foundation that works best for your skin, as well as a list of my favorites by skin type (some are listed in more than one category):
For Normal Skin
Lucky you! You can use pretty much anything that suits your taste. Experiment with liquids, creams, powders, and sticks to see what you, and your skin, like the best. Powder foundations are, in my opinion, the easiest to use on normal skin and always look great. Always choose a shade that matches perfectly with your skin color (test the shade along your lower cheek just above the jaw-line for the best match; the right shade should seem to disappear). I'd recommend starting with:

Aveda Dual Performance Creme Powder
Bobbi Brown Foundation Stick
Estee Lauder Lucidity
FACE Stockholm Matte liquid
5S Base Color liquid
Garden Botanika Tinted Moisturizer
Lancome Eau de Teint
Lorac Oil-Free Makeup
MAC EP-T tinted moisturizer
MAC Studio Fix powder
Mary Kay Day Radiance liquid
Maybelline True Illusion liquid or liquid-to-powder
Prescriptives Virtual Skin
Prescriptives Exact Matchstick
Shiseido Liquid Compact cream-to-powder
Stila Oil-Free liquid
Stila Complete Coverage
Vincent Longo Water Canvas cream-to-powder
For Oily/Acne Prone Skin
Keeping shine under control, ensuring all day wear, and preventing breakouts are your biggest challenges. Look for an oil-free, oil-control formula that has the level of coverage you need (full for covering pimples and acne scars, sheer to medium if you don't have too much to hide). Always choose a shade that matches perfectly with your skin color (test the shade along your lower cheek just above the jaw-line for the best match; the right shade should seem to disappear). I recommend trying:

BeneFit Matte Tint
Estee Lauder Double Matte liquid
Laura Mercier Oil-Free Foundation
MAC Studio Fix powder
Maybelline Great Wear liquid
Revlon ColorStay Lite
Trish McEvoy Natural Tint Oil-Free liquid
Vincent Longo Water Canvas cream-to-powder
For Dry Skin
Not only does your skin need extra moisture, but you want a foundation that doesn't cake on fine lines or flaky patches. Creams and sticks are the best choices with liquids at a close second. If you are very dry, look for a formula that contains moisturizing natural plant oils. Always choose a shade that matches perfectly with your skin color (test the shade along your lower cheek just above the jaw-line for the best match; the right shade should seem to disappear). I recommend trying:

Bobbi Brown Foundation Stick
Bobbi Brown Moisturizing Foundation
Estee Lauder Minute Makeup stick
Garden Botanika Foundation Stick
Laura Mercier Moisturizing Foundation
Lorac Satin Makeup liquid
MAC Satin Finish liquid
Maybelline True Illusion liquid
Shiseido Benefiance Enriched Revitalizing Foundation
Stila Complete Coverage cream
Shopping for foundation can be time consuming, expensive, and frustrating, but don't give up. A smooth, even complexion, whether it's natural or from a bottle, is the best canvas for any makeup you wear.

Q: I keep reading conflicting advice about how to put on foundation. Which is better: using a makeup sponge or just your fingers?
A: When it comes to the "correct" way to apply makeup, most makeup artists have different ideas of what's "right" and what's "wrong". Here are some things to consider about applying foundation:
Using your fingers:
• Gives you hands-on control over where the product goes
• Warms the foundation so it spreads more easily
• Gives a full coverage look
• Allows for precise blending in hard-to-reach areas (like around your nose and eyes)
Using a sponge:
• Is sanitary and won't transfer oils from your hands to your face
• Gives a sheer or medium coverage look that is more natural than full coverage
• Gives a very smooth and even application
Personally, I like using a sponge because I don't want to risk transferring oils and bacteria from my hands to my face (especially in acne-prone areas), I like the control I have with a sponge, and the look and feel of the makeup is more polished. I find using my fingers can get messy and often look uneven. Try both and see which method works best for you!

Q: What kind of concealer covers up acne the best? - Lydia M.
Q: Where can I get a good concealer and how do I apply it? I always seem to get really orange toned concealers that make my skin look spotted. - Sabana
Q: I have tried many under eye concealers and cannot find one that hides the dark circles. Which product(s) do you recommend? I am 42 years old and have had these circles all my life. Thanks. - Claudia
A: A good concealer in a shade that matches your skin tone can really help with dark circles, red areas or veins, blemishes, freckles, or anything else you want to cover. You'll want to choose the formula that is best for the specific area you are trying to conceal. Here's a handy guide:
For blemishes, you want a stick or thicker cream formula with a smooth finish that doesn't look cakey or thick. These types usually work the best because of their staying power. I recommend Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage, Stila "face" concealer, Bobbi Brown Professional Concealer or Foundation Stick, and Garden Botanika Stick Foundation. Apply the concealer with a small, clean makeup brush, dabbing a small amount of concealer on the blemish until it is covered. Use a very gentle touch, and do not rub or over-blend. Once it is covered, apply a thin layer of loose powder over the concealer to "lock" it in.
For everything else including dark under eye circles, spider veins, small freckles, or whatever you want to hide, you can choose from a variety of concealers to suit your taste, from liquid to cream to stick.
As with blemishes, the harder the spot is to cover, the more precise and gentle you'll want to be with your application. For severe under eye circles (dark blue or purple), a medium weight cream tends to stay put and resist creasing better than a liquid. Apply the concealer only to the very dark areas, and blend gently with a few finger taps.
For small red spots, veins, and such, experiment with the different textures to see which works best for you. I like using a semi-creamy product applied with a small makeup brush for just about everything, but you might find a liquid with a sponge applicator is your favorite. A few more brands I like are BeneFit Boi-ing, Stila "eye", Jane No Show, Maybelline Great Wear, and Estee Lauder Uncircle.
Make sure that any concealer you buy is in a color that matches your skin color as closely as possible. You will get the most natural look this way, and it blends more easily if you ever wear the concealer alone without foundation.

Q: What's the best eye gel for smoothing fine lines under and around the eye area? - Drew H.
Q: I'm 18 and have wrinkles under my eyes. How do I get rid of them? - Cathy
Q: I am 28 years old and I'm starting to get fine lines around my eye area. My regular eye cream and concealer don't seem to help anymore. Is there anything else I can do? - Toni B.
A: The eye area is one of first places on your face to show stress, aging, fatigue - all of the things you'd rather not reveal! The effects come in the form of puffiness, dark circles, fine lines, and crow's feet (those charming lines and creases in the outer corners). Is there anything we can do?
Before we attempt to treat any damage that's already there, it's important to make a commitment to reducing the chance of new damage. This means protection from the sun, and it needs to be a year-round part of your regular skin care. Whether in an eye cream or a regular moisturizer, choose at least an SPF 15 product with a broad-spectrum protection sunscreen ingredient like Parsol 1789, titanium dioxide, or avobenzone. Apply it every day as your final skin care step before your makeup to help prevent lines and wrinkles from sun damage.
Now that you are on the right track to protecting your skin, what can you use for the fine lines you have now? A moisturizing eye cream with ingredients like hyaluronic acid, propylene or butylene glycol, or glycerin that trap water in your skin can plump up the lines temporarily, so they look less pronounced. The key word here, however, is "temporarily", because eye creams only make the eye area look better when you are wearing them. To actually diminish the lines, you enter into the realm of Retin-A, alpha hydroxy acids, and vitamin A (retinol) creams, which can be irritating and costly. Try to get samples of these types of products when you can to see if it might make a difference for you.
To reduce puffiness, your best bet is to treat the affected area with a lightweight eye gel containing chamomile, green tea, cucumber, or aloe. I would also recommend drinking plenty of fluids, using a cool compress or some cucumber slices if you can, and getting enough rest (easier said than done, I know).
You know what kind of product you need, now comes the fun part - shopping! Here are a few of my personal favorites to consider:
L'Oreal Revitalift Eye (around $10) moisturizes the eye area, and absorbs quickly and completely without feeling greasy or heavy. Revitalift Eye easily compares in quality to more expensive creams from Clarins (Extra Firming Eye Contour Cream $42.50), Bobbi Brown (Eye Cream $32.50) or Lancome (Primordiale Yeux $40) - all without the sticker shock. Remember: price does not always equal quality. Just because an eye cream costs $50 and claims to erase years from your face doesn't mean it will.
Avon Anew Perfect Eye Care Cream SPF 15 ($12.50) includes sun protection, which helps prevent wrinkles from sun damage, and its lightweight texture absorbs quickly, perfect for under makeup.
If ever an eye treatment could pass for a slice of real cucumber, Pond's Soothing Cucumber Eye Treatments (around $8 for jar of 24) can! With cucumber, green tea, chamomile, cornflower, orange peel, and rose hip extracts, plus aloe vera gel and vitamin E, these pads feel heavenly after a long day, or while soaking in the tub. Keep them in the fridge for the ultimate cooling sensation.
Clinique All About Eyes ($25) is, in my opinion, the best of Clinique's selection of eye creams. It successfully combines the benefits of a gel (reduces puffiness, feels cooling and soothing on the skin) with the moisturizing and smoothing properties of a cream. The texture is very silky and makes a fantastic base for eye makeup without crumbling or creasing.
I saved my advice about dark circles for last because they are the trickiest concern of all. Creams and gels won't really change the discoloration, and some cases of dark circles are hereditary, meaning no amount of sleep or proper nutrition will make a difference. The best weapon is a good concealer and careful application to hide the shadows. Choose a medium weight cream or stick concealer that matches your overall skin tone and has some yellow in it to counteract the bluish purple of the shadow. Apply it with a small brush and gently tap it into the skin with your finger (don't rub).

Q: I have a problem with eye shadow. It seems that as soon as I put it on, it wears off! Do you have any suggestions on how to make it hang on longer?
A: There are a variety of opinions about how to make eye shadow last longer, so here is mine! Some makeup artists may do it differently, but I've found this method works time and again.
Eye shadow, just like blush, needs something to cling to besides bare skin for it to last. Just like we wear foundation on the skin to keep the rest of the makeup on longer, I always use a concealer or eye shadow base plus a dusting of loose powder before I apply my eye shadow. My personal favorites for an eye shadow base are Bobbi Brown Foundation Stick, Lorac Coverup Cream, and Trish McEvoy Protective Shield Concealer.
Using a clean finger, a clean synthetic makeup brush, or a clean makeup sponge, just dab a small amount of the concealer over your entire eye lid and blend. You can use the same concealer under your eyes to create a completely smooth makeup look. Set the concealer with a dusting of loose powder using a brush, puff, or makeup sponge. Make sure to get under your eyes and in corners to prevent concealer meltdown and creasing. Your canvas is now ready to go! The dry surface and holding power of the concealer should help any eye shadow last longer and stay true.

Q: I like to wear eyeliner, but not when I end up looking like a raccoon after just a few hours! I really need eyeliner that lines with rich color, yet doesn't smear or come off. What do you recommend?
A: Eyeliner can make the difference between great looking eyes, and a great big disaster! Personally, I only use shadow or cake liners with a lining brush. The look is softer, you have more control over the thickness of the line, the shadow lasts longer and don’t smear like greasy pencils, and you never have to worry about pencil sharpeners. When you first make the switch to shadows instead of pencils, it does take a little getting used to, but you'll quickly see how much better it looks.
Here are a few of my favorite shadows for lining. You can use these wet, too, by just spritzing a little water on your liner brush.

• Bobbi Brown shadows in Rich Brown, Cocoa, Navy, Charcoal and Mahogany
• Aziza Daily News eye shadow trio (the darkest brown)
• FACE Stockholm shadow in Joy
• MAC shadow in Corduroy
• Christian Dior shadow liner in Plum
• Trish McEvoy eye definer #28
I really like the Bobbi Brown and Christian Dior shadows the absolute best for lining because the high pigment content makes the color last longer and stay true all day.
All you need to start lining is a liner brush like Trish McEvoy #11, Bobbi Brown Eye Liner Brush, or any other square-ish, flat brush that has firm bristles. Start by pointing the brush straight down into the shadow, then swipe the edge of the brush across the shadow several times. Tap off any extra, and then use the edge of the brush with the color on it to draw a thin line as close to the base of your lashes as possible. I like to start at the outside corner of the eye and work in to the inner corner. You can work in short strokes if it's easier, rather than trying to draw one long line. I also like to line only the top lid, but you can do the lower the very same way if you like. Experiment to see which "look" suits the shape of your eyes.

Q: I have small eyes. How can I make them appear larger?
A: The most invaluable makeup lesson I've learned over the years is the use of color. Just like in art, light makes things appear larger and more prominent, while darkness and shadows make things appear to recede and look smaller. If you want your eyes to appear larger, choose light to medium eye shadow colors for all over and save the darker shades for lining your eyes. Here's a handy guide to choosing eye shadow colors:

If your hair color is...
Then try these shadow colors
Blonde, Light Brown, or Strawberry Blonde/Red Highlight: light beige or cream
Lid: taupe, light gray, or light plum
Liner: dark brown, navy, or slate gray
Brown or Auburn Highlight: beige, very light yellow, or light pink
Lid: taupe, medium brown, or slate gray
Liner: mahogany, navy, or charcoal
Dark Brown or Black Highlight: light yellow, light pink, or light brown
Lid: chocolate brown, dark gray, or sable
Liner: mahogany or charcoal
To make your eyes appear larger, sweep the highlight color you've chosen all over your lid and up to the brow bone. Use a small eye shadow or crease brush to apply a soft sweep of the medium shade in the crease of your lid, or on the outside corner, making sure to blend the color well. To line your eyes, use a flat or angled liner brush to apply the darkest of your three colors in a very thin, soft line along the lash line. Personally, I line only the top lid, not the bottom, but you should try both ways and see which you like better. If you get the liner color as close as possible to the base of your lashes, this technique will also make your lashes appear thicker.
As a finishing touch, apply your favorite mascara on the top lashes only. This makes the eye look larger and more open. You're done!

1. "I want to lengthen my lashes"
2. "I want a high definition mascara"
3. "I dream of long, curled eyelashes"
4. "My lashes are thin, I want to thicken them"
5. "I need a mascara that is sweat-proof, water-proof and weather-proof."
6. "I want a water-proof mascara"
7. "I want a fortifying lash conditioner"

Q: I am looking for mascara that won't smudge. I have tried many brands and types including waterproof types but after a while the mascara leaves smudge marks under the eyes. Help!
A: One of the most important steps to preventing eye makeup meltdown is powder. If the eye area is oily, over moisturized, or in any way moist, none of your eye makeup will make it through lunch, let alone through the entire day. Make sure when you moisturize, especially around your eyes that it has completely absorbed before you apply your makeup. If you have oily skin, powder should be your best friend. Be generous on oily areas, and be sure to press some onto eyelids and around the eye area (lightly, so it doesn't cake). Powder will lock in foundation and concealer and help keep mascara and liner from running.

Q: What mascaras are really the best, both from bargain and expensive brands?
A: Mascara can be a very personal cosmetic, but I have some definite favorites! Whether you prefer thickening, lengthening, or just basic defining, here is my complete list of tested mascaras, including a handy rating system.

Simply the Best
**** Bobbi Brown (both defining or thickening formulas)
**** Chanel Instant Lash
**** Max Factor 2000 Calorie
Really Great
*** Jane Flashes
*** Chanel Sculpting Mascara Extreme Length
*** Maybelline Volum Express
*** Almay Amazing Lash Waterproof
*** M Professional
*** Maybelline Lash by Lash
*** Lancome Definicils
*** Estee Lauder More than Mascara
Good but Pretty Basic
** Stila
** L'Oreal Lash Out
** Nat Robbins Stay Put
** BeneFit
** Mary Kay Conditioning
** English Ideas Duo Lash
** Estee Lauder Lash Luxe
** MAC
People Actually Buy This?
* Jane Outer Limits
* Naturistics Long Shot lengthening mascara
* Maybelline Great Lash
* Garden Botanika
* Cover Girl Natural Lash Darkener
When it comes to mascara, try a few brands to see what suits your eyes the best. Good mascara shouldn't clump, smear, cake, flake, or look spiky, and it doesn't have to cost a fortune. One last tip: always replace your mascara every 3-4 months to prevent eye infections, especially for sensitive eyes and contact lens wearers.

Stila Brow Filler or Brow Definer
Although these colors look just like eye shadows, they actually have more pigment, so you need less and the color will last longer. Just like other powders, simply fill in the bare spots of your brows with a small amount of color applied with a stiff, angled brush. These two shades from Stila are natural and go well with most coloring.
After applying the color, brush through it with an old toothbrush, a clean mascara wand style brush (MAC #24, for example), or a stiff, angled makeup brush. Finally, set the color with a coat of a clear brow gel like Origins Brow Fix to keep the hairs in place. You can even do the gel by itself if you don't need or want any color.

Q: How should blush be applied and where should it start and end?
A: One of the easiest ways to get that healthy color is with blush; however, blush is the one product that is most commonly misused. How many times have you seen a woman with a bright pink or peach streak on her cheeks that is supposed to be blush but looks more like racing stripes? Applying blush the right way is as easy as 1-2-3. Here's how:
1. If your blush came with one of those little compact size blush brushes, throw it away or use it for eye shadow. Those brushes are way too small and the bristles aren't shaped properly to apply the color in a natural looking way. If it's racing stripes you want, that's just what you'll get with a bad brush. You don't have to spend a fortune on a good blush brush; you just need one that's fairly full and round, with tapered sides for better blending. I personally use MAC's #135 because its soft bristles and rounded shape apply the color very softly for a subtle look.
2. Don't try to reshape your face with blush and contour colors. You can accentuate your face and your cheeks naturally by just smiling. Smile, and you'll see the apple of your cheeks (the fleshy part that stands out the most), which is the exact spot to put your blush. Swipe your brush across your blush several times, and then tap the excess blush off before you apply it to your face. Don't blow on the bristles or you'll introduce the bacteria from your mouth onto the brush. Now that the brush has a light layer of blush on it, apply it to the apples of your cheeks and blend up and back toward your hairline.
3. Your blush should enhance your face and the rest of your makeup, not compete with it. If you are wearing red lipstick, don't wear peach or bronze blush. For the most natural looking makeup, try to keep all your colors either warm (think peach) or cool (think pink). If you aren't sure what blush color will look best on your skin, just look at your cheeks after you've been exercising. That color is your natural blush color, so keep that color in mind when you are shopping.

Q: I have small lips, and people tell me to wear lip liner outside the natural line of my lips. I've tried it and it just makes me look silly after the liner wears off! What can I do?
A: I've also had makeup counter artists tell me to line outside my natural lip-line to make my lips look fuller, and it looks ridiculous! You really can't physically change whether your lips are thin or full with lip liner, but you can choose lipstick colors that will make them appear fuller. Try wearing light lipstick colors or glosses that have a little shimmer. A few that I like are:

• Clinique Long Last Soft Shine lipstick in Baby Kiss
• Aveda gloss in Cinder (if you like brown)
• Stila gloss in Rose (comes in a silver tube)
• MAC lipstick in Skew (great new spring color)
• Origins Slipcovers gloss in Opal
Avoid dark colors like dark wine and berry shades, and deep browns and reds, since they will make your lips appear smaller. Also, use a lip liner that either matches your natural lip color, or matches your lip stick, and line on your natural lip line just for to keep your lip stick from bleeding.

Q: I can't keep my lipstick on for longer than 5 minutes. I have tried all the tricks, but nothing has worked. What can I do? You're my last hope!
A: Lipstick isn't made to last 24 hours, but you can get more from your favorite color with a few simple techniques.
1. Start with moisturized, but not overly moist, lips
Apply a lip balm or vitamin E stick at least 15 minutes before you apply your lipstick so it can absorb fully.
2. Choose a long-wearing, matte or demi-matte lipstick formula
Avoid lipsticks that are greasy or very creamy. A few good choices are:
o any MAC matte formula
o Maybelline Great Wear
o Revlon ColorStay
o L'Oreal Colour Endure or Lancome Rouge Idole
3. Fill in your lips completely with liner
Choose a liner that either matches your lipstick or your natural lip color, line your lips, and fill them in completely with color. Lip liner is a bit drier than lipstick and will help your lipstick last longer.
4. Apply, blot, apply, blot, and apply...
Apply your lipstick, blot off the excess, and repeat until you have the depth of color you want. You can also add a light dusting of loose powder over your blotted lips, and then apply the lipstick again to help lock the color in.
5. Carry your liner and lipstick with you
Have your liner and lipstick handy in case you need to touch up. Your lipstick won't last forever, but these easy tricks will help it at least last through lunch!
Lip Gloss Revolution!
Personal Favorites from our Panelist, Pam
The significance of gloss has crept upon the beauty market in a wondrous way. Now almost every major line of cosmetics has added gloss to the mix. Whether you are a Gloss Novice, or a complete Gloss Maven, there is a gloss choice for everyone.
Gloss Novice
You're a "gloss novice" if you're not quite ready for lip vinyl but are willing to take a chance with a dewy pout. Take those first baby steps with a balm; though not technically a gloss by definition, balms are the easiest way to get a handle on slick lips without having to commit to color and texture variances. Try one of these novice choices:

• Bonne Bell Lip Smacker Dr. Pepper – gentle, transparent, cherry
• Kiehl's Baby Lip Balm – lustrous, jeweled, sheer, very emollient
• Natural Glow Lip Treats Honey – warm, clear, shine
• Old Navy Groovy Grapefruit Lip Balm – smooth, sheer, finish
Gloss Intermediate
If you are ready to experiment with color, texture and application, then you've reached the intermediate stage of Gloss World. Don't be afraid to pick up a wand and give it a whirl, finger-paint or use a brush for application. Once you've mastered the basics, try mixing a gloss with your favorite lip liner and/or dabbed on top of your favorite lipstick. Try one of these intermediate choices:

• Cargo Flin Flon Gloss – opalescent white peach/opalescent white lavender
• Hard Candy Angel - frosty, yellow, beige, pastel
• Lorac Pink Lip Gloss – white-baby-pink, soft shimmer
• Nars Sunset Strip Wand Gloss – sheer/shimmer orange
• Nars Harlow Wand Gloss – sheer, shimmer, lilac, beige
• Poppy Shine Maraschino – moist, berry, glow
• Shu Uemura (Red/Abricot) – sheer, gentle, orange, red shine
• Stila Nude Shine – creamy, light, brown
Gloss Maven
Welcome to the world of a Gloss Maven - shine is now your middle name. Wand, brush or pot gloss, the sky is the limit! Beware though; things could get sticky. Never fear - in the world of gloss, sticky can be a very good thing. Sticky glosses will hold the shine longer and, if worn over a lipstick/lip liner, extend the longevity of application. It's time to try the best of the best maven choices:

• Bobbi Brown Lip Gloss White – pure, creamy, white
• Bobbi Brown Lip Gloss Petal – delicate, salmon, pink
• Clinique Glosswear SPF8 (Honey Bee) – peachy, beige
• FACE Pot Gloss Heavenly – sheer, shimmer, mauve
• Kiehl's Stick Gloss Red – lasting, vibrant, true, red
• Poppy Shine 14K – dense, creamy, white, gold
• Prescriptives Lip Lacquer (Voodoo) – deep, plum, grape
• MAC Lipglass – clear vinyl - extremely sticky
• Revlon Line & Shine Nude – creamy, pink/brown gloss & beige liner
• Nars Lip Lacquer Caribia – sheer, shimmer, copper, brown
Makeup Removers

Q: Even though I wash my face thoroughly every night, it never seems like I can get all that makeup off. Do I need a new cleanser or will something else help?
A: Even the best face cleansers can sometimes leave a little something behind - like mascara smudges, eyeliner smears, and traces of those longwearing foundations that endlessly cling to your skin. For the cleanest clean, consider adding an all-purpose makeup remover to your nightly routine. My favorite removers, listed below, are gentle, fast, and non-irritating even for the most sensitive skin and eyes.
For eyes, Beauty Without Cruelty Extra Gentle Eye Makeup Remover is my number one choice. Soothing calendula and chamomile extracts combined with extra gentle cleansers remove every trace of eye makeup with no stinging, burning, or oiliness. BWC products are also 100% vegan, which means absolutely no animal testing or animal-based ingredients.
Do you ever wish you could remove all your makeup in one sweep with no water and no hassle? Lancome Eau de Bienfait and BeneFit Clean Sweep are perfect all purpose choices. Simply saturate a cotton pad and let the cleaning begin! Both brands are non-oily, gentle to eyes and effective on everything from water-resistant mascara to caked-on concealer.
For all those transfer-resistant and longwearing makeup formulas we all seem to be wearing these days, Estee Lauder has introduced Eye and Lip Makeup Remover for Long Wear Formulas ($14.50 for 3.4 ounces). I've been less than thrilled with some other brands' removers, like Clinique Take the Day Off (painful stinging) and Avon Perfect Wear Makeup Remover (really oily), so I hoped EL's would be different. Turns out it's a great makeup remover that doesn't sting or burn, and it's not overly oily.

Makeup Brushes

Q: I have a whole collection of makeup brushes, and I'm not sure how or when to clean them. What is the best way to care for makeup brushes?
A: Caring for your makeup brush investment is much easier than most people realize. I typically wash all my brushes every two weeks. All you need is a good, slightly moisturizing shampoo, and a towel.
Start by wetting the brush bristles thoroughly, then apply a small dab of shampoo (I use Aveda Shampure) directly to the bristles, and work it in for a few seconds like you would shampoo your hair. I like to swish it around with a little water in my palm to work off any stubborn eye shadow or concealer. When the shampoo and water are free of debris, rinse the bristles thoroughly under lukewarm running water, very gently squeeze the excess water out, reshape the bristles to their normal shape, and lay the brush on the towel in a flat position. The brush must be dried flat for two reasons:
1. If the brush is upright, any excess water will run down into the brush and break down the glue that is holding the bristles in place
2. The bristles will bend and flop over into a completely different shape, making normal makeup application very difficult
I usually clean my brushes at night so they are completely dry and ready to go in the morning. Be careful not to over wash your brushes, as this can make the bristles brittle and scratchy. If you find you are using multiple colors that require the brush to be clean, consider buying more than one of the brushes you use most often.

Concealer advice for women over 40

This week we've got a great article on concealer advice for women over 40 from our Panelist Brita:

"When it comes to under eye concealers, it really doesn't matter what you use - no brand is perfect. Here are my tips to making the most of the concealer you choose:

*First, try to repair any damage in the eye area with a glycolic cream. Keep this area well moisturized.
*You're never going to cover the area totally. A Fifty percent improvement is realistic, concealer is half the story. You also have to play up your lashes and brows so this area is less prominent. *Whatever concealer you use, less is better than more. Also, how and where you apply it is very important. Dot it on with a brush, cotton swab, or sponge applicator, and then blend very gently with a sponge.
*I like a two-step process to cover the discoloration with a mauve correcting concealer, and then blend a flesh tone over it. I also like to warm up the color on my hand, and then apply it with a brush.

*Don't put concealer on the entire under eye area - it will crease. Concentrate on the area next to the nose, above and below the eye. *If under eye bags are really prominent, gently ice this area before applying makeup.
While I've found that most brands are relatively the same, here are a few that I've had particular success with: Trish McEvoy is good for a high end brand; Revlon for a low end. The Body shop wand concealer is good for touch-ups. The mauve undercoat I
use is a Joe Blasco stage product. I've found it makes all the difference.

The basic difference in brands is in tones - most of the cheaper ones are too pink - and thickness. However, if you warm them up before using them, the consistency is pretty much the same."

Q: I can never figure out what colors of eye shadow look best on me. Is there some trick to it?
A: Simple eye makeup can really bring out your eyes, and you don't need six different shadows to do it. For everyday, I like to use one lid color, one highlight color, and one liner color (shadow or pencil depending on your preference) at the most. If you pick neutral shades like browns, grays, and plums, you can actually create several different looks from just three colors.
To choose an eye shadow lid color that will really bring out your eyes, think back to the color wheel you learned about in elementary school. Choosing complementary colors (those opposite each other on the color wheel) gives you the most contrast and makes each color stand out. What does this mean for eye shadow?
• If you have brown eyes, shades of blue, blue gray, and plum will make your eyes stand out
• If you have green eyes, choose shades of pink, salmon, mauve, and brownish-pink to make the green look greener.
• If you have blue eyes, shades of brown, camel, and taupe will make the blue appear even bluer.
For highlight and liner, stick with neutral colors like beige or soft yellow for highlight and deep brown, navy, or charcoal for liner. Now you're ready to apply!
Lid Color
Since the lid color is going to be the focal point of your eye makeup, the part that makes your eyes stand out the most; I like to use a good eye shadow brush and a good quality shadow that is soft, blends easily, and won't crease. Applying eye shadow isn't tricky - you just need to remember a few simple tips.
1. Always tap the excess shadow off the brush before you apply it to your lid, otherwise all the extra will fall into your eye or smear on your cheek.
2. Work slowly and deliberately. Plan where you want to the shadow to go, and don't be afraid to take your time to get it right (especially with liner).
3. Blend the edges of the color using a clean brush so there are no obvious lines between where color starts and ends.
Using the eye shadow color you've chosen for your lid, swipe your brush across the color a few times, tap off the excess, then apply the shadow across your lid in small strokes. Don't get too close to the crease or to your brow bone, since that's where the highlighter goes.
Highlight
Highlighting is the easiest step in eye makeup. Using a small eye shadow brush, pick up a bit of your light color with the brush, tap off any excess, and apply to the area just under your eyebrows. You should be able to cover it in one sweep. Now, clean off the brush on a piece of tissue or a towel, and use the cleaned brush to blend the highlighter color down into the edge of the lid color so there's no obvious line. I really use a highlight color more as a blending and softening color rather than adding more color to your eyes.
Liner
Personally, I like using a dark shadow and a flat, square liner brush much better than pencils. Pencils can drag, smear, cake, and leave little blobs on your eyelid that inevitably falls into your eye. Using a dark eye shadow like a deep brown, black, navy, or charcoal and a liner brush with fairly stiff bristles (I like Trish McEvoy #11 and Stila #13), you can get the same defining effect as a pencil without a heavy pencil line. If you are just starting out with shadow as liner, you could even use the tip of a pointed sponge applicator instead of a brush; the control isn't as good, but it'll do in a pinch!
Start by pointing the brush/applicator straight down into the shadow, and then tap the edge of the brush/applicator tip onto the shadow several times. Tap off any extra, and then use the edge of the brush/applicator with the color on it to draw a thin line as close to the base of your lashes as possible. Make sure to start at the inside corner of your eye and work all the way out to the outer corner. You can work in short strokes if it's easier, rather than trying to draw one long line. I also like to line only the top lid, but you can do the lower the very same way if you like. Experiment to see which "look" suits the shape of your eyes.
Eyeliner queries and questioning eyes:
Eyeliner, whether liquid or dry, should be applied at the base of the lash line on the upper eye. The lower eye is the same application technique at the lower lash line. I would not recommend using liquid liner on the bottom lash line, it tends to look harsh and is hard to apply perfectly on your own without making a mess! Dry liners are better on the bottom lashes since they are easier to blend. You can create the width of the eyeliner to your own preference. You can blend with an applicator sponge or blending brush to make a hard line subtler, if needed. Ms. Questioning eyes, being a blonde myself; eyeliner colors that would suit your skin tone would be a light to dark brown, taupe or a light heather color. I like to avoid black eyeliner because it makes us blondes appear like we have eyeliner on!

How do I use liquid or cake eyeliners?
Answer: Most liquid eyeliners come with a brush or an applicator with a tip similar to that of a felt tip pen. Make sure you rest your arm on a steady object such as a desk or dresser. It may be easier to also place the palm of your hand on your face to help keep your hand steady. Begin by using the very tip of the brush for a thinner line near the inner corner of your eye. The thicker the line you desire, then use the wider part of the brush. Use a Q- tip dipped in eye makeup remover to "erase" any mistakes. Cake eyeliners are applied the same way except you have to use water to wet the eyeliner and get the consistency you want. Remember not to use saliva as this can cause eye infections.

Makeup Brushes from the Art Supply Store

report by Elaine of the Cosmetic Connection Product Panel
Everyone's heard, at one time or another, that it's cheaper to buy make-up brushes at an artist supply store. But have you ever tried it? It's instant overload - rack after rack of brushes of every discernible shape and size. You see a nice shaped sable brush and pick it up. Aside from the handle being 18 inches long, the price is enough to cause cardiac arrest - $60 for something that might run half that at the local MAC counter. So where's the bargain?

It’s there all right; if you know what to look for. Here are some general tips to help you find the best deals.
Synthetic brushes are always cheaper by as much as 90 percent at the artist supply store. These are the brushes you can use to apply concealer, lipstick and eyeliner. Want something that duplicates the Bobbi Brown eyeliner and lip brushes? Look for a brush with an oval shape. If the bristles are too long, you can trim them with a manicure scissors. Want to knock off that Trish McEvoy No. 11 eyeliner brush? Find something straight across with a narrow row of bristles. Expect to pay no more than $3 for any of these.
Slanted or angle brushes are always cheaper by at least 50 percent or more. These are the brushes you'll use for defining the eye crease and applying powdered eyeliner and brow make-up. The fabled MAC No. 22 goes for something like $24. In an art supply store, you should be able to find one in the same red sable or kolinsky for about $10.
If you favor sable lip brushes - both straight across and shaped - you're likely to find them for no more than $8. Ditto for eyeliner brushes.
Not quite as cheap but still reasonable are straight across or "wash" brushes in camel, sable and pony that you can use for blending.
Another bargain is the white goat hair brushes with bamboo handles from the orient. A great boudoir powder brush for under $10.
What's not on this list? Blush brushes and chiseled sable eye shadow brushes. For some reason, you fare better purchasing these at the make-up counter.
But what if the aesthetics of these brushes don't grab you? Say you're a neat freak and you like all of your brushes to match. Well, there are things you can do to make your motley assortment of brushes more appealing:

• Handles that are too long can be broken or sawed down to size. After you're done, smooth the bottom with sandpaper and cover the exposed wood with black permanent marker to match the rest of the handle.
• If you don't like the color of the brush handle, you can remove the color with make-up remover for a natural wood look or cover the entire thing black with permanent marker. Why go to all this trouble? Because it's great to have spares of lip and concealer brushes or duplicates for your purse. And with the money you save, you can buy more make-up!
Q: Department store cosmetics are so expensive, and sometimes I just don't see the results they promise. Are there any products from the drugstore that really work and won't drain my wallet?
A: Let me just start by saying that for the most part, cosmetic companies often make pretty lofty claims about what their products can do. So many of them promise the sun, moon and stars, but those results often are just not possible (like "re-training" the skin to act differently, making pores physically smaller, and magically erasing wrinkles, just to name a few). We all want to look our best, so we get sucked in and start to believe that a miracle cream or potion might really exist - it doesn't :(
Having said that, there are plenty of good quality skin care and makeup choices at the drugstore that are just as effective (just ignore the hype) as department store brands for a lot less money. Here are a few of my favorites:
Makeup

Foundation can be a little tricky if there are no testers to try the colors on your skin, but there are still some great products to be found at the drugstore. If there are no testers, try to shop somewhere that will let you exchange your purchase for another color if necessary. You can also bring a favorite foundation you currently use from another brand to the drugstore and compare colors. I've done this several times and find it can really help narrow the choices down. Of all the drugstore foundations available, I've found Maybelline True Illusion and Great Wear liquids, Almay Amazing Lasting and new Skin Stays Clean liquids, Revlon New Complexion One Step cream-to-powder makeup, and Jane True to You liquid all have nice texture, good wearability, a nice range of colors, and work well for a variety of skin types.
Mascara is one of my favorite products to get at the drugstore. It's so reasonably priced, I can afford to replace it every three months (good for preventing eye problems caused by bacteria) and not feel like I'm throwing my money away.

When most women think drugstore mascara, they think Maybelline Great Lash; it has been touted for years as a favorite in the business, named countless times as magazine beauty editors' favorite, but I honestly have no idea why. I find it to be thick, gloppy, overly wet, and it smears like nobody's business. This is one of those "like it or hate it" products, so I can understand if you strongly agree or disagree with me. Here are a few drugstore mascaras that I recommend: Maybelline Lash by Lash and Volum' Express, L'Oreal Voluminous and Le Grand Curl (compares to Lancome Extencils), Max Factor 2000 Calorie, Lord & Berry Dramateyes, and Jane Flashes.
Lipstick is another easy winner at the drugstore - the prices are so much lower than dept. store brands that you can afford to try new colors and textures. Of the brands I've tried, Nat Robbins Stay Put, Maybelline Great Wear, Wet 'n Wild Mega Colors, Coty 24 Hour Creme, and Revlon Velvet Touch are among my favorites. Changing your lipstick is one of the easiest ways to update your makeup, and these drugstore finds make it affordable, too.

Skin Care
With the prices of fancy treatment creams at the department store counters skyrocketing; it's no wonder we want to find something comparable at the drugstore. Many of the products are even practically identical to department store brands; for instance, Lancôme and L'Oreal are owned by the same company and have many similar skin care products. If you have a Lancôme favorite but hate spending so much money, L'Oreal just might have a similar product for less.
Of all the drugstore products I've tried, here are a few of my favorites that I think perform as well or better than those at the expensive cosmetic counters:

• Biore: I particularly like the non-foaming cleanser, the self-heating mask, the daily scrub, and, yes, even the pore strips.
• Pond's: The new makeup remover towellettes are a great find, as is their Cleansing Lotion & Moisturizer In One.
• Neutrogena: Their Extra Gentle Facial Cleanser, Fresh Foaming Cleanser, Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Cream (compares to Estee Lauder Diminish Retinol Treatment), and Norwegian Formula Hand Cream are among my favorites of this brand.
• Oil of Olay: You can't go wrong with the original beauty fluid, and I also love the sensitive skin cream.
• Alpha Hydrox: Don't be fooled by dept. store AHA creams that claim to work better just because they cost more. Alpha Hydrox has a range of strengths to suit everybody to effectively make a difference in the texture and clarity of your skin.
Remember a basic cosmetic rule - you don't always get what you pay for! With a little comparison-shopping, you'll find some great, inexpensive products at the drugstore that work just as well or better than high priced department store lines.

Lipstick compact: something new and fun from MAC
For something new and fun from MAC right now, I highly recommend their lipstick compact to those of you in Nordstrom territory (the compact was created for the Nordstrom Anniversary Sale going on now). For $24 you get a handy refillable palette compact filled with some of MAC's best sellers, like taupe, fetish, gel, pivot, twig, rizzo, and clear vitamin E stick. I love the enclosed lip brush, which is of the same quality as all of MAC's brushes, only smaller (not some cheezy throw-away). This compact is great for purse, travel, and mixing your own shades on the go.

FYI - If you are a makeup maven like me but don't have access to MAC where you live, you can still satisfy your craving by ordering products through MAC's mail order line (1-800-387-6707).

Q: What is the best make-up to wear with red lipstick? It's all the rage right now and it looks sensational when done right. What do you recommend?
A: My favorite look to go with red lips is great looking skin, subtle and sheer eye color, and soft blush. Start with Concealer and/or foundation in the areas you need it for a flawless finish on your skin. Depending on your coloring, choose a soft neutral eye shadow for all over the lid, like something brown based or cream. Skip liner, or do a simple thin line very close to the base of your lashes in dark brown or charcoal, then a coat or two of mascara just to help define your eyes. Since the focus is on your lips, use a liner that matches your lipstick, and apply your lipstick with a lip brush for the best coverage and control. For blush, I like to use something subtle that's close to the shade I naturally blush. That's all there is to it!

Deciphering Cosmetic Labels
The ingredient labels on cosmetics these days might as well be in Greek. What is all that stuff?
With the huge growth in not only the number of cosmetic lines we have to choose from these days, but also the sheer number of products each of them has, it's no wonder that our skin is becoming more sensitive and more confused than ever before. Making sense out of what's in your cosmetics and skin care will not only make you feel more empowered about what you're putting on your skin, but it will help you learn what ingredients to look for, and which ones to avoid.
The Lowdown on Ingredients
Here's a handy guide to some of the basic ingredients you'll find in cleansers, toners, moisturizers, and masks. Remember when reading a cosmetic ingredient label that the ingredients are listed from most to least, just like a packaged food label.
• Sodium lauryl (or laureth) sulfate - detergent cleanser that is effective but can be drying and irritating to your skin. The "laureth" version is gentler but can still dry the skin. Other similar cleansing agents are:
o TEA-lauryl sulfate
o Cocamide DEA
o Ammonium lauryl (or laureth) sulfate
o Magnesium laureth sulfate
o Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfate
o Triethanolamine
• Polyethylene glycol (PEG) - gives an emollient feel, or "slip", to a product like a cleanser or lotion. Similar slip agents include:
o Polysorbates
o Propylene glycol
o Polypropylene glycol
o Butylene glycol
o Hexylene glycol
o Isopropyl myristate (may clog pores in some people)
• Methylparaben - a common preservative found in most cosmetics to guard against bacteria, fungus, yeast, and mold. Some people with especially sensitive skin may have reaction to these preservatives. Other parabens include:
o Propylparaben
o Butylparaben
o Ethylparaben
Other preservatives that can be irritating to the skin are Imidazolidinyl urea, Quaternium-15, and 2-bromo-2-nitropane-1, 3-diol
Glycerin - an extremely common ingredient that attracts and binds water to the skin. Check your labels for these other water-binders:
o Propylene glycol
o Polypropylene glycol
o Butylene glycol
o Hexylene glycol
o Caprylic/capric/lauric triglycerides
o Cyclomethicone/Dimethicone
o Fatty acids like Stearic acid and Linoleic acid
o Hyaluronic acid (a protein)
o Sodium PCA (found in all living cells, helps to maintain water balance)
o Collagen (a protein that makes up the support structure of your skin)
o Ceramide
o Elastin (a protein that helps skin stay elastic)
o Lecithin (found naturally in eggs, milk, sunflower seeds, soybeans, and some vegetables)
• Kaolin- a white Chinese clay that helps to absorb oil on the surface of the skin. It is common in clay-based facial masks and cleansers, but be aware that it may over-dry your skin if it high on the product's ingredient list. Another common clay which comes from volcanic ash, and might also be in clay-based masks or cleansers, is Bentonite.
• Squalane - a nutrient-rich oil present in human sebum that is also a natural anti-bacterial and healer. It spreads evenly and can penetrate deeper and more readily than most other oils. Other moisturizing ingredients include:
o Isopropyl palmitate
o Glyceryl stearate
o PEG-100 stearate
o Petrolatum
o Plant oils like avocado, apricot, peach kernel, and sweet almond
Thanks to the Educated Beauty Cosmetic Dictionary, "What's in your Cosmetics?" by Aubrey Hampton (Odonian Press, 1995) and product labels from Kiehl's, Garden Botanika, Lancome, BeneFit, and Alpha Hydrox for the research information.

Copyright Notice: All Photographs and Text on this site are Copyright © 1998-2006 by Jenelle Rose or by the respective site/page owners referenced or hyper linked by this site. Reproduction in any form is strictly prohibited without the written consent of the copyright owners. Commercial use is not allowed.

Technique:

Make-Up Presentation by Jenelle Rose

Originally presented 9/06/2000 Updated online regularly since!

Part One: FEMALE MAKEUP OR MAKEOVER

The Basics

Specifics:

Cleansers: Always liquids because bar soaps have lard in them and can clog pores. I like mine with moisturizers in them like Dove's. Masks and scrubs that exfoliate are good to use once per week. Avoid too much pulling and straining around the eye area. Use lots of water.

To apply cream eye shadow, use a sponge to smooth on a very thin, very light layer of loose powder on the entire eyelid before putting on the shadow. Lightly apply cream eye shadow using your fingers. Follow with another light application of loose powder.

Nails

Brands: OPI, Revlon, MAC but not the fast finish types. You trade speed drying for over-all smoothness.

Colors: Daytime-mostly paler colors like frost or pearl whites, silver, various shades of pink; nighttime-same or more likely darker shades like reds, wine colors, even black.

Finish Types

Base Coats: Just what they say they are. These or the hardeners can also act as a shield between your nail and the color, making the color more completely and easily removed.

Make Up Removal:

Eyes

Quick Tips

Style:

Cross Dressing

The Basics:

Shaving:

Make-Up Presentation by Jenelle Rose

Part two MALE TO FEMALE makeup

Foundation

Corrective makeup

Rouge

Eyebrows

Eyes

Lips

Taping

RuPaul

MAKEUP GIRL!

Cakin' the surface on...

My eyes! My eyes!

Lips

Smile Honey!

I'm ready for my wig lovely.

Rants and Raves!

Getting Started

Videos

Magazines

Books

Television

Internet

From kellyfl@aol.com

From AllisonC@ix.netcom.com

From saf@best.com Wed

Other Make Up Artist’s Advice:

EYEBROWS

EYESHADOW

GENERAL TIPS

Recommendations:

From Beyond Beauty

By Jane Pratt

The Brushes of the Trade

Make-Up Presentation by Jenelle Rose 9/06/2000

Makeover

Beauty Essentials

Glossary