Make-Up Presentation by Jenelle Rose 9/06/2000

Makeover

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Beauty Essentials

 

Essentials

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Makeup, Body care, Miscellaneous

step by step instructions

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Readers Tips... in Every Category

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Tips For Men

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Skin Care Tips

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Foundation Tips

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Eye Makeup Tips

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Perfume

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Nails and Hand Care

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Lipstick Tips

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Facial Structure

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Miscellaneous Tips

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Glossary

 

Concealer - dab on dark circles, broken capillaries, blemishes, or anything you want to hide

 

Loose Powder - apply with a big, fluffy brush to give a smooth finish to your skin without the heavy look of foundation

Blush - apply lightly to the apples of your cheeks to give you a bit of natural color; skip this step if you are naturally rose-y

Mascara - one coat gives soft but noticeable definition to your eyes

Lip balm, gloss, or sheer lipstick - keep it soft and simple, no lip liner

 

 

 

 

Lancôme:

You have never, or hardly ever, used make-up products. You're concerned about your appearance, but never quite know how to make the most of your natural beauty. You don't dare experiment too much because you're frightened the result might not be exactly what you had in mind! We think you'll be interested by what we've got to say...
Let us guide you towards your first, real make-up successes. As Fred Farrugia once said:

"Make-up should be a game, it should be fun". Experiment, start over, but above all, enjoy yourself!

Beautiful skin is the key to great-looking make-up.

Under-eyes circles? Blemishes? Skin discoloration? Broken capillaries? Shiny skin? Don't let a few imperfections here and there get you down! Even the super models get them sometimes - they just know how to hide them!
And there you are, all made up. No one will notice the make-up, but everybody will suddenly wonder why it is that you're looking so good. That's the magic of make-up with natural, 'built-in' success!

Tonight, you're going to be the most attractive woman out.there! 
You've decided to really go for a total transformation; a look like you might see around the nightclubs. Have fun and relish the transformation, because above all, make-up should be something to enjoy.

A final check in the mirror...and Cinderella shall go to the ball!  This is but the beginning of your voyage of make-up discovery!

Ask The Makeup Diva! ^™

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Q: I keep hearing about alpha hydroxy acids, but I feel clueless!

What are they and what do they do to my skin?

 

A: Alpha hydroxy acid, or AHA, is a general term used to describe a variety of skin-safe acids, like glycolic (derived from sugar cane), malic (derived from apples) and lactic (derived from milk), which exfoliate your skin chemically rather than manually (like with a grainy scrub or washcloth). AHAs slough off the dead skin cells by breaking up the chemical bonds they have with the surface of your skin.

 

What can this exfoliation do for your skin? It is actually great for just about every skin type because it helps eliminate the build-up of dead cells that can clog your pores and cause blemishes, and it can make your skin replace old, damaged cells with new, fresher ones faster. With continued use, an AHA can make fine lines soften, improve your skin's overall texture and color, and reduce the number

and severity of breakouts.

Unfortunately, not all AHAs are created equally, but you don't have to pay $50 or $75 for a fancy department store brand to see results; many of the inexpensive drugstore brands are actually more effective. When shopping for an AHA product, here are a few things to keep in mind:

 

1. Make sure the AHA you choose has at least one of the well known, proven AHA ingredients, like glycolic, lactic, malic, or even tartaric (from red wine) acid. Products labeled with only "miscellaneous fruit acids" have not been proven to work as effectively, although they can sound persuasive from a "natural versus chemical" standpoint.

 

2. AHAs come in lotions, creams, and serums/gels, so choose the one that best suits your skin type. Lotions are great for most any skin type, creams are for drier skin, and serums or gels work well for someone with oily or acne-prone skin.

 

3. AHAs can make your skin more sensitive and vulnerable to sun damage, so be sure to use them in conjunction with a daily sunscreen that has at least SPF 15 broad spectrum protection.

 

4. AHAs can cause some irritation, even if you aren't usually sensitive, so stick to a "less is more" philosophy. If you are just starting with an AHA, use a low percentage (4-5% concentration), gentle product only once a day, or once every other day. If your skin reacts well to it, consider increasing to daily morning and night use.

 

Mild stinging when you first apply an AHA is normal, but it should subside after a minute or two. Continued stinging is not considered normal, so you should immediately stop using any product that irritates your skin. If you try using it again in smaller amounts or less frequently and it still causes a problem, don't be afraid to return it to the store for a refund.

 

Here are a few brands to consider:

 

  o Alpha Hydrox 5% lotion for sensitive skin, 8% lotion, or 10%

     enhanced oil-free gel (glycolic acid)

  o Pond's Age Defying Complex (8% glycolic acid)

  o Avon Anew All-in-One Perfecting Complex (4% glycolic) or

     All-in-One Intensive Complex (8% glycolic)

  o Circle of Beauty All Even AHA serum (8% lactic acid)

  o Neutrogena Healthy Skin Face Lotion (8% glycolic acid)

  o Philosophy Hope in a Jar (lactic acid)

  o BeautiControl Regeneration Gold (lactic and tartaric acids)

 

Q: When is it best to apply a clarifying mask? Before or after cleansing? Moisturizing?

A: Doing a mini-facial at home is a great treat for your skin, and for yourself.

Whether your skin needs purifying, hydrating, or soothing, always start with clean skin. Use a mild, nondrying cleanser, rinse thoroughly, and pat dry. Apply your mask of choice following the product instructions. When the mask is "done", remove it gently, usually with a warm washcloth (unless it's a peel-off variety), and splash your skin thoroughly with lukewarm to cool water. Follow up with your favorite toner or freshener, and then apply your moisturizer or night treatment.

It's that easy! For normal skin, I recommend a mask once a week. For oily skin, two to three times a week is a great way to keep oil and breakouts at bay. If you have dry skin, a hydrating mask once a week can really help, but keep the deep cleansing varieties for once-a-month treatments.

Q: Is there a logical way to apply makeup? What should I apply first and last? - Pat L.

A: Although there are variations to applying things like lipstick and eye shadow, putting on basic makeup like foundation and concealer are as easy as 1-2-3!

Always start with a clean, moisturized face. If you wear foundation, you'll apply this first, either all over your face or just in the spots you need it - whichever method you prefer. I like to apply foundation all over so my skin looks as even as it can. Note: if you use a powder-based, two-in-one style foundation like MAC Studio Fix, Stila Illuminating Powder, Aveda Dual Base minus Oil, or Cover Girl Simply Powder, you can skip right to your color cosmetics after applying your foundation. You don't need extra concealer or powder.

Your second step, if you have any areas that weren't covered by your foundation and need extra attention, like dark undereye circles, blemishes, red spots, or broken capillaries, is where concealer comes in. Apply it with your fingers, a clean sponge, or a makeup brush in gentle, dabbing strokes, then tap carefully with your fingertip around the edges to blend. You can also apply concealer to your eyelids for a really smooth look. It will even out any blotchy skin tone and will help your eye shadow stay on longer.

The third step after foundation and concealer is powder. Even dry skin can benefit from the right powder because it sets your makeup for longer wear throughout the day. I like loose powder better than pressed because the finish is lighter. Apply it lightly with a large powder brush, making sure to dust a little under your eyes to set your concealer (helps prevent creasing).

With your basic makeup finished, the rest is really up to your own preference. Here are a few guidelines: If you use eye makeup, I recommend you apply your shadows first, then liner, then mascara. The mascara will seal in any eye shadow that falls on your lashes and actually make them look thicker.

• Apply your blush after foundation and eye makeup so you can adjust the intensity of the color to suit the rest of your face.
• Lip liner can come either before or after lipstick depending on your needs. If you like having an outline to fill in, apply liner first and then lipstick - just make sure to blend the edges with a lip brush or cotton swab so you don't have an obvious line. If you feel confident with applying lipstick, I recommend putting your lipstick on first, then liner. I find the colors last longer this way and it tends to look more polished.

 

Q: What is the best sequence for applying my base make-up?

A: Ask five makeup artists what the best order is to apply your makeup, and you'll probably get five different answers. We all have our own opinions on how to make you look you best. Personally, I think my method is simple, fast, and you'll still look like you when you're done! Here are my easy steps:

1.      Start with a clean, moisturized face.

2.      Apply your favorite foundation in a shade that matches your skin color exactly. Blend multiple shades together if necessary to get a perfect match. Foundation acts as the canvas for everything else, so apply a thin, even layer by blending thoroughly and carefully. If you can see a difference between the color of your face and the color of your neck, you are using the wrong shade.

If you are happy with the tone of your skin and you don't think you need foundation, skip this step.

3.      After you've applied your foundation, or if you don't need foundation, if you have any blemishes, dark under-eye circles, birthmarks, scars, or anything else that you'd like to cover with makeup, use a concealer. Concealers come in a variety of forms, from stick to cream to pencil. For under eye circles, choose a creamy stick or medium weight cream that will look smooth without creasing or caking under your eyes. I like Bobbi Brown's foundation stick, Stila's eye concealer, or Revlon New Complexion oil-free the best. You can also use a stick or cream for blemishes as long as the formula you choose doesn't make the pimple worse. Longwearing formulas like Almay Amazing Lasting and Maybelline Great Wear also work well on blemishes. For birthmarks, scars, or anything that needs full coverage, a thick cream concealer is your best bet. These take more work and more patience to apply and blend, but it's worth it. I like BeneFit Boi-ing!, Prestige Extreme Cover, and Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage. Apply your concealer either with a clean finger or a small, clean makeup brush. Apply with a gentle, tapping motion, patting the concealer into place, then carefully smooth and blend the edges so they aren't noticeable. Do not rub the concealer in, or you'll rub it right off and ruin the rest of your makeup.

4.      To complete your "canvas", you need powder. Choose a formula that suits your skin type, and apply a thin layer with a big, soft powder brush. Powder is very important because it locks in your foundation and concealer for longer, better wear. After I've dusted a thin layer all over my face, I like to apply a small amount of loose powder with the tip of a clean finger to any blemishes that I've applied concealer, on my eye lids, and under my eyes to lock in the concealer (don't do this if you have a lot of wrinkles, or the powder will accentuate them). Use your powder brush to dust off any excess.

Q: The choices in foundation are so overwhelming! What are some of your favorites?

A: Foundation is one of the most important steps in your makeup routine. It can make your skin look its best, even if you're having a less-than-perfect skin day. Whether you like sheer, medium, or full coverage, there are definitely plenty of choices for everyone's tastes. Of all the brands and formulas to choose from, here are my foundation favorites in three main categories: Liquid, Powder, and Stick.

Liquids
Tired of thick, cake-y makeup that makes you feel like a circus clown? Thanks to advanced technology and a wider selection of colors, today's foundations can make your skin look fresher and more radiant than ever before. The color selections are better than ever, too, with more choices in light and dark tones as well as more yellow-based colors. For any skin type, these are the three I've found are the best of the new liquids:

1. Lorac Oil-Free (for normal to oily skin) or Satin (for drier skin or a dewy finish) Makeup
2. Maybelline True Illusion
3. 5S Base Color SPF 12 (5S is a spin-off line from Shiseido)

Powder and Cream-to-Powder
Today's impressive selection of powder and cream-to-powder foundations are a great alternative to liquid. They give a smooth, even finish in a few strokes, and they are totally portable for easy touch-ups. My favorites are:

1. Prescriptives Photochrome Light Adjusting Compact Makeup SPF 15
2. Stila Illuminating Powder Foundation SPF 12
3. Shiseido Liquid Compact Makeup SPF 15
4. Vincent Longo Water Canvas
5. Revlon New Complexion One-Step Makeup

Stick
For those of us who like quick, simplified makeup, stick foundations are worth considering, especially for drier skin. They are easy to apply and can be used all over, or just as concealer for dark circles, on eyelids as eye shadow base - wherever!

1. Garden Botanika Stick Foundation
2. Estee Lauder Minute Makeup
3. Bobbi Brown Foundation Stick

Find Your Best Color

1 Test foundation on your cheek (if you're department-store shopping) to find the one that most closely resembles your skin tone. If you're in a drugstore, stand as close to a window as you can and match the bottle color to your cheek.

2 Always go for yellow-based foundations (those that brighten skin, rather than making it look sallow). Why? Yellow-based foundations neutralize blue and red tones and blend beautifully into every skin color (including African-American and Asian).

3 Stick with yellow-based concealer that is one shade lighter than your skin (if it blends perfectly with your skin, the way foundation should, it won't cover anything).

4 Set your makeup with translucent or colored powder that matches your foundation. Beware: Not all-translucent powder is colorless.

Q: I'm looking for a good oil-free foundation... Any suggestions? - Kim S.
Q: What exactly is the purpose of stick foundation? Is it just to be used as concealer or can you use it for all over coverage? - Angie N.
Q: I don't like to look "made up", but need something to even out my skin tone. I also have problems with breakouts, so I need to be careful not to clog my pores. Can you recommend a good, light, sheer, natural looking foundation? Thanks for your help. - Debra
Q: Are the combination foundation & powder compacts any good? If they are any good, which ones are better? - Andrea S.

A: With so many different brands and formulas out there, choosing a foundation that's right for you can be a real challenge. To find the right formula, and the right color, you need to know your skin. Are you oily? Dry? Only oily in spots? Sensitive? Normal? Knowing your skin type helps eliminate foundation formulas that aren't designed for your skin type.

For instance, if you have very dry skin that has flaky patches, a powder foundation will only make you feel drier, and it will accentuate any dry, flaky skin on your face. A liquid foundation with emollient ingredients like plant oils is a better choice for dry skin.

Here are a few handy guidelines for choosing the foundation that works best for your skin, as well as a list of my favorites by skin type (some are listed in more than one category):

For Normal Skin
Lucky you! You can use pretty much anything that suits your taste. Experiment with liquids, creams, powders, and sticks to see what you, and your skin, like the best. Powder foundations are, in my opinion, the easiest to use on normal skin and always look great. Always choose a shade that matches perfectly with your skin color (test the shade along your lower cheek just above the jaw-line for the best match; the right shade should seem to disappear). I'd recommend starting with:

Aveda Dual Performance Creme Powder
Bobbi Brown Foundation Stick
Estee Lauder Lucidity
FACE Stockholm Matte liquid
5S Base Color liquid
Garden Botanika Tinted Moisturizer
Lancome Eau de Teint
Lorac Oil-Free Makeup
MAC EP-T tinted moisturizer
MAC Studio Fix powder
Mary Kay Day Radiance liquid
Maybelline True Illusion liquid or liquid-to-powder
Prescriptives Virtual Skin
Prescriptives Exact Matchstick
Shiseido Liquid Compact cream-to-powder
Stila Oil-Free liquid
Stila Complete Coverage
Vincent Longo Water Canvas cream-to-powder

For Oily/Acne Prone Skin
Keeping shine under control, ensuring all day wear, and preventing breakouts are your biggest challenges. Look for an oil-free, oil-control formula that has the level of coverage you need (full for covering pimples and acne scars, sheer to medium if you don't have too much to hide). Always choose a shade that matches perfectly with your skin color (test the shade along your lower cheek just above the jaw-line for the best match; the right shade should seem to disappear). I recommend trying:

BeneFit Matte Tint
Estee Lauder Double Matte liquid
Laura Mercier Oil-Free Foundation
MAC Studio Fix powder
Maybelline Great Wear liquid
Revlon ColorStay Lite
Trish McEvoy Natural Tint Oil-Free liquid
Vincent Longo Water Canvas cream-to-powder

For Dry Skin
Not only does your skin need extra moisture, but you want a foundation that doesn't cake on fine lines or flaky patches. Creams and sticks are the best choices with liquids at a close second. If you are very dry, look for a formula that contains moisturizing natural plant oils. Always choose a shade that matches perfectly with your skin color (test the shade along your lower cheek just above the jaw-line for the best match; the right shade should seem to disappear). I recommend trying:

Bobbi Brown Foundation Stick
Bobbi Brown Moisturizing Foundation
Estee Lauder Minute Makeup stick
Garden Botanika Foundation Stick
Laura Mercier Moisturizing Foundation
Lorac Satin Makeup liquid
MAC Satin Finish liquid
Maybelline True Illusion liquid
Shiseido Benefiance Enriched Revitalizing Foundation
Stila Complete Coverage cream

Shopping for foundation can be time consuming, expensive, and frustrating, but don't give up. A smooth, even complexion, whether it's natural or from a bottle, is the best canvas for any makeup you wear.

Q: I keep reading conflicting advice about how to put on foundation. Which is better: using a makeup sponge or just your fingers?

A: When it comes to the "correct" way to apply makeup, most makeup artists have different ideas of what's "right" and what's "wrong". Here are some things to consider about applying foundation:

Using your fingers:

·         Gives you hands-on control over where the product goes

·         Warms the foundation so it spreads more easily

·         Gives a full coverage look

·         Allows for precise blending in hard-to-reach areas (like around your nose and eyes)

Using a sponge:

·         Is sanitary and won't transfer oils from your hands to your face

·         Gives a sheer or medium coverage look that is more natural than full coverage

·         Gives a very smooth and even application

Personally, I like using a sponge because I don't want to risk transferring oils and bacteria from my hands to my face (especially in acne-prone areas), I like the control I have with a sponge, and the look and feel of the makeup is more polished. I find using my fingers can get messy and often look uneven. Try both and see which method works best for you!

Q: What kind of concealer covers up acne the best? - Lydia M.
Q: Where can I get a good concealer and how do I apply it? I always seem to get really orange toned concealers that make my skin look spotted. - Sabana
Q: I have tried many under eye concealers and cannot find one that hides the dark circles. Which product(s) do you recommend? I am 42 years old and have had these circles all my life. Thanks. - Claudia

A: A good concealer in a shade that matches your skin tone can really help with dark circles, red areas or veins, blemishes, freckles, or anything else you want to cover. You'll want to choose the formula that is best for the specific area you are trying to conceal. Here's a handy guide:

For blemishes, you want a stick or thicker cream formula with a smooth finish that doesn't look cakey or thick. These types usually work the best because of their staying power. I recommend Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage, Stila "face" concealer, Bobbi Brown Professional Concealer or Foundation Stick, and Garden Botanika Stick Foundation. Apply the concealer with a small, clean makeup brush, dabbing a small amount of concealer on the blemish until it is covered. Use a very gentle touch, and do not rub or over-blend. Once it is covered, apply a thin layer of loose powder over the concealer to "lock" it in.

For everything else including dark under eye circles, spider veins, small freckles, or whatever you want to hide, you can choose from a variety of concealers to suit your taste, from liquid to cream to stick.

As with blemishes, the harder the spot is to cover, the more precise and gentle you'll want to be with your application. For severe under eye circles (dark blue or purple), a medium weight cream tends to stay put and resist creasing better than a liquid. Apply the concealer only to the very dark areas, and blend gently with a few finger taps.

For small red spots, veins, and such, experiment with the different textures to see which works best for you. I like using a semi-creamy product applied with a small makeup brush for just about everything, but you might find a liquid with a sponge applicator is your favorite. A few more brands I like are BeneFit Boi-ing, Stila "eye", Jane No Show, Maybelline Great Wear, and Estee Lauder Uncircle.

Make sure that any concealer you buy is in a color that matches your skin color as closely as possible. You will get the most natural look this way, and it blends more easily if you ever wear the concealer alone without foundation.

 

 

Q: What's the best eye gel for smoothing fine lines under and around the eye area? - Drew H.
Q: I'm 18 and have wrinkles under my eyes. How do I get rid of them? - Cathy
Q: I am 28 years old and I'm starting to get fine lines around my eye area. My regular eye cream and concealer don't seem to help anymore. Is there anything else I can do? - Toni B.

A: The eye area is one of first places on your face to show stress, aging, fatigue - all of the things you'd rather not reveal! The effects come in the form of puffiness, dark circles, fine lines, and crow's feet (those charming lines and creases in the outer corners). Is there anything we can do?

Before we attempt to treat any damage that's already there, it's important to make a commitment to reducing the chance of new damage. This means protection from the sun, and it needs to be a year-round part of your regular skin care. Whether in an eye cream or a regular moisturizer, choose at least an SPF 15 product with a broad-spectrum protection sunscreen ingredient like Parsol 1789, titanium dioxide, or avobenzone. Apply it every day as your final skin care step before your makeup to help prevent lines and wrinkles from sun damage.

Now that you are on the right track to protecting your skin, what can you use for the fine lines you have now? A moisturizing eye cream with ingredients like hyaluronic acid, propylene or butylene glycol, or glycerin that trap water in your skin can plump up the lines temporarily, so they look less pronounced. The key word here, however, is "temporarily", because eye creams only make the eye area look better when you are wearing them. To actually diminish the lines, you enter into the realm of Retin-A, alpha hydroxy acids, and vitamin A (retinol) creams, which can be irritating and costly. Try to get samples of these types of products when you can to see if it might make a difference for you.

To reduce puffiness, your best bet is to treat the affected area with a lightweight eye gel containing chamomile, green tea, cucumber, or aloe. I would also recommend drinking plenty of fluids, using a cool compress or some cucumber slices if you can, and getting enough rest (easier said than done, I know).

You know what kind of product you need, now comes the fun part - shopping! Here are a few of my personal favorites to consider:

L'Oreal Revitalift Eye (around $10) moisturizes the eye area, and absorbs quickly and completely without feeling greasy or heavy. Revitalift Eye easily compares in quality to more expensive creams from Clarins (Extra Firming Eye Contour Cream $42.50), Bobbi Brown (Eye Cream $32.50) or Lancome (Primordiale Yeux $40) - all without the sticker shock. Remember: price does not always equal quality. Just because an eye cream costs $50 and claims to erase years from your face doesn't mean it will.

Avon Anew Perfect Eye Care Cream SPF 15 ($12.50) includes sun protection, which helps prevent wrinkles from sun damage, and its lightweight texture absorbs quickly, perfect for under makeup.

If ever an eye treatment could pass for a slice of real cucumber, Pond's Soothing Cucumber Eye Treatments (around $8 for jar of 24) can! With cucumber, green tea, chamomile, cornflower, orange peel, and rose hip extracts, plus aloe vera gel and vitamin E, these pads feel heavenly after a long day, or while soaking in the tub. Keep them in the fridge for the ultimate cooling sensation.

Clinique All About Eyes ($25) is, in my opinion, the best of Clinique's selection of eye creams. It successfully combines the benefits of a gel (reduces puffiness, feels cooling and soothing on the skin) with the moisturizing and smoothing properties of a cream. The texture is very silky and makes a fantastic base for eye makeup without crumbling or creasing.

I saved my advice about dark circles for last because they are the trickiest concern of all. Creams and gels won't really change the discoloration, and some cases of dark circles are hereditary, meaning no amount of sleep or proper nutrition will make a difference. The best weapon is a good concealer and careful application to hide the shadows. Choose a medium weight cream or stick concealer that matches your overall skin tone and has some yellow in it to counteract the bluish purple of the shadow. Apply it with a small brush and gently tap it into the skin with your finger (don't rub).

Q: I have a problem with eye shadow. It seems that as soon as I put it on, it wears off! Do you have any suggestions on how to make it hang on longer?

A: There are a variety of opinions about how to make eye shadow last longer, so here's mine! Some makeup artists may do it differently, but I've found this method works time and again.

Eye shadow, just like blush, needs something to cling to besides bare skin for it to last. Just like we wear foundation on the skin to keep the rest of the makeup on longer, I always use a concealer or eye shadow base plus a dusting of loose powder before I apply my eye shadow. My personal favorites for an eye shadow base are Bobbi Brown Foundation Stick, Lorac Coverup Cream, and Trish McEvoy Protective Shield Concealer.

Using a clean finger, a clean synthetic makeup brush, or a clean makeup sponge, just dab a small amount of the concealer over your entire eye lid and blend. You can use the same concealer under your eyes to create a completely smooth makeup look. Set the concealer with a dusting of loose powder using a brush, puff, or makeup sponge. Make sure to get under your eyes and in corners to prevent concealer meltdown and creasing. Your canvas is now ready to go! The dry surface and holding power of the concealer should help any eye shadow last longer and stay true.

 

Q: I like to wear eyeliner, but not when I end up looking like a raccoon after just a few hours! I really need an  eyeliner that lines with rich color, yet doesn't smear or come off. What do you recommend?

A: Eyeliner can make the difference between great looking eyes, and a great big disaster! Personally, I only use shadow or cake liners with a lining brush. The look is softer, you have more control over the thickness of the line, the shadow lasts longer and don’t smear like greasy pencils, and you never have to worry about pencil sharpeners. When you first make the switch to shadows instead of pencils, it does take a little getting used to, but you'll quickly see how much better it looks.

Here are a few of my favorite shadows for lining. You can use these wet, too, by just spritzing a little water on your liner brush.

·         Bobbi Brown shadows in Rich Brown, Cocoa, Navy, Charcoal and Mahogany

·         Aziza Daily News eye shadow trio (the darkest brown)

·         FACE Stockholm shadow in Joy

·         MAC shadow in Corduroy

·         Christian Dior shadow liner in Plum

·         Trish McEvoy eye definer #28

I really like the Bobbi Brown and Christian Dior shadows the absolute best for lining because the high pigment content makes the color last longer and stay true all day.

All you need to start lining is a liner brush like Trish McEvoy #11, Bobbi Brown Eye Liner Brush, or any other square-ish, flat brush that has firm bristles. Start by pointing the brush straight down into the shadow, then swipe the edge of the brush across the shadow several times. Tap off any extra, and then use the edge of the brush with the color on it to draw a thin line as close to the base of your lashes as possible. I like to start at the outside corner of the eye and work in to the inner corner. You can work in short strokes if it's easier, rather than trying to draw one long line. I also like to line only the top lid, but you can do the lower the very same way if you like. Experiment to see which "look" suits the shape of your eyes.

Q: I have small eyes. How can I make them appear larger?

A: The most invaluable makeup lesson I've learned over the years is the use of color. Just like in art, light makes things appear larger and more prominent, while darkness and shadows make things appear to recede and look smaller. If you want your eyes to appear larger, choose light to medium eye shadow colors for all over and save the darker shades for lining your eyes. Here's a handy guide to choosing eye shadow colors:

 

If your hair color is...	Then try these shadow colors
Blonde, Light Brown, or Strawberry Blonde/Red	Highlight: light beige or cream Lid: taupe, light gray, or light plum Liner: dark brown, navy, or slate gray
Brown or Auburn	Highlight: beige, very light yellow, or light pink Lid: taupe, medium brown, or slate gray Liner: mahogany, navy, or charcoal
Dark Brown or Black	Highlight: light yellow, light pink, or light brown Lid: chocolate brown, dark gray, or sable Liner: mahogany or charcoal

To make your eyes appear larger, sweep the highlight color you've chosen all over your lid and up to the brow bone. Use a small eye shadow or crease brush to apply a soft sweep of the medium shade in the crease of your lid, or on the outside corner, making sure to blend the color well. To line your eyes, use a flat or angled liner brush to apply the darkest of your three colors in a very thin, soft line along the lash line. Personally, I line only the top lid, not the bottom, but you should try both ways and see which you like better. If you get the liner color as close as possible to the base of your lashes, this technique will also make your lashes appear thicker.

As a finishing touch, apply your favorite mascara on the top lashes only. This makes the eye look larger and more open. You're done!

From Newsgroups:

From kellyfl@aol.com Fri Oct 23 23:23:59 1998

If you have trouble using eyeliner because the make up inside the liner pencil is too hard and thus it pulls on your eye and doesn't come off well enough onto your lid, try Physician's Formula eyeliner. It is softer and comes off onto your eye easily and without pulling.

From AllisonC@ix.netcom.com Tue Oct 13 21:59:45 1998

I can finally contribute!!  There is a simple trick to help with the pencil.  Get a lighter and very quickly move the tip of the pencil through the flame.  It will soften it a little and allow for a lot better coverage.  I've used this trick for years...

 

From saf@best.com Wed Oct 14 17:37:12 1998

Ø      Does anyone make liquid eyeliner anymore?  I can't draw on my eyelids with those stupid pencils, is there some trick to it?

I always found liquid liner hard to apply. I now use a dark eye shadow and a damp eyeliner brush. I get a nice fine line and can control the depth of the color better than with liquid eyeliner.

From Sheila:

I usually use cake liner...and water. My brush is synthetic.... usually white bristle when new...I find natural bristles too soft and wimpy.... unless they're VERY expensive qualities of sable.

From Bill:

One major tip.... if you use a liquid liner...consider taking a clean, damp brush and go over the line to blur and soften it...this is very becoming, and will smooth out irregular lines....  :-)

You can also blur it with damp "Q" tips.

You can also put on a line of dark eye shadow, (like charcoal), with a small brush...this is softer looking than liquid liner.... and especially good on the lower lid.

Please throw away your mascara or liquid liner after about six months...it breeds bacteria in the closed container...and NEVER loan eye makeup to someone else!

1.      "I want to lengthen my lashes"

2.      "I want a high definition mascara"

3.      "I dream of long, curled eyelashes"

4.      "My lashes are thin, I want to thicken them"

5.      "I need a mascara that is sweat-proof, water-proof and weather-proof."

6.      "I want a water-proof mascara"

7.      "I want a fortifying lash conditioner"

Q: I am looking for mascara that won't smudge. I have tried many brands and types including waterproof types but after a while the mascara leaves smudge marks under the eyes. Help!

A: One of the most important steps to preventing eye makeup meltdown is powder. If the eye area is oily, over moisturized, or in any way moist, none of your eye makeup will make it through lunch, let alone through the entire day. Make sure when you moisturize, especially around your eyes, that it has completely absorbed before you apply your makeup. If you have oily skin, powder should be your best friend. Be generous on oily areas, and be sure to press some onto eyelids and around the eye area (lightly, so it doesn't cake). Powder will lock in foundation and concealer and help keep mascara and liner from running.

 

Q: What mascaras are really the best, both from bargain and expensive brands?

A: Mascara can be a very personal cosmetic, but I have some definite favorites! Whether you prefer thickening, lengthening, or just basic defining, here is my complete list of tested mascaras, including a handy rating system.

Simply the Best
**** Bobbi Brown (both defining or thickening formulas)
**** Chanel Instant Lash
**** Max Factor 2000 Calorie

Really Great
*** Jane Flashes
*** Chanel Sculpting Mascara Extreme Length
*** Maybelline Volum Express
*** Almay Amazing Lash Waterproof
*** M Professional
*** Maybelline Lash by Lash
*** Lancome Definicils
*** Estee Lauder More Than Mascara

Good but Pretty Basic
** Stila
** L'Oreal Lash Out
** Nat Robbins Stay Put
** BeneFit
** Mary Kay Conditioning
** English Ideas Duo Lash
** Estee Lauder Lash Luxe
** MAC

People Actually Buy This?
* Jane Outer Limits
* Naturistics Long Shot lengthening mascara
* Maybelline Great Lash
* Garden Botanika
* Cover Girl Natural Lash Darkener

When it comes to mascara, try a few brands to see what suits your eyes the best. Good mascara shouldn't clump, smear, cake, flake, or look spiky, and it doesn't have to cost a fortune. One last tip: always replace your mascara every 3-4 months to prevent eye infections, especially for sensitive eyes and contact lens wearers.

Stila Brow Filler or Brow Definer
Although these colors look just like eye shadows, they actually have more pigment, so you need less and the color will last longer. Just like other powders, simply fill in the bare spots of your brows with a small amount of color applied with a stiff, angled brush. These two shades from Stila are natural and go well with most coloring.

After applying the color, brush through it with an old toothbrush, a clean mascara wand style brush (MAC #24, for example), or a stiff, angled makeup brush. Finally, set the color with a coat of a clear brow gel like Origins Brow Fix to keep the hairs in place. You can even do the gel by itself if you don't need or want any color.

Q: How should blush be applied and where should it start and end?

A: One of the easiest ways to get that healthy color is with blush; however, blush is the one product that is most commonly misused. How many times have you seen a woman with a bright pink or peach streak on her cheeks that is supposed to be blush but looks more like racing stripes? Applying blush the right way is as easy as 1-2-3. Here's how:

1.      If your blush came with one of those little compact size blush brushes, throw it away or use it for eye shadow. Those brushes are way too small and the bristles aren't shaped properly to apply the color in a natural looking way. If it's racing stripes you want, that's just what you'll get with a bad brush. You don't have to spend a fortune on a good blush brush; you just need one that's fairly full and round, with tapered sides for better blending. I personally use MAC's #135 because its soft bristles and rounded shape apply the color very softly for a subtle look.

2.      Don't try to reshape your face with blush and contour colors. You can accentuate your face and your cheeks naturally by just smiling. Smile, and you'll see the apple of your cheeks (the fleshy part that stands out the most), which is the exact spot to put your blush. Swipe your brush across your blush several times, then tap the excess blush off before you apply it to your face. Don't blow on the bristles or you'll introduce the bacteria from your mouth onto the brush. Now that the brush has a light layer of blush on it, apply it to the apples of your cheeks and blend up and back toward your hairline.

3.      Your blush should enhance your face and the rest of your makeup, not compete with it. If you are wearing red lipstick, don't wear peach or bronze blush. For the most natural looking makeup, try to keep all your colors either warm (think peach) or cool (think pink). If you aren't sure what blush color will look best on your skin, just look at your cheeks after you've been exercising. That color is your natural blush color, so keep that color in mind when you are shopping.

Q: I have small lips, and people tell me to wear lip liner outside the natural line of my lips. I've tried it and it just makes me look silly after the liner wears off! What can I do?

A: I've also had makeup counter artists tell me to line outside my natural lip-line to make my lips look fuller, and it looks ridiculous! You really can't physically change whether your lips are thin or full with lip liner, but you can choose lipstick colors that will make them appear fuller. Try wearing light lipstick colors or glosses that have a little shimmer. A few that I like are:

·         Clinique Long Last Soft Shine lipstick in Baby Kiss

·         Aveda gloss in Cinder (if you like brown)

·         Stila gloss in Rose (comes in a silver tube)

·         MAC lipstick in Skew (great new spring color)

·         Origins Slipcovers gloss in Opal

Avoid dark colors like dark wine and berry shades, and deep browns and reds, since they will make your lips appear smaller. Also, use a lip liner that either matches your natural lip color, or matches your lip stick, and line on your natural lip line just for to keep your lip stick from bleeding.

Q: I can't keep my lipstick on for longer than 5 minutes. I have tried all the tricks, but nothing has worked. What can I do? You're my last hope!

A: Lipstick isn't made to last 24 hours, but you can get more from your favorite color with a few simple techniques.

1.      Start with moisturized, but not overly moist, lips
Apply a lip balm or vitamin E stick at least 15 minutes before you apply your lipstick so it can absorb fully.

2.      Choose a long-wearing, matte or demi-matte lipstick formula
Avoid lipsticks that are greasy or very creamy. A few good choices are:

o        any MAC matte formula

o        Maybelline Great Wear

o        Revlon ColorStay

o        L'Oreal Colour Endure or Lancome Rouge Idole

3.      Fill in your lips completely with liner
Choose a liner that either matches your lipstick or your natural lip color, line your lips, and fill them in completely with color. Lip liner is a bit drier than lipstick and will help your lipstick last longer.

4.      Apply, blot, apply, blot, and apply...
Apply your lipstick, blot off the excess, and repeat until you have the depth of color you want. You can also add a light dusting of loose powder over your blotted lips, and then apply the lipstick again to help lock the color in.

5.      Carry your liner and lipstick with you
Have your liner and lipstick handy in case you need to touch up. Your lipstick won't last forever, but these easy tricks will help it at least last through lunch!

Lip Gloss Revolution!

Personal Favorites from our Panelist, Pam

The significance of gloss has crept upon the beauty market in a wondrous way. Now almost every major line of cosmetics has added gloss to the mix. Whether you are a Gloss Novice, or a complete Gloss Maven, there is a gloss choice for everyone.

Gloss Novice
You're a "gloss novice" if you're not quite ready for lip vinyl but are willing to take a chance with a dewy pout. Take those first baby steps with a balm; though not technically a gloss by definition, balms are the easiest way to get a handle on slick lips without having to commit to color and texture variances. Try one of these novice choices:

• Bonne Bell Lip Smacker Dr. Pepper – gentle, transparent, cherry
• Kiehl's Baby Lip Balm – lustrous, jeweled, sheer, very emollient
• Natural Glow Lip Treats Honey – warm, clear, shine
• Old Navy Groovy Grapefruit Lip Balm – smooth, sheer, finish

Gloss Intermediate
If you are ready to experiment with color, texture and application, then you've reached the intermediate stage of Gloss World. Don't be afraid to pick up a wand and give it a whirl, finger-paint or use a brush for application. Once you've mastered the basics, try mixing a gloss with your favorite lip liner and/or dabbed on top of your favorite lipstick. Try one of these intermediate choices:

• Cargo Flin Flon Gloss – opalescent white peach/opalescent white lavender
• Hard Candy Angel - frosty, yellow, beige, pastel
• Lorac Pink Lip Gloss – white-baby-pink, soft shimmer
• Nars Sunset Strip Wand Gloss – sheer/shimmer orange
• Nars Harlow Wand Gloss – sheer,shimmer, lilac, beige
• Poppy Shine Maraschino – moist, berry, glow
• Shu Uemura (Red/Abricot) – sheer, gentle, orange, red shine
• Stila Nude Shine – creamy, light, brown

Gloss Maven
Welcome to the world of a Gloss Maven - shine is now your middle name. Wand, brush or pot gloss, the sky is the limit! Beware though; things could get sticky. Never fear - in the world of gloss, sticky can be a very good thing. Sticky glosses will hold the shine longer and, if worn over a lipstick/lip liner, extend the longevity of application. It's time to try the best of the best maven choices:

• Bobbi Brown Lip Gloss White – pure, creamy, white
• Bobbi Brown Lip Gloss Petal – delicate, salmon, pink
• Clinique Glosswear SPF8 (Honey Bee) – peachy, beige
• FACE Pot Gloss Heavenly – sheer, shimmer, mauve
• Kiehl's Stick Gloss Red – lasting, vibrant, true, red
• Poppy Shine 14K – dense, creamy, white, gold
• Prescriptives Lip Lacquer (Voodoo) – deep, plum, grape
• MAC Lipglass – clear vinyl - extremely sticky
• Revlon Line & Shine Nude – creamy, pink/brown gloss & beige liner
• Nars Lip Lacquer Caribia – sheer, shimmer, copper, brown

M   A   K   E   U   P       T   I   P   S From Profaces

 http://www.profaces.com/

BLUSH

One of the easiest ways to get a healthy look is with blush -- unfortunately, it is often misused. Here is the correct and easy way to apply blush: First, start with a good quality blush brush. You can accentuate your face and cheeks naturally. Smile and you will see the fleshy part that stands out the most; this is the apple of your checks. This is your starting point for applying your blush. Apply a light layer of blush to the apples of your cheeks and blend up and back toward your hairline.

• TIP: Tap off the excess blush from your brush before applying to your face. Do not blow on the bristles or you will put bacteria from your mouth on to the brush. Compact size blush brushes are too small and the bristles are not shaped properly. Once again, use a good quality brush.
• TIP: To find the perfect color blush for your skin, look at your cheeks after you have exercised. That is what your natural blush color should look like.

EYEBROWS

The eyebrows are the most important feature in defining the face. The trick to applying a natural eyebrow shape is using a hard stiff, short brush, and working with colorations instead of pencils. Pencils can be used, but it takes practice and patience to get a natural look.

The first step is tweezing. Start by thinning the eyebrow, and then slowly begin to define the arch. The arch should reach the highest point above the middle of your iris. Thin from that point out. The brows are the frames of your eyes. Don't be afraid to tweeze your eyebrows - BUT NEVER SHAVE YOUR EYEBROWS. Spend your money on a good tweezers.

The general rule of determining the shape of your eyebrow is to hold a pencil vertically alongside your face to the point where the pencil meets your eyebrow. That is the natural starting point. Tweeze the stray hairs between the two starting points. The end point is found by angling the pencil past the outer corner of your eye. Remove stray hairs beyond that spot, and from below your natural arch.

The shape and grooming of your eyebrows will make your eyes look bigger and open up your face more naturally then wearing a lot of makeup. Be careful, as heavy brows will overpower your face. Shape your eyebrows by tweezing the hairs from underneath, not from above.

• TIP: Tweeze after a shower and it will be less painful. Most people have a good natural shape; it just needs to be defined better.
• TIP: Take the color that is the closest to your eyebrow color and fill in the gaps to make a nicely groomed brow. If in doubt, always go a little lighter then your brow.

EYESHADOW

Rule # 1 about eye shadow; when you look at a women's face, you see her eyes not her eye shadow. The general rule is that light shades, bring out your eyes, darker shades give them dimension. If you have small eyes and want to give the impression of larger eyes, you want to stay with lighter shades. If you have large eyes or protruding eyes, you would want to use darker shades. To prevent shadow from creasing, put foundation on your lids first, and then powder. This gives you a clean canvas for your colorations

The first step of applying eye shadow is to apply a light color over your entire eyelid from lash line to brow. Use a large flat eye shadow brush. Always use good quality brushes.

The second step is to apply a medium shadow color on your lower lid from lash line to the crease of your eye. Use a fluff brush.

The third step is to use your darkest color as a liner and apply along your lash line. To insure shadow will not flake, dampen your eyeliner brush before applying shadow. This will make it last longer.

Once your foundation is on, gradually apply lighter shades first, slowly working up to your final color. An important fact to remember is, use colors that blend together naturally. It's not where you place the colors: it's that they work together and blend together invisibly.

• TIP: You do not want this to look like three separate colors.

 

GENERAL TIPS

1.     Be careful with shimmery products, especially on your eyes; they tend to collect in creases.

2.     If you have large and open eyes, don’t use loud or bright colors that will over emphasize the fullness. You want them to be soft and keep a person’s attention.

3.     On deep-set eyes, you should use shadow colors that are on the light side of the color spectrum.

4.     For a light or sheer look, dampen sponge before applying foundation.

5.     Don’t test foundation or concealer color on your hand. Match it to the skin on your face and neck.

6.     Make sure you shake your foundation vigorously before applying.

7.     If you have sallow skin, pick a foundation that disappears on your face. To counteract your skin tone choose a pink or rosy blush.

8.     If your mascara thickens when it reaches the end of the tube, place tube in warm water. That will help make the mascara thinner.

9.     Don’t pump your mascara wand into the mascara container. This pushes air in the container and makes the mascara dry out faster. Gently insert the wand, turn two or three times, then remove and apply to lashes

10. Always use less mascara on your lower lashes.

11. For clumpy eyelashes, use a lash comb to remove clumps.

12. If you have problems under the eye such as dark circles, bags, uneven skin tones, wrinkled skin, etc…. these problems will become more obvious if you apply mascara to the bottom lashes.

13. Even if you do not use foundation or concealer a powder will give the skin a matte finished appearance.

14. Powder makes things stay in place whether it is cream based products that move around or foundations, pencils or concealers.

15. Makeup lasts longer with powder application

16. Powder stops shine. Don’t over powder; it is healthy to have some sheen.

17. Before applying powder make sure there are no lines or creases. Once you powder, it will stay put.

18. If your face is very moist, blot first gently with a tissue, otherwise the powder will clump.

19. Put a light layer of powder under the eyes before applying eye shadow. If color falls when applying color, it can be gently whisked away after you have finished your application.

20. Too much color? Dust on a layer of loose powder or pressed powder to take off the edge.

21. Don’t worry about matching your lip color to your blush; just keep it in the same color family.

22. The thinner your lips, the more neutral your lip color should be.

23. Mixing colors is the best way to vary your lipstick shades.

24. Avoid true red shades if your face is blotchy, irritated or ruddy. Your lips will draw attention to your skin.

25. A great way to organize your lipsticks or use up the end of your lipstick is to dig out or cut off a chunk of lip color and place it in a lipstick palette case.

26. Pale shades of lipstick make lips look fuller.

27. To enhance a pout, dab a silver lip-gloss onto the center of your lower lip.

28. If lip liner is too dark tone it down with a small amount of foundation then reapply lip liner.

29. Vitamin E oil gives your lips a topcoat plus seals in color. This also creates instant shine and helps to protect sensitive areas.

30. To prevent lipstick from getting on your teeth, put your finger in your mouth and close your lips-when you withdraw your finger it will remove excess color.

31. When tweezing your eyebrows first apply Ambesol to numb the area.

32. Invest in a good tweezers, we recommend Tweezerman.

33. If you are thinking of lightening your brows, try a colored mascara first to see what they would look like.

34. If you want your eyebrows to stay in place, put clear mascara on them or a little hairspray on an eyebrow groomer and brush to desired shape.

35. Concealer doesn’t have to be worn with any makeup or powder. Sometimes all you need is a little concealer and something on your lips. Make sure your concealer is one or two shades lighter then your skin. Women insist on using the lightest concealer. Concealer should be applied as sparingly as possible. You don’t want it to be cakey or thick.

Makeup Removers

 

Q: Even though I wash my face thoroughly every night, it never seems like I can get all that makeup off. Do I need a new cleanser or will something else help?

A: Even the best face cleansers can sometimes leave a little something behind - like mascara smudges, eyeliner smears, and traces of those longwearing foundations that endlessly cling to your skin. For the cleanest clean, consider adding an all-purpose makeup remover to your nightly routine. My favorite removers, listed below, are gentle, fast, and non-irritating even for the most sensitive skin and eyes.

For eyes, Beauty Without Cruelty Extra Gentle Eye Makeup Remover is my number one choice. Soothing calendula and chamomile extracts combined with extra gentle cleansers remove every trace of eye makeup with no stinging, burning, or oiliness. BWC products are also 100% vegan, which means absolutely no animal testing or animal-based ingredients.

Do you ever wish you could remove all your makeup in one sweep with no water and no hassle? Lancome Eau de Bienfait and BeneFit Clean Sweep are perfect all purpose choices. Simply saturate a cotton pad and let the cleaning begin! Both brands are non-oily, gentle to eyes, and effective on everything from water-resistant mascara to caked-on concealer.

For all those transfer-resistant and longwearing makeup formulas we all seem to be wearing these days, Estee Lauder has introduced Eye and Lip Makeup Remover for Long Wear Formulas ($14.50 for 3.4 ounces). I've been less than thrilled with some other brands' removers, like Clinique Take The Day Off (painful stinging) and Avon Perfect Wear Makeup Remover (really oily), so I hoped EL's would be different. Turns out it's a great makeup remover that doesn't sting or burn, and it's not overly oily.

 

Makeup Brushes

 

Q: I have a whole collection of makeup brushes, and I'm not sure how or when to clean them. What is the best way to care for makeup brushes?

A: Caring for your makeup brush investment is much easier than most people realize. I typically wash all my brushes every two weeks. All you need is a good, slightly moisturizing shampoo, and a towel.

Start by wetting the brush bristles thoroughly, then apply a small dab of shampoo (I use Aveda Shampure) directly to the bristles, and work it in for a few seconds like you would shampoo your hair. I like to swish it around with a little water in my palm to work off any stubborn eye shadow or concealer. When the shampoo and water are free of debris, rinse the bristles thoroughly under lukewarm running water, very gently squeeze the excess water out, reshape the bristles to their normal shape, and lay the brush on the towel in a flat position. The brush must be dried flat for two reasons:

1.      If the brush is upright, any excess water will run down into the brush and break down the glue that is holding the bristles in place

2.      The bristles will bend and flop over into a completely different shape, making normal makeup application very difficult

I usually clean my brushes at night so they are completely dry and ready to go in the morning. Be careful not to over wash your brushes, as this can make the bristles brittle and scratchy. If you find you are using multiple colors that require the brush to be clean, consider buying more than one of the brushes you use most often.

 

Shelf life Of Opened Products:

 

Q: I've got a lot of old, already opened makeup sitting around in my bathroom. How do I know what's safe to keep and use, and what I should throw away?

A: We go to so much trouble to keep our skin clean and healthy, the last thing you want is to contaminate it with old, possible unsafe cosmetics. Here's a handy guide to the shelf life of already opened products:

·         Cleanser: 1 year

·         Foundation: 1 year

·         Lipstick: 1 to 2 years

·         Mascara: 3 to 4 months, especially if you wear contact lenses

·         Powder: 2 years

·         Eye shadow: 2 years

When in doubt, check the odor and consistency of a product you think might be too old to use. Knowing how long your products will keep for not only protects your skin, but it's a great way to monitor your buying habits; if you keep buying creams that end up going bad because you don't use them, you'll know to only buy what you will actually use.

Concealer advice for women over 40

 

This week we've got a great article on concealer advice for women over 40 from our Panelist Brita:

"When it comes to under eye concealers, it really doesn't matter what you use - no brand is perfect. Here are my tips to making the most of the concealer you choose:

*First, try to repair any damage in the eye area with a glycolic cream. Keep this area well moisturized.

*You're never going to cover the area totally. A Fifty percent improvement is realistic, concealer is half the story. You also have to play up your lashes and brows so this area is less prominent. *Whatever concealer you use, less is better than more. Also, how and where you apply it is very important. Dot it on with a brush, cotton swab, or sponge applicator, then blend very gently with a sponge.

*I like a two-step process to cover the discoloration with a mauve correcting concealer, and then blend a flesh tone over it. I also like to warm up the color on my hand, and then apply it with a brush.

*Don't put concealer on the entire under eye area - it will crease. Concentrate on the area next to the nose, above and below the eye. *If under eye bags are really prominent, gently ice this area before applying makeup.

While I've found that most brands are relatively the same, here are a few that I've had particular success with: Trish McEvoy is good for a high end brand; Revlon for a low end. The Body shop wand concealer is good for touch-ups. The mauve undercoat I 

use is a Joe Blasco stage product. I've found it makes all the difference.

The basic difference in brands is in tones - most of the cheaper ones are too pink - and thickness. However, if you warm them up before using them, the consistency is pretty much the same."

 

Q: I can never figure out what colors of eye shadow look best on me. Is there some trick to it?

A: Simple eye makeup can really bring out your eyes, and you don't need six different shadows to do it. For everyday, I like to use one lid color, one highlight color, and one liner color (shadow or pencil depending on your preference) at the most. If you pick neutral shades like browns, grays, and plums, you can actually create several different looks from just three colors.

To choose an eye shadow lid color that will really bring out your eyes, think back to the color wheel you learned about in elementary school. Choosing complementary colors (those opposite each other on the color wheel) gives you the most contrast and makes each color stand out. What does this mean for eye shadow?

·         If you have brown eyes, shades of blue, blue gray, and plum will make your eyes stand out

·         If you have green eyes, choose shades of pink, salmon, mauve, and brownish-pink to make the green look greener.

·         If you have blue eyes, shades of brown, camel, and taupe will make the blue appear even bluer.

For highlight and liner, stick with neutral colors like beige or soft yellow for highlight and deep brown, navy, or charcoal for liner. Now you're ready to apply!

Lid Color
Since the lid color is going to be the focal point of your eye makeup, the part that makes your eyes stand out the most, I like to use a good eye shadow brush and a good quality shadow that is soft, blends easily, and won't crease. Applying eye shadow isn't tricky - you just need to remember a few simple tips.

1.      Always tap the excess shadow off the brush before you apply it to your lid, otherwise all the extra will fall into your eye or smear on your cheek.

2.      Work slowly and deliberately. Plan where you want to the shadow to go, and don't be afraid to take your time to get it right (especially with liner).

3.      Blend the edges of the color using a clean brush so there are no obvious lines between where color starts and ends.

Using the eye shadow color you've chosen for your lid, swipe your brush across the color a few times, tap off the excess, then apply the shadow across your lid in small strokes. Don't get too close to the crease or to your brow bone, since that's where the highlighter goes.

Highlight
Highlighting is the easiest step in eye makeup. Using a small eye shadow brush, pick up a bit of your light color with the brush, tap off any excess, and apply to the area just under your eyebrows. You should be able to cover it in one sweep. Now, clean off the brush on a piece of tissue or a towel, and use the cleaned brush to blend the highlighter color down into the edge of the lid color so there's no obvious line. I really use a highlight color more as a blending and softening color rather than adding more color to your eyes.

Liner
Personally, I like using a dark shadow and a flat, square liner brush much better than pencils. Pencils can drag, smear, cake, and leave little blobs on your eyelid that inevitably falls into your eye. Using a dark eye shadow like a deep brown, black, navy, or charcoal and a liner brush with fairly stiff bristles (I like Trish McEvoy #11 and Stila #13), you can get the same defining effect as a pencil without a heavy pencil line. If you are just starting out with shadow as liner, you could even use the tip of a pointed sponge applicator instead of a brush; the control isn't as good, but it'll do in a pinch!

Start by pointing the brush/applicator straight down into the shadow, and then tap the edge of the brush/applicator tip onto the shadow several times. Tap off any extra, and then use the edge of the brush/applicator with the color on it to draw a thin line as close to the base of your lashes as possible. Make sure to start at the inside corner of your eye and work all the way out to the outer corner. You can work in short strokes if it's easier, rather than trying to draw one long line. I also like to line only the top lid, but you can do the lower the very same way if you like. Experiment to see which "look" suits the shape of your eyes.

Eyeliner queries and questioning eyes:

Eyeliner, whether liquid or dry, should be applied at the base of the lash line on the upper eye. The lower eye is the same application technique at the lower lash line. I would not recommend using liquid liner on the bottom lash line, it tends to look harsh and is hard to apply perfectly on your own without making a mess! Dry liners are better on the bottom lashes since they are easier to blend. You can create the width of the eyeliner to your own preference. You can blend with an applicator sponge or blending brush to make a hard line subtler, if needed.  Ms. Questioning eyes, being a blonde myself; eyeliner colors that would suit your skin tone would be a light to dark brown, taupe or a light heather color. I like to avoid black eyeliner because it makes us blondes appear like we have eyeliner on!

How do I use liquid or cake eyeliners?

Answer: Most liquid eyeliners come with a brush or an applicator with a tip similar to that of a felt tip pen. Make sure you rest your arm on a steady object such as a desk or dresser. It may be easier to also place the palm of your hand on your face to help keep your hand steady. Begin by using the very tip of the brush for a thinner line near the inner corner of your eye. The thicker the line you desire, then use the wider part of the brush. Use a Q- tip dipped in eye makeup remover to "erase" any mistakes. Cake eyeliners are applied the same way except you have to use water to wet the eyeliner and get the consistency you want. Remember not to use saliva as this can cause eye infections.

Makeup Brushes from the Art Supply Store

report by Elaine of the Cosmetic Connection Product Panel

Everyone's heard, at one time or another, that it's cheaper to buy make-up brushes at an artist supply store. But have you ever tried it? It's instant overload - rack after rack of brushes of every discernible shape and size. You see a nice shaped sable brush and pick it up. Aside from the handle being 18 inches long, the price is enough to cause cardiac arrest - $60 for something that might run half that at the local MAC counter. So where's the bargain?

 

Its there all right; if you know what to look for. Here are some general tips to help you find the best deals.

Synthetic brushes are always cheaper by as much as 90 percent at the artist supply store. These are the brushes you can use to apply concealer, lipstick and eyeliner. Want something that duplicates the Bobbi Brown eyeliner and lip brushes? Look for a brush with an oval shape. If the bristles are too long, you can trim them with a manicure scissors. Want to knock off that Trish McEvoy No. 11 eyeliner brush? Find something straight across with a narrow row of bristles. Expect to pay no more than $3 for any of these.

Slanted or angle brushes are always cheaper by at least 50 percent or more. These are the brushes you'll use for defining the eye crease and applying powdered eyeliner and brow make-up. The fabled MAC No. 22 goes for something like $24. In an art supply store, you should be able to find one in the same red sable or kolinsky for about $10.

If you favor sable lip brushes - both straight across and shaped - you're likely to find them for no more than $8. Ditto for eyeliner brushes.

Not quite as cheap but still reasonable are straight across or "wash" brushes in camel, sable and pony that you can use for blending.

Another bargain is the white goat hair brushes with bamboo handles from the orient. A great boudoir powder brush for under $10.

What's not on this list? Blush brushes and chiseled sable eye shadow brushes. For some reason, you fare better purchasing these at the make-up counter.

But what if the aesthetics of these brushes don't grab you? Say you're a neat freak and you like all of your brushes to match. Well, there are things you can do to make your motley assortment of brushes more appealing:

• Handles that are too long can be broken or sawed down to size. After you're done, smooth the bottom with sandpaper and cover the exposed wood with black permanent marker to match the rest of the handle.
• If you don't like the color of the brush handle, you can remove the color with make-up remover for a natural wood look or cover the entire thing black with permanent marker. Why go to all this trouble? Because it's great to have spares of lip and concealer brushes or duplicates for your purse. And with the money you save, you can buy more make-up!

Q: Department store cosmetics are so expensive, and sometimes I just don't see the results they promise. Are there any products from the drugstore that really work and won't drain my wallet?

A: Let me just start by saying that for the most part, cosmetic companies often make pretty lofty claims about what their products can do. So many of them promise the sun, moon and stars, but those results often are just not possible (like "re-training" the skin to act differently, making pores physically smaller, and magically erasing wrinkles, just to name a few). We all want to look our best, so we get sucked in and start to believe that a miracle cream or potion might really exist - it doesn't :(

Having said that, there are plenty of good quality skin care and makeup choices at the drugstore that are just as effective (just ignore the hype) as department store brands for a lot less money. Here are a few of my favorites:

Makeup
Foundation can be a little tricky if there are no testers to try the colors on your skin, but there are still some great products to be found at the drugstore. If there are no testers, try to shop somewhere that will let you exchange your purchase for another color if necessary. You can also bring a favorite foundation you currently use from another brand to the drugstore and compare colors. I've done this several times and find it can really help narrow the choices down. Of all the drugstore foundations available, I've found Maybelline True Illusion and Great Wear liquids, Almay Amazing Lasting and new Skin Stays Clean liquids, Revlon New Complexion One Step cream-to-powder makeup, and Jane True to You liquid all have nice texture, good wearability, a nice range of colors, and work well for a variety of skin types.

Mascara is one of my favorite products to get at the drugstore. It's so reasonably priced, I can afford to replace it every three months (good for preventing eye problems caused by bacteria) and not feel like I'm throwing my money away.

When most women think drugstore mascara, they think Maybelline Great Lash; it has been touted for years as a favorite in the business, named countless times as magazine beauty editors' favorite, but I honestly have no idea why. I find it to be thick, gloppy, overly wet, and it smears like nobody's business. This is one of those "like it or hate it" products, so I can understand if you strongly agree or disagree with me. Here are a few drugstore mascaras that I recommend: Maybelline Lash by Lash and Volum' Express, L'Oreal Voluminous and Le Grand Curl (compares to Lancome Extencils), Max Factor 2000 Calorie, Lord & Berry Dramateyes, and Jane Flashes.

Lipstick is another easy winner at the drugstore - the prices are so much lower than dept. store brands that you can afford to try new colors and textures. Of the brands I've tried, Nat Robbins Stay Put, Maybelline Great Wear, Wet 'n Wild Mega Colors, Coty 24 Hour Creme, and Revlon Velvet Touch are among my favorites. Changing your lipstick is one of the easiest ways to update your makeup, and these drugstore finds make it affordable, too.

Skin Care
With the prices of fancy treatment creams at the department store counters skyrocketing; it's no wonder we want to find something comparable at the drugstore. Many of the products are even practically identical to department store brands; for instance, Lancôme and L'Oreal are owned by the same company and have many similar skin care products. If you have a Lancôme favorite but hate spending so much money, L'Oreal just might have a similar product for less.

Of all the drugstore products I've tried, here are a few of my favorites that I think perform as well or better than those at the expensive cosmetic counters:

• Biore: I particularly like the non-foaming cleanser, the self-heating mask, the daily scrub, and, yes, even the pore strips.
• Pond's: The new makeup remover towellettes are a great find, as is their Cleansing Lotion & Moisturizer In One.
• Neutrogena: Their Extra Gentle Facial Cleanser, Fresh Foaming Cleanser, Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Cream (compares to Estee Lauder Diminish Retinol Treatment), and Norwegian Formula Hand Cream are among my favorites of this brand.
• Oil of Olay: You can't go wrong with the original beauty fluid, and I also love the sensitive skin cream.
• Alpha Hydrox: Don't be fooled by dept. store AHA creams that claim to work better just because they cost more. Alpha Hydrox has a range of strengths to suit everybody to effectively make a difference in the texture and clarity of your skin.

Remember a basic cosmetic rule - you don't always get what you pay for! With a little comparison-shopping, you'll find some great, inexpensive products at the drugstore that work just as well or better than high priced department store lines.

 

Lipstick compact: something new and fun from MAC

For something new and fun from MAC right now, I highly recommend their lipstick compact to those of you in Nordstrom territory (the compact was created for the Nordstrom Anniversary Sale going on now). For $24 you get a handy refillable palette compact filled with some of MAC's best sellers, like taupe, fetish, gel, pivot, twig, rizzo, and clear vitamin E stick. I love the enclosed lip brush, which is of the same quality as all of MAC's brushes, only smaller (not some cheezy throw-away). This compact is great for purse, travel, and mixing your own shades on the go.

FYI - If you are a makeup maven like me but don't have access to MAC where you live, you can still satisfy your craving by ordering products through MAC's mail order line (1-800-387-6707).

Q: What is the best make-up to wear with red lipstick? It's all the rage right now and it looks sensational when done right. What do you recommend?

A: My favorite look to go with red lips is great looking skin, subtle and sheer eye color, and soft blush. Start with Concealer and/or foundation in the areas you need it for a flawless finish on your skin. Depending on your coloring, choose a soft neutral eye shadow for all over the lid, like something brown based or cream. Skip liner, or do a simple thin line very close to the base of your lashes in dark brown or charcoal, then a coat or two of mascara just to help define your eyes. Since the focus is on your lips, use a liner that matches your lipstick, and apply your lipstick with a lip brush for the best coverage and control. For blush, I like to use something subtle that's close to the shade I naturally blush. That's all there is to it!

 

Deciphering Cosmetic Labels

The ingredient labels on cosmetics these days might as well be in Greek. What is all that stuff?

With the huge growth in not only the number of cosmetic lines we have to choose from these days, but also the sheer number of products each of them has, it's no wonder that our skin is becoming more sensitive and more confused than ever before. Making sense out of what's in your cosmetics and skin care will not only make you feel more empowered about what you're putting on your skin, but it will help you learn what ingredients to look for, and which ones to avoid.

The Lowdown on Ingredients

Here's a handy guide to some of the basic ingredients you'll find in cleansers, toners, moisturizers, and masks. Remember when reading a cosmetic ingredient label that the ingredients are listed from most to least, just like a packaged food label.

• Sodium lauryl (or laureth) sulfate - detergent cleanser that is effective but can be drying and irritating to your skin. The "laureth" version is gentler but can still dry the skin. Other similar cleansing agents are:
• TEA-lauryl sulfate
• Cocamide DEA
• Ammonium lauryl (or laureth) sulfate
• Magnesium laureth sulfate
• Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfate
• Triethanolamine
• Polyethylene glycol (PEG) - gives an emollient feel, or "slip", to a product like a cleanser or lotion. Similar slip agents include:
• Polysorbates
• Propylene glycol
• Polypropylene glycol
• Butylene glycol
• Hexylene glycol
• Isopropyl myristate (may clog pores in some people)
• Methylparaben - a common preservative found in most cosmetics to guard against bacteria, fungus, yeast, and mold. Some people with especially sensitive skin may have reaction to these preservatives. Other parabens include:
• Propylparaben
• Butylparaben
• Ethylparaben

Other preservatives that can be irritating to the skin are Imidazolidinyl urea, Quaternium-15, and 2-bromo-2-nitropane-1,3-diol

Glycerin - an extremely common ingredient that attracts and binds water to the skin. Check your labels for these other water-binders:

• Propylene glycol
• Polypropylene glycol
• Butylene glycol
• Hexylene glycol
• Caprylic/capric/lauric triglycerides
• Cyclomethicone/Dimethicone
• Fatty acids like Stearic acid and Linoleic acid
• Hyaluronic acid (a protein)
• Sodium PCA (found in all living cells, helps to maintain water balance)
• Collagen (a protein that makes up the support structure of your skin)
• Ceramide
• Elastin (a protein that helps skin stay elastic)
• Lecithin (found naturally in eggs, milk, sunflower seeds, soybeans, and some vegetables)
• Kaolin- a white Chinese clay that helps to absorb oil on the surface of the skin. It is common in clay-based facial masks and cleansers, but be aware that it may over-dry your skin if it high on the product's ingredient list. Another common clay which comes from volcanic ash, and might also be in clay-based masks or cleansers, is Bentonite.
• Squalane - a nutrient-rich oil present in human sebum that is also a natural anti-bacterial and healer. It spreads evenly and can penetrate deeper and more readily than most other oils. Other moisturizing ingredients include:
• Isopropyl palmitate
• Glyceryl stearate
• PEG-100 stearate
• Petrolatum
• Plant oils like avocado, apricot, peach kernel, and sweet almond

Thanks to the Educated Beauty Cosmetic Dictionary, "What's in your Cosmetics?" by Aubrey Hampton (Odonian Press, 1995), and product labels from Kiehl's, Garden Botanika, Lancome, BeneFit, and Alpha Hydrox for the research information.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Tools you'll need:

• Slanted-tip tweezers
• Eyebrow brush
• Astringent to soften skin and anesthetize the area.
• Well-lit mirror. Don't use a magnifying mirror — it will distort the area and make you more likely to overpluck
• Small scissors to trim excess hair
• Brow powder, a brow pencil and tinted brow gel

Optional:

• Brow stencil kit like Senna's Form-A-Brow, or see our Brow Stencil page.

The Brow Bible
Six Steps to Perfect Brows

In this article... The Brow Bible Six Steps to Perfect Brows Most Common Mistakes Waxing vs. Tweezing

1. Brush brows upward. Carefully trim any excess hair above the top of your natural arch. Be careful not to take off too much at the ends or you'll have brow "bald" spots.

2. Look closely at the shape. Your brow should begin at your tear duct, peak at the outer edge of your iris and end at the outer corner of your eye. "Many women make the mistake of taking off too much at the outer corners," says Weston. "This slants the brows upward and makes the person look perpetually angry."

3. Prep your skin: Soak a cotton ball in astringent and wipe the brow area.

4. Hold a pencil in line with the outer side of your iris and note where the peak of your arch naturally occurs. From the arch to the outer corner of the eye, your brow should fall in a straight or slightly curved line, depending on the look you're trying to achieve.

5. Hold the tweezers at a 45-degree angle and pluck the stray hairs below the brow line. "Pull in the direction of the hair growth, or you may end up breaking the hair mid-shaft," says Engle. Follow your natural brow shape — not the trends. "It's very difficult to let your brows grow back into their natural shape after you've plucked them to death trying to achieve a particular look," she says.

6. Fill in sparse areas with a freshly sharpened brow pencil; use light, quick strokes to draw in hair. Brow powder will give thin brows overall definition, and is great for a more natural look. Using the brow brush, sweep powder up and outward over brows. If you're a brow novice, a tinted brow gel is a foolproof way to keep brows in place. Lightly coat brows using upward and outward strokes. Wipe off any excess and allow it to set.

• Plucking too much all over
  "Over-plucking is a common problem, and one that unfortunately takes time to correct," says Weston. Let the hair grow in for a month or so before you pick up the tweezers. In the meantime, fill in any bare spots with powder that matches or is one shade darker than your brows. The powder's coverage is lighter than a pencil, but it will keep brows from looking too harsh.
• Thin ends
  To fix this problem, you need to balance out each side of the brow. Fill in brows starting at the middle of the arch and work your way toward the end.
• Too short
  "Brows that end at the arch can make your eyes look smaller," Engle says. Starting at the arch, draw in the remainder of the brow just along the brow bone. Be sure to use pencil the same color as your brows, or it will look unnatural.
• Unshapely
  "Badly shaped brows often happen when you make a mistake and keep plucking to correct it," Weston explains. Place a brow stencil over your brow and line up the edges. Brush powder onto brows and remove the stencil. Carefully tweeze away any hair outside the new shape.
• Waiting too long to tweeze
  When eyebrows become bushy and unruly, it's tempting to just tweeze away with reckless abandon. Instead, trim first, then brush them back into place. You should start to see their natural shape. Carefully pluck the stray hairs underneath the arch and anything else outside the natural brow line.

Waxing vs. Tweezing
While both methods can produce beautifully shaped brows, waxing is best left to the professionals. "One wrong drop of wax and you can take off half of an eyebrow," warns Weston. "And it may not grow back properly." Waxing is also not advised for women who have sensitive skin, sunburn or use Retin-A and other prescription creams.

That being said, if you've never touched your brows, it may be worth your while to invest in a visit to the salon for a consultation and preliminary waxing. Once the aesthetician has shaped your brows, you will be able to maintain them at home.

Well-groomed brows are the basis of any great face. Find out what to do with the other hair on your head in Fall Hair Trends. Match your sleek look with great style from First Call for Fall.

Recommendations:

From Beyond Beauty Jane Pratt

Skin: Foaming cleanser-Aubrey-health food stores

            Also  Clarins @$15.

Skin Care (naturals=best)-Aveda and /or Ling (Soho) /Clinique=bad

Exfoliation-Apricot scrub or oatmeal=best. Buff Puff=bad (too rough)

            Scrub once/week, no more    

Use natural clay masks once/week=pull out toxins, oil and impurities (Natural kaolin=best). Queen Helene (“The Cocktail Facial-$4.)

Drinks lots of water, fruits and vegetables (esp. greens) Avoid sugar and fried foods. Alcohol, smoking and soda are bad too.

Stress=meditation, yoga and relaxation/breathing exercises

Foundation: MAC Face and Body

Concealer: MAC (solids)

Powders: Revlon smooth textures (more milling)

Brows: Max Factor Brow Tamer

            Concealer to lighten and shadow for glimmer-y effect=modern, cool

Shadow: apply with natural brush for best blending MAC/Drug Emporium

White shimmer-y, warm lighter green, and gold’s-MAC

Liner: dark gray, brown, black, dark blue and dark green. Dark matte eye shadow applied with sponge-tip applicator. MAC, Chanel, Lancôme. Liner pens; for darker look apply with small thin flat brushes. Not too much on lower-looks heavy and dated. Inside lower lid is hip-blend with sponge-tip applicator into lower lash line.

Throw out before 12 months.

Curl lashes, wash curler every two weeks

Mascara-Brown is more modern, curved brushes are best. Waterproof is harder to get off-use only if needed. Maybelline two coats to upper lashes, extra to outer=cat-eye effect.

Blush: keep it simple and don’t over do it, wear a little. Balances face between lips and face. Bronze, copper or pinky.  Chanel Tempting beige=best color ever! MAC shades for both shadow and blush. Use natural-hair brush or cotton puff-not synthetic cotton balls or pads, only cotton. Apply to apples of cheeks and then outwards, also temples and forehead for color and balance. Cream blush is easy to apply with sponge. Blend

Lips: need color and moisture. Find one or two and stay with those. Never match to outfit. Stay away from super matte/dark browns.  Try light formulas-sheers, frost and shimmers; pearl shades-bronze, soft lavender, rose and cherry for a softer effect. Kiehl’s Golden Berry. Go darker or brighter than natural color. Darker=burgundy, wine, rose-brown; brighter-cherry or red, well blended. Let natural lip color show through. Use lip liner to build up thinner lips, blend inward. MAC (Spice & Nutmeg), Chanel (Nude), Max Factor (Nude).