Make-Up Presentation by Jenelle Rose 9/06/2000

Makeover

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Beauty Essentials

 

Essentials

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Makeup, Body care, Miscellaneous

step by step instructions

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Readers Tips... in Every Category

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Tips For Men

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Skin Care Tips

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Foundation Tips

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Eye Makeup Tips

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Perfume

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Nails and Hand Care

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Lipstick Tips

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Facial Structure

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Miscellaneous Tips

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Glossary

 

Concealer - dab on dark circles, broken capillaries, blemishes, or anything you want to hide

 

Loose Powder - apply with a big, fluffy brush to give a smooth finish to your skin without the heavy look of foundation

Blush - apply lightly to the apples of your cheeks to give you a bit of natural color; skip this step if you are naturally rose-y

Mascara - one coat gives soft but noticeable definition to your eyes

Lip balm, gloss, or sheer lipstick - keep it soft and simple, no lip liner

 

 

 

 

Lancôme:

You have never, or hardly ever, used make-up products. You're concerned about your appearance, but never quite know how to make the most of your natural beauty. You don't dare experiment too much because you're frightened the result might not be exactly what you had in mind! We think you'll be interested by what we've got to say...
Let us guide you towards your first, real make-up successes. As Fred Farrugia once said:

"Make-up should be a game, it should be fun". Experiment, start over, but above all, enjoy yourself!

Beautiful skin is the key to great-looking make-up.

Under-eyes circles? Blemishes? Skin discoloration? Broken capillaries? Shiny skin? Don't let a few imperfections here and there get you down! Even the super models get them sometimes - they just know how to hide them!
And there you are, all made up. No one will notice the make-up, but everybody will suddenly wonder why it is that you're looking so good. That's the magic of make-up with natural, 'built-in' success!

Tonight, you're going to be the most attractive woman out.there! 
You've decided to really go for a total transformation; a look like you might see around the nightclubs. Have fun and relish the transformation, because above all, make-up should be something to enjoy.

A final check in the mirror...and Cinderella shall go to the ball!  This is but the beginning of your voyage of make-up discovery!

Ask The Makeup Diva! ^™

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Q: I keep hearing about alpha hydroxy acids, but I feel clueless!

What are they and what do they do to my skin?

 

A: Alpha hydroxy acid, or AHA, is a general term used to describe a variety of skin-safe acids, like glycolic (derived from sugar cane), malic (derived from apples) and lactic (derived from milk), which exfoliate your skin chemically rather than manually (like with a grainy scrub or washcloth). AHAs slough off the dead skin cells by breaking up the chemical bonds they have with the surface of your skin.

 

What can this exfoliation do for your skin? It is actually great for just about every skin type because it helps eliminate the build-up of dead cells that can clog your pores and cause blemishes, and it can make your skin replace old, damaged cells with new, fresher ones faster. With continued use, an AHA can make fine lines soften, improve your skin's overall texture and color, and reduce the number

and severity of breakouts.

Unfortunately, not all AHAs are created equally, but you don't have to pay $50 or $75 for a fancy department store brand to see results; many of the inexpensive drugstore brands are actually more effective. When shopping for an AHA product, here are a few things to keep in mind:

 

1. Make sure the AHA you choose has at least one of the well known, proven AHA ingredients, like glycolic, lactic, malic, or even tartaric (from red wine) acid. Products labeled with only "miscellaneous fruit acids" have not been proven to work as effectively, although they can sound persuasive from a "natural versus chemical" standpoint.

 

2. AHAs come in lotions, creams, and serums/gels, so choose the one that best suits your skin type. Lotions are great for most any skin type, creams are for drier skin, and serums or gels work well for someone with oily or acne-prone skin.

 

3. AHAs can make your skin more sensitive and vulnerable to sun damage, so be sure to use them in conjunction with a daily sunscreen that has at least SPF 15 broad spectrum protection.

 

4. AHAs can cause some irritation, even if you aren't usually sensitive, so stick to a "less is more" philosophy. If you are just starting with an AHA, use a low percentage (4-5% concentration), gentle product only once a day, or once every other day. If your skin reacts well to it, consider increasing to daily morning and night use.

 

Mild stinging when you first apply an AHA is normal, but it should subside after a minute or two. Continued stinging is not considered normal, so you should immediately stop using any product that irritates your skin. If you try using it again in smaller amounts or less frequently and it still causes a problem, don't be afraid to return it to the store for a refund.

 

Here are a few brands to consider:

 

  o Alpha Hydrox 5% lotion for sensitive skin, 8% lotion, or 10%

     enhanced oil-free gel (glycolic acid)

  o Pond's Age Defying Complex (8% glycolic acid)

  o Avon Anew All-in-One Perfecting Complex (4% glycolic) or

     All-in-One Intensive Complex (8% glycolic)

  o Circle of Beauty All Even AHA serum (8% lactic acid)

  o Neutrogena Healthy Skin Face Lotion (8% glycolic acid)

  o Philosophy Hope in a Jar (lactic acid)

  o BeautiControl Regeneration Gold (lactic and tartaric acids)

 

Q: When is it best to apply a clarifying mask? Before or after cleansing? Moisturizing?

A: Doing a mini-facial at home is a great treat for your skin, and for yourself.

Whether your skin needs purifying, hydrating, or soothing, always start with clean skin. Use a mild, nondrying cleanser, rinse thoroughly, and pat dry. Apply your mask of choice following the product instructions. When the mask is "done", remove it gently, usually with a warm washcloth (unless it's a peel-off variety), and splash your skin thoroughly with lukewarm to cool water. Follow up with your favorite toner or freshener, and then apply your moisturizer or night treatment.

It's that easy! For normal skin, I recommend a mask once a week. For oily skin, two to three times a week is a great way to keep oil and breakouts at bay. If you have dry skin, a hydrating mask once a week can really help, but keep the deep cleansing varieties for once-a-month treatments.

Q: Is there a logical way to apply makeup? What should I apply first and last? - Pat L.

A: Although there are variations to applying things like lipstick and eye shadow, putting on basic makeup like foundation and concealer are as easy as 1-2-3!

Always start with a clean, moisturized face. If you wear foundation, you'll apply this first, either all over your face or just in the spots you need it - whichever method you prefer. I like to apply foundation all over so my skin looks as even as it can. Note: if you use a powder-based, two-in-one style foundation like MAC Studio Fix, Stila Illuminating Powder, Aveda Dual Base minus Oil, or Cover Girl Simply Powder, you can skip right to your color cosmetics after applying your foundation. You don't need extra concealer or powder.

Your second step, if you have any areas that weren't covered by your foundation and need extra attention, like dark undereye circles, blemishes, red spots, or broken capillaries, is where concealer comes in. Apply it with your fingers, a clean sponge, or a makeup brush in gentle, dabbing strokes, then tap carefully with your fingertip around the edges to blend. You can also apply concealer to your eyelids for a really smooth look. It will even out any blotchy skin tone and will help your eye shadow stay on longer.

The third step after foundation and concealer is powder. Even dry skin can benefit from the right powder because it sets your makeup for longer wear throughout the day. I like loose powder better than pressed because the finish is lighter. Apply it lightly with a large powder brush, making sure to dust a little under your eyes to set your concealer (helps prevent creasing).

With your basic makeup finished, the rest is really up to your own preference. Here are a few guidelines: If you use eye makeup, I recommend you apply your shadows first, then liner, then mascara. The mascara will seal in any eye shadow that falls on your lashes and actually make them look thicker.

• Apply your blush after foundation and eye makeup so you can adjust the intensity of the color to suit the rest of your face.
• Lip liner can come either before or after lipstick depending on your needs. If you like having an outline to fill in, apply liner first and then lipstick - just make sure to blend the edges with a lip brush or cotton swab so you don't have an obvious line. If you feel confident with applying lipstick, I recommend putting your lipstick on first, then liner. I find the colors last longer this way and it tends to look more polished.

 

Q: What is the best sequence for applying my base make-up?

A: Ask five makeup artists what the best order is to apply your makeup, and you'll probably get five different answers. We all have our own opinions on how to make you look you best. Personally, I think my method is simple, fast, and you'll still look like you when you're done! Here are my easy steps:

1.      Start with a clean, moisturized face.

2.      Apply your favorite foundation in a shade that matches your skin color exactly. Blend multiple shades together if necessary to get a perfect match. Foundation acts as the canvas for everything else, so apply a thin, even layer by blending thoroughly and carefully. If you can see a difference between the color of your face and the color of your neck, you are using the wrong shade.

If you are happy with the tone of your skin and you don't think you need foundation, skip this step.

3.      After you've applied your foundation, or if you don't need foundation, if you have any blemishes, dark under-eye circles, birthmarks, scars, or anything else that you'd like to cover with makeup, use a concealer. Concealers come in a variety of forms, from stick to cream to pencil. For under eye circles, choose a creamy stick or medium weight cream that will look smooth without creasing or caking under your eyes. I like Bobbi Brown's foundation stick, Stila's eye concealer, or Revlon New Complexion oil-free the best. You can also use a stick or cream for blemishes as long as the formula you choose doesn't make the pimple worse. Longwearing formulas like Almay Amazing Lasting and Maybelline Great Wear also work well on blemishes. For birthmarks, scars, or anything that needs full coverage, a thick cream concealer is your best bet. These take more work and more patience to apply and blend, but it's worth it. I like BeneFit Boi-ing!, Prestige Extreme Cover, and Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage. Apply your concealer either with a clean finger or a small, clean makeup brush. Apply with a gentle, tapping motion, patting the concealer into place, then carefully smooth and blend the edges so they aren't noticeable. Do not rub the concealer in, or you'll rub it right off and ruin the rest of your makeup.

4.      To complete your "canvas", you need powder. Choose a formula that suits your skin type, and apply a thin layer with a big, soft powder brush. Powder is very important because it locks in your foundation and concealer for longer, better wear. After I've dusted a thin layer all over my face, I like to apply a small amount of loose powder with the tip of a clean finger to any blemishes that I've applied concealer, on my eye lids, and under my eyes to lock in the concealer (don't do this if you have a lot of wrinkles, or the powder will accentuate them). Use your powder brush to dust off any excess.

Q: The choices in foundation are so overwhelming! What are some of your favorites?

A: Foundation is one of the most important steps in your makeup routine. It can make your skin look its best, even if you're having a less-than-perfect skin day. Whether you like sheer, medium, or full coverage, there are definitely plenty of choices for everyone's tastes. Of all the brands and formulas to choose from, here are my foundation favorites in three main categories: Liquid, Powder, and Stick.

Liquids
Tired of thick, cake-y makeup that makes you feel like a circus clown? Thanks to advanced technology and a wider selection of colors, today's foundations can make your skin look fresher and more radiant than ever before. The color selections are better than ever, too, with more choices in light and dark tones as well as more yellow-based colors. For any skin type, these are the three I've found are the best of the new liquids:

1. Lorac Oil-Free (for normal to oily skin) or Satin (for drier skin or a dewy finish) Makeup
2. Maybelline True Illusion
3. 5S Base Color SPF 12 (5S is a spin-off line from Shiseido)

Powder and Cream-to-Powder
Today's impressive selection of powder and cream-to-powder foundations are a great alternative to liquid. They give a smooth, even finish in a few strokes, and they are totally portable for easy touch-ups. My favorites are:

1. Prescriptives Photochrome Light Adjusting Compact Makeup SPF 15
2. Stila Illuminating Powder Foundation SPF 12
3. Shiseido Liquid Compact Makeup SPF 15
4. Vincent Longo Water Canvas
5. Revlon New Complexion One-Step Makeup

Stick
For those of us who like quick, simplified makeup, stick foundations are worth considering, especially for drier skin. They are easy to apply and can be used all over, or just as concealer for dark circles, on eyelids as eye shadow base - wherever!

1. Garden Botanika Stick Foundation
2. Estee Lauder Minute Makeup
3. Bobbi Brown Foundation Stick

Find Your Best Color

1 Test foundation on your cheek (if you're department-store shopping) to find the one that most closely resembles your skin tone. If you're in a drugstore, stand as close to a window as you can and match the bottle color to your cheek.

2 Always go for yellow-based foundations (those that brighten skin, rather than making it look sallow). Why? Yellow-based foundations neutralize blue and red tones and blend beautifully into every skin color (including African-American and Asian).

3 Stick with yellow-based concealer that is one shade lighter than your skin (if it blends perfectly with your skin, the way foundation should, it won't cover anything).

4 Set your makeup with translucent or colored powder that matches your foundation. Beware: Not all-translucent powder is colorless.

Q: I'm looking for a good oil-free foundation... Any suggestions? - Kim S.
Q: What exactly is the purpose of stick foundation? Is it just to be used as concealer or can you use it for all over coverage? - Angie N.
Q: I don't like to look "made up", but need something to even out my skin tone. I also have problems with breakouts, so I need to be careful not to clog my pores. Can you recommend a good, light, sheer, natural looking foundation? Thanks for your help. - Debra
Q: Are the combination foundation & powder compacts any good? If they are any good, which ones are better? - Andrea S.

A: With so many different brands and formulas out there, choosing a foundation that's right for you can be a real challenge. To find the right formula, and the right color, you need to know your skin. Are you oily? Dry? Only oily in spots? Sensitive? Normal? Knowing your skin type helps eliminate foundation formulas that aren't designed for your skin type.

For instance, if you have very dry skin that has flaky patches, a powder foundation will only make you feel drier, and it will accentuate any dry, flaky skin on your face. A liquid foundation with emollient ingredients like plant oils is a better choice for dry skin.

Here are a few handy guidelines for choosing the foundation that works best for your skin, as well as a list of my favorites by skin type (some are listed in more than one category):

For Normal Skin
Lucky you! You can use pretty much anything that suits your taste. Experiment with liquids, creams, powders, and sticks to see what you, and your skin, like the best. Powder foundations are, in my opinion, the easiest to use on normal skin and always look great. Always choose a shade that matches perfectly with your skin color (test the shade along your lower cheek just above the jaw-line for the best match; the right shade should seem to disappear). I'd recommend starting with:

Aveda Dual Performance Creme Powder
Bobbi Brown Foundation Stick
Estee Lauder Lucidity
FACE Stockholm Matte liquid
5S Base Color liquid
Garden Botanika Tinted Moisturizer
Lancome Eau de Teint
Lorac Oil-Free Makeup
MAC EP-T tinted moisturizer
MAC Studio Fix powder
Mary Kay Day Radiance liquid
Maybelline True Illusion liquid or liquid-to-powder
Prescriptives Virtual Skin
Prescriptives Exact Matchstick
Shiseido Liquid Compact cream-to-powder
Stila Oil-Free liquid
Stila Complete Coverage
Vincent Longo Water Canvas cream-to-powder

For Oily/Acne Prone Skin
Keeping shine under control, ensuring all day wear, and preventing breakouts are your biggest challenges. Look for an oil-free, oil-control formula that has the level of coverage you need (full for covering pimples and acne scars, sheer to medium if you don't have too much to hide). Always choose a shade that matches perfectly with your skin color (test the shade along your lower cheek just above the jaw-line for the best match; the right shade should seem to disappear). I recommend trying:

BeneFit Matte Tint
Estee Lauder Double Matte liquid
Laura Mercier Oil-Free Foundation
MAC Studio Fix powder
Maybelline Great Wear liquid
Revlon ColorStay Lite
Trish McEvoy Natural Tint Oil-Free liquid
Vincent Longo Water Canvas cream-to-powder

For Dry Skin
Not only does your skin need extra moisture, but you want a foundation that doesn't cake on fine lines or flaky patches. Creams and sticks are the best choices with liquids at a close second. If you are very dry, look for a formula that contains moisturizing natural plant oils. Always choose a shade that matches perfectly with your skin color (test the shade along your lower cheek just above the jaw-line for the best match; the right shade should seem to disappear). I recommend trying:

Bobbi Brown Foundation Stick
Bobbi Brown Moisturizing Foundation
Estee Lauder Minute Makeup stick
Garden Botanika Foundation Stick
Laura Mercier Moisturizing Foundation
Lorac Satin Makeup liquid
MAC Satin Finish liquid
Maybelline True Illusion liquid
Shiseido Benefiance Enriched Revitalizing Foundation
Stila Complete Coverage cream

Shopping for foundation can be time consuming, expensive, and frustrating, but don't give up. A smooth, even complexion, whether it's natural or from a bottle, is the best canvas for any makeup you wear.

Q: I keep reading conflicting advice about how to put on foundation. Which is better: using a makeup sponge or just your fingers?

A: When it comes to the "correct" way to apply makeup, most makeup artists have different ideas of what's "right" and what's "wrong". Here are some things to consider about applying foundation:

Using your fingers:

·         Gives you hands-on control over where the product goes

·         Warms the foundation so it spreads more easily

·         Gives a full coverage look

·         Allows for precise blending in hard-to-reach areas (like around your nose and eyes)

Using a sponge:

·         Is sanitary and won't transfer oils from your hands to your face

·         Gives a sheer or medium coverage look that is more natural than full coverage

·         Gives a very smooth and even application

Personally, I like using a sponge because I don't want to risk transferring oils and bacteria from my hands to my face (especially in acne-prone areas), I like the control I have with a sponge, and the look and feel of the makeup is more polished. I find using my fingers can get messy and often look uneven. Try both and see which method works best for you!

Q: What kind of concealer covers up acne the best? - Lydia M.
Q: Where can I get a good concealer and how do I apply it? I always seem to get really orange toned concealers that make my skin look spotted. - Sabana
Q: I have tried many under eye concealers and cannot find one that hides the dark circles. Which product(s) do you recommend? I am 42 years old and have had these circles all my life. Thanks. - Claudia

A: A good concealer in a shade that matches your skin tone can really help with dark circles, red areas or veins, blemishes, freckles, or anything else you want to cover. You'll want to choose the formula that is best for the specific area you are trying to conceal. Here's a handy guide:

For blemishes, you want a stick or thicker cream formula with a smooth finish that doesn't look cakey or thick. These types usually work the best because of their staying power. I recommend Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage, Stila "face" concealer, Bobbi Brown Professional Concealer or Foundation Stick, and Garden Botanika Stick Foundation. Apply the concealer with a small, clean makeup brush, dabbing a small amount of concealer on the blemish until it is covered. Use a very gentle touch, and do not rub or over-blend. Once it is covered, apply a thin layer of loose powder over the concealer to "lock" it in.

For everything else including dark under eye circles, spider veins, small freckles, or whatever you want to hide, you can choose from a variety of concealers to suit your taste, from liquid to cream to stick.

As with blemishes, the harder the spot is to cover, the more precise and gentle you'll want to be with your application. For severe under eye circles (dark blue or purple), a medium weight cream tends to stay put and resist creasing better than a liquid. Apply the concealer only to the very dark areas, and blend gently with a few finger taps.

For small red spots, veins, and such, experiment with the different textures to see which works best for you. I like using a semi-creamy product applied with a small makeup brush for just about everything, but you might find a liquid with a sponge applicator is your favorite. A few more brands I like are BeneFit Boi-ing, Stila "eye", Jane No Show, Maybelline Great Wear, and Estee Lauder Uncircle.

Make sure that any concealer you buy is in a color that matches your skin color as closely as possible. You will get the most natural look this way, and it blends more easily if you ever wear the concealer alone without foundation.

 

 

Q: What's the best eye gel for smoothing fine lines under and around the eye area? - Drew H.
Q: I'm 18 and have wrinkles under my eyes. How do I get rid of them? - Cathy
Q: I am 28 years old and I'm starting to get fine lines around my eye area. My regular eye cream and concealer don't seem to help anymore. Is there anything else I can do? - Toni B.

A: The eye area is one of first places on your face to show stress, aging, fatigue - all of the things you'd rather not reveal! The effects come in the form of puffiness, dark circles, fine lines, and crow's feet (those charming lines and creases in the outer corners). Is there anything we can do?

Before we attempt to treat any damage that's already there, it's important to make a commitment to reducing the chance of new damage. This means protection from the sun, and it needs to be a year-round part of your regular skin care. Whether in an eye cream or a regular moisturizer, choose at least an SPF 15 product with a broad-spectrum protection sunscreen ingredient like Parsol 1789, titanium dioxide, or avobenzone. Apply it every day as your final skin care step before your makeup to help prevent lines and wrinkles from sun damage.

Now that you are on the right track to protecting your skin, what can you use for the fine lines you have now? A moisturizing eye cream with ingredients like hyaluronic acid, propylene or butylene glycol, or glycerin that trap water in your skin can plump up the lines temporarily, so they look less pronounced. The key word here, however, is "temporarily", because eye creams only make the eye area look better when you are wearing them. To actually diminish the lines, you enter into the realm of Retin-A, alpha hydroxy acids, and vitamin A (retinol) creams, which can be irritating and costly. Try to get samples of these types of products when you can to see if it might make a difference for you.

To reduce puffiness, your best bet is to treat the affected area with a lightweight eye gel containing chamomile, green tea, cucumber, or aloe. I would also recommend drinking plenty of fluids, using a cool compress or some cucumber slices if you can, and getting enough rest (easier said than done, I know).

You know what kind of product you need, now comes the fun part - shopping! Here are a few of my personal favorites to consider:

L'Oreal Revitalift Eye (around $10) moisturizes the eye area, and absorbs quickly and completely without feeling greasy or heavy. Revitalift Eye easily compares in quality to more expensive creams from Clarins (Extra Firming Eye Contour Cream $42.50), Bobbi Brown (Eye Cream $32.50) or Lancome (Primordiale Yeux $40) - all without the sticker shock. Remember: price does not always equal quality. Just because an eye cream costs $50 and claims to erase years from your face doesn't mean it will.

Avon Anew Perfect Eye Care Cream SPF 15 ($12.50) includes sun protection, which helps prevent wrinkles from sun damage, and its lightweight texture absorbs quickly, perfect for under makeup.

If ever an eye treatment could pass for a slice of real cucumber, Pond's Soothing Cucumber Eye Treatments (around $8 for jar of 24) can! With cucumber, green tea, chamomile, cornflower, orange peel, and rose hip extracts, plus aloe vera gel and vitamin E, these pads feel heavenly after a long day, or while soaking in the tub. Keep them in the fridge for the ultimate cooling sensation.

Clinique All About Eyes ($25) is, in my opinion, the best of Clinique's selection of eye creams. It successfully combines the benefits of a gel (reduces puffiness, feels cooling and soothing on the skin) with the moisturizing and smoothing properties of a cream. The texture is very silky and makes a fantastic base for eye makeup without crumbling or creasing.

I saved my advice about dark circles for last because they are the trickiest concern of all. Creams and gels won't really change the discoloration, and some cases of dark circles are hereditary, meaning no amount of sleep or proper nutrition will make a difference. The best weapon is a good concealer and careful application to hide the shadows. Choose a medium weight cream or stick concealer that matches your overall skin tone and has some yellow in it to counteract the bluish purple of the shadow. Apply it with a small brush and gently tap it into the skin with your finger (don't rub).

Q: I have a problem with eye shadow. It seems that as soon as I put it on, it wears off! Do you have any suggestions on how to make it hang on longer?

A: There are a variety of opinions about how to make eye shadow last longer, so here's mine! Some makeup artists may do it differently, but I've found this method works time and again.

Eye shadow, just like blush, needs something to cling to besides bare skin for it to last. Just like we wear foundation on the skin to keep the rest of the makeup on longer, I always use a concealer or eye shadow base plus a dusting of loose powder before I apply my eye shadow. My personal favorites for an eye shadow base are Bobbi Brown Foundation Stick, Lorac Coverup Cream, and Trish McEvoy Protective Shield Concealer.

Using a clean finger, a clean synthetic makeup brush, or a clean makeup sponge, just dab a small amount of the concealer over your entire eye lid and blend. You can use the same concealer under your eyes to create a completely smooth makeup look. Set the concealer with a dusting of loose powder using a brush, puff, or makeup sponge. Make sure to get under your eyes and in corners to prevent concealer meltdown and creasing. Your canvas is now ready to go! The dry surface and holding power of the concealer should help any eye shadow last longer and stay true.

 

Q: I like to wear eyeliner, but not when I end up looking like a raccoon after just a few hours! I really need an  eyeliner that lines with rich color, yet doesn't smear or come off. What do you recommend?

A: Eyeliner can make the difference between great looking eyes, and a great big disaster! Personally, I only use shadow or cake liners with a lining brush. The look is softer, you have more control over the thickness of the line, the shadow lasts longer and don’t smear like greasy pencils, and you never have to worry about pencil sharpeners. When you first make the switch to shadows instead of pencils, it does take a little getting used to, but you'll quickly see how much better it looks.

Here are a few of my favorite shadows for lining. You can use these wet, too, by just spritzing a little water on your liner brush.

·         Bobbi Brown shadows in Rich Brown, Cocoa, Navy, Charcoal and Mahogany

·         Aziza Daily News eye shadow trio (the darkest brown)

·         FACE Stockholm shadow in Joy

·         MAC shadow in Corduroy

·         Christian Dior shadow liner in Plum

·         Trish McEvoy eye definer #28

I really like the Bobbi Brown and Christian Dior shadows the absolute best for lining because the high pigment content makes the color last longer and stay true all day.

All you need to start lining is a liner brush like Trish McEvoy #11, Bobbi Brown Eye Liner Brush, or any other square-ish, flat brush that has firm bristles. Start by pointing the brush straight down into the shadow, then swipe the edge of the brush across the shadow several times. Tap off any extra, and then use the edge of the brush with the color on it to draw a thin line as close to the base of your lashes as possible. I like to start at the outside corner of the eye and work in to the inner corner. You can work in short strokes if it's easier, rather than trying to draw one long line. I also like to line only the top lid, but you can do the lower the very same way if you like. Experiment to see which "look" suits the shape of your eyes.

Q: I have small eyes. How can I make them appear larger?

A: The most invaluable makeup lesson I've learned over the years is the use of color. Just like in art, light makes things appear larger and more prominent, while darkness and shadows make things appear to recede and look smaller. If you want your eyes to appear larger, choose light to medium eye shadow colors for all over and save the darker shades for lining your eyes. Here's a handy guide to choosing eye shadow colors:

 

If your hair color is...	Then try these shadow colors
Blonde, Light Brown, or Strawberry Blonde/Red	Highlight: light beige or cream Lid: taupe, light gray, or light plum Liner: dark brown, navy, or slate gray
Brown or Auburn	Highlight: beige, very light yellow, or light pink Lid: taupe, medium brown, or slate gray Liner: mahogany, navy, or charcoal
Dark Brown or Black	Highlight: light yellow, light pink, or light brown Lid: chocolate brown, dark gray, or sable Liner: mahogany or charcoal

To make your eyes appear larger, sweep the highlight color you've chosen all over your lid and up to the brow bone. Use a small eye shadow or crease brush to apply a soft sweep of the medium shade in the crease of your lid, or on the outside corner, making sure to blend the color well. To line your eyes, use a flat or angled liner brush to apply the darkest of your three colors in a very thin, soft line along the lash line. Personally, I line only the top lid, not the bottom, but you should try both ways and see which you like better. If you get the liner color as close as possible to the base of your lashes, this technique will also make your lashes appear thicker.

As a finishing touch, apply your favorite mascara on the top lashes only. This makes the eye look larger and more open. You're done!

From Newsgroups:

From kellyfl@aol.com Fri Oct 23 23:23:59 1998

If you have trouble using eyeliner because the make up inside the liner pencil is too hard and thus it pulls on your eye and doesn't come off well enough onto your lid, try Physician's Formula eyeliner. It is softer and comes off onto your eye easily and without pulling.

From AllisonC@ix.netcom.com Tue Oct 13 21:59:45 1998

I can finally contribute!!  There is a simple trick to help with the pencil.  Get a lighter and very quickly move the tip of the pencil through the flame.  It will soften it a little and allow for a lot better coverage.  I've used this trick for years...

 

From saf@best.com Wed Oct 14 17:37:12 1998

Ø      Does anyone make liquid eyeliner anymore?  I can't draw on my eyelids with those stupid pencils, is there some trick to it?

I always found liquid liner hard to apply. I now use a dark eye shadow and a damp eyeliner brush. I get a nice fine line and can control the depth of the color better than with liquid eyeliner.

From Sheila:

I usually use cake liner...and water. My brush is synthetic.... usually white bristle when new...I find natural bristles too soft and wimpy.... unless they're VERY expensive qualities of sable.

From Bill:

One major tip.... if you use a liquid liner...consider taking a clean, damp brush and go over the line to blur and soften it...this is very becoming, and will smooth out irregular lines....  :-)

You can also blur it with damp "Q" tips.

You can also put on a line of dark eye shadow, (like charcoal), with a small brush...this is softer looking than liquid liner.... and especially good on the lower lid.

Please throw away your mascara or liquid liner after about six months...it breeds bacteria in the closed container...and NEVER loan eye makeup to someone else!

1.      "I want to lengthen my lashes"

2.      "I want a high definition mascara"

3.      "I dream of long, curled eyelashes"

4.      "My lashes are thin, I want to thicken them"

5.      "I need a mascara that is sweat-proof, water-proof and weather-proof."

6.      "I want a water-proof mascara"

7.      "I want a fortifying lash conditioner"

Q: I am looking for mascara that won't smudge. I have tried many brands and types including waterproof types but after a while the mascara leaves smudge marks under the eyes. Help!

A: One of the most important steps to preventing eye makeup meltdown is powder. If the eye area is oily, over moisturized, or in any way moist, none of your eye makeup will make it through lunch, let alone through the entire day. Make sure when you moisturize, especially around your eyes, that it has completely absorbed before you apply your makeup. If you have oily skin, powder should be your best friend. Be generous on oily areas, and be sure to press some onto eyelids and around the eye area (lightly, so it doesn't cake). Powder will lock in foundation and concealer and help keep mascara and liner from running.

 

Q: What mascaras are really the best, both from bargain and expensive brands?

A: Mascara can be a very personal cosmetic, but I have some definite favorites! Whether you prefer thickening, lengthening, or just basic defining, here is my complete list of tested mascaras, including a handy rating system.

Simply the Best
**** Bobbi Brown (both defining or thickening formulas)
**** Chanel Instant Lash
**** Max Factor 2000 Calorie

Really Great
*** Jane Flashes
*** Chanel Sculpting Mascara Extreme Length
*** Maybelline Volum Express
*** Almay Amazing Lash Waterproof
*** M Professional
*** Maybelline Lash by Lash
*** Lancome Definicils
*** Estee Lauder More Than Mascara

Good but Pretty Basic
** Stila
** L'Oreal Lash Out
** Nat Robbins Stay Put
** BeneFit
** Mary Kay Conditioning
** English Ideas Duo Lash
** Estee Lauder Lash Luxe
** MAC

People Actually Buy This?
* Jane Outer Limits
* Naturistics Long Shot lengthening mascara
* Maybelline Great Lash
* Garden Botanika
* Cover Girl Natural Lash Darkener

When it comes to mascara, try a few brands to see what suits your eyes the best. Good mascara shouldn't clump, smear, cake, flake, or look spiky, and it doesn't have to cost a fortune. One last tip: always replace your mascara every 3-4 months to prevent eye infections, especially for sensitive eyes and contact lens wearers.

Stila Brow Filler or Brow Definer
Although these colors look just like eye shadows, they actually have more pigment, so you need less and the color will last longer. Just like other powders, simply fill in the bare spots of your brows with a small amount of color applied with a stiff, angled brush. These two shades from Stila are natural and go well with most coloring.

After applying the color, brush through it with an old toothbrush, a clean mascara wand style brush (MAC #24, for example), or a stiff, angled makeup brush. Finally, set the color with a coat of a clear brow gel like Origins Brow Fix to keep the hairs in place. You can even do the gel by itself if you don't need or want any color.

Q: How should blush be applied and where should it start and end?

A: One of the easiest ways to get that healthy color is with blush; however, blush is the one product that is most commonly misused. How many times have you seen a woman with a bright pink or peach streak on her cheeks that is supposed to be blush but looks more like racing stripes? Applying blush the right way is as easy as 1-2-3. Here's how:

1.      If your blush came with one of those little compact size blush brushes, throw it away or use it for eye shadow. Those brushes are way too small and the bristles aren't shaped properly to apply the color in a natural looking way. If it's racing stripes you want, that's just what you'll get with a bad brush. You don't have to spend a fortune on a good blush brush; you just need one that's fairly full and round, with tapered sides for better blending. I personally use MAC's #135 because its soft bristles and rounded shape apply the color very softly for a subtle look.

2.      Don't try to reshape your face with blush and contour colors. You can accentuate your face and your cheeks naturally by just smiling. Smile, and you'll see the apple of your cheeks (the fleshy part that stands out the most), which is the exact spot to put your blush. Swipe your brush across your blush several times, then tap the excess blush off before you apply it to your face. Don't blow on the bristles or you'll introduce the bacteria from your mouth onto the brush. Now that the brush has a light layer of blush on it, apply it to the apples of your cheeks and blend up and back toward your hairline.

3.      Your blush should enhance your face and the rest of your makeup, not compete with it. If you are wearing red lipstick, don't wear peach or bronze blush. For the most natural looking makeup, try to keep all your colors either warm (think peach) or cool (think pink). If you aren't sure what blush color will look best on your skin, just look at your cheeks after you've been exercising. That color is your natural blush color, so keep that color in mind when you are shopping.

Q: I have small lips, and people tell me to wear lip liner outside the natural line of my lips. I've tried it and it just makes me look silly after the liner wears off! What can I do?

A: I've also had makeup counter artists tell me to line outside my natural lip-line to make my lips look fuller, and it looks ridiculous! You really can't physically change whether your lips are thin or full with lip liner, but you can choose lipstick colors that will make them appear fuller. Try wearing light lipstick colors or glosses that have a little shimmer. A few that I like are:

·         Clinique Long Last Soft Shine lipstick in Baby Kiss

·         Aveda gloss in Cinder (if you like brown)

·         Stila gloss in Rose (comes in a silver tube)

·         MAC lipstick in Skew (great new spring color)

·         Origins Slipcovers gloss in Opal

Avoid dark colors like dark wine and berry shades, and deep browns and reds, since they will make your lips appear smaller. Also, use a lip liner that either matches your natural lip color, or matches your lip stick, and line on your natural lip line just for to keep your lip stick from bleeding.

Q: I can't keep my lipstick on for longer than 5 minutes. I have tried all the tricks, but nothing has worked. What can I do? You're my last hope!

A: Lipstick isn't made to last 24 hours, but you can get more from your favorite color with a few simple techniques.

1.      Start with moisturized, but not overly moist, lips
Apply a lip balm or vitamin E stick at least 15 minutes before you apply your lipstick so it can absorb fully.

2.      Choose a long-wearing, matte or demi-matte lipstick formula
Avoid lipsticks that are greasy or very creamy. A few good choices are:

o        any MAC matte formula

o        Maybelline Great Wear

o        Revlon ColorStay

o        L'Oreal Colour Endure or Lancome Rouge Idole

3.      Fill in your lips completely with liner
Choose a liner that either matches your lipstick or your natural lip color, line your lips, and fill them in completely with color. Lip liner is a bit drier than lipstick and will help your lipstick last longer.

4.      Apply, blot, apply, blot, and apply...
Apply your lipstick, blot off the excess, and repeat until you have the depth of color you want. You can also add a light dusting of loose powder over your blotted lips, and then apply the lipstick again to help lock the color in.

5.      Carry your liner and lipstick with you
Have your liner and lipstick handy in case you need to touch up. Your lipstick won't last forever, but these easy tricks will help it at least last through lunch!

Lip Gloss Revolution!

Personal Favorites from our Panelist, Pam

The significance of gloss has crept upon the beauty market in a wondrous way. Now almost every major line of cosmetics has added gloss to the mix. Whether you are a Gloss Novice, or a complete Gloss Maven, there is a gloss choice for everyone.

Gloss Novice
You're a "gloss novice" if you're not quite ready for lip vinyl but are willing to take a chance with a dewy pout. Take those first baby steps with a balm; though not technically a gloss by definition, balms are the easiest way to get a handle on slick lips without having to commit to color and texture variances. Try one of these novice choices:

• Bonne Bell Lip Smacker Dr. Pepper – gentle, transparent, cherry
• Kiehl's Baby Lip Balm – lustrous, jeweled, sheer, very emollient
• Natural Glow Lip Treats Honey – warm, clear, shine
• Old Navy Groovy Grapefruit Lip Balm – smooth, sheer, finish

Gloss Intermediate
If you are ready to experiment with color, texture and application, then you've reached the intermediate stage of Gloss World. Don't be afraid to pick up a wand and give it a whirl, finger-paint or use a brush for application. Once you've mastered the basics, try mixing a gloss with your favorite lip liner and/or dabbed on top of your favorite lipstick. Try one of these intermediate choices:

• Cargo Flin Flon Gloss – opalescent white peach/opalescent white lavender
• Hard Candy Angel - frosty, yellow, beige, pastel
• Lorac Pink Lip Gloss – white-baby-pink, soft shimmer
• Nars Sunset Strip Wand Gloss – sheer/shimmer orange
• Nars Harlow Wand Gloss – sheer,shimmer, lilac, beige
• Poppy Shine Maraschino – moist, berry, glow
• Shu Uemura (Red/Abricot) – sheer, gentle, orange, red shine
• Stila Nude Shine – creamy, light, brown

Gloss Maven
Welcome to the world of a Gloss Maven - shine is now your middle name. Wand, brush or pot gloss, the sky is the limit! Beware though; things could get sticky. Never fear - in the world of gloss, sticky can be a very good thing. Sticky glosses will hold the shine longer and, if worn over a lipstick/lip liner, extend the longevity of application. It's time to try the best of the best maven choices:

• Bobbi Brown Lip Gloss White – pure, creamy, white
• Bobbi Brown Lip Gloss Petal – delicate, salmon, pink
• Clinique Glosswear SPF8 (Honey Bee) – peachy, beige
• FACE Pot Gloss Heavenly – sheer, shimmer, mauve
• Kiehl's Stick Gloss Red – lasting, vibrant, true, red
• Poppy Shine 14K – dense, creamy, white, gold
• Prescriptives Lip Lacquer (Voodoo) – deep, plum, grape
• MAC Lipglass – clear vinyl - extremely sticky
• Revlon Line & Shine Nude – creamy, pink/brown gloss & beige liner
• Nars Lip Lacquer Caribia – sheer, shimmer, copper, brown

M   A   K   E   U   P       T   I   P   S From Profaces

 http://www.profaces.com/

BLUSH

One of the easiest ways to get a healthy look is with blush -- unfortunately, it is often misused. Here is the correct and easy way to apply blush: First, start with a good quality blush brush. You can accentuate your face and cheeks naturally. Smile and you will see the fleshy part that stands out the most; this is the apple of your checks. This is your starting point for applying your blush. Apply a light layer of blush to the apples of your cheeks and blend up and back toward your hairline.

• TIP: Tap off the excess blush from your brush before applying to your face. Do not blow on the bristles or you will put bacteria from your mouth on to the brush. Compact size blush brushes are too small and the bristles are not shaped properly. Once again, use a good quality brush.
• TIP: To find the perfect color blush for your skin, look at your cheeks after you have exercised. That is what your natural blush color should look like.

EYEBROWS

The eyebrows are the most important feature in defining the face. The trick to applying a natural eyebrow shape is using a hard stiff, short brush, and working with colorations instead of pencils. Pencils can be used, but it takes practice and patience to get a natural look.

The first step is tweezing. Start by thinning the eyebrow, and then slowly begin to define the arch. The arch should reach the highest point above the middle of your iris. Thin from that point out. The brows are the frames of your eyes. Don't be afraid to tweeze your eyebrows - BUT NEVER SHAVE YOUR EYEBROWS. Spend your money on a good tweezers.

The general rule of determining the shape of your eyebrow is to hold a pencil vertically alongside your face to the point where the pencil meets your eyebrow. That is the natural starting point. Tweeze the stray hairs between the two starting points. The end point is found by angling the pencil past the outer corner of your eye. Remove stray hairs beyond that spot, and from below your natural arch.

The shape and grooming of your eyebrows will make your eyes look bigger and open up your face more naturally then wearing a lot of makeup. Be careful, as heavy brows will overpower your face. Shape your eyebrows by tweezing the hairs from underneath, not from above.

• TIP: Tweeze after a shower and it will be less painful. Most people have a good natural shape; it just needs to be defined better.
• TIP: Take the color that is the closest to your eyebrow color and fill in the gaps to make a nicely groomed brow. If in doubt, always go a little lighter then your brow.

EYESHADOW

Rule # 1 about eye shadow; when you look at a women's face, you see her eyes not her eye shadow. The general rule is that light shades, bring out your eyes, darker shades give them dimension. If you have small eyes and want to give the impression of larger eyes, you want to stay with lighter shades. If you have large eyes or protruding eyes, you would want to use darker shades. To prevent shadow from creasing, put foundation on your lids first, and then powder. This gives you a clean canvas for your colorations

The first step of applying eye shadow is to apply a light color over your entire eyelid from lash line to brow. Use a large flat eye shadow brush. Always use good quality brushes.

The second step is to apply a medium shadow color on your lower lid from lash line to the crease of your eye. Use a fluff brush.

The third step is to use your darkest color as a liner and apply along your lash line. To insure shadow will not flake, dampen your eyeliner brush before applying shadow. This will make it last longer.

Once your foundation is on, gradually apply lighter shades first, slowly working up to your final color. An important fact to remember is, use colors that blend together naturally. It's not where you place the colors: it's that they work together and blend together invisibly.

• TIP: You do not want this to look like three separate colors.

 

GENERAL TIPS

1.     Be careful with shimmery products, especially on your eyes; they tend to collect in creases.

2.     If you have large and open eyes, don’t use loud or bright colors that will over emphasize the fullness. You want them to be soft and keep a person’s attention.