Make Up

Want to know more with a better understanding of the sometimes confusing world of health, beauty and cosmetics with ever more information and details on the latest in both fashion trends and make-up?

These pages explore that and are for the beginner or everyday user of make-up and also explains some rather advanced techniques as well. There are pages showing how to buy and apply make up, remove it and put together a nicer style, a better you!

Check back as these pages will be updated and evolve giving more information and details on the latest trends in both fashion and make-up!

I have been approached by many with how I apply make up, so come join with me and if you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask!

Skin type is normal but with an increasingly drier T-zone. Crow's feet, smile lines, creases in forehead, lines around the lips, bags under the eyes and sun damage (age spots) are much more evident. The skin no longer rebounds as quickly as it used to, therefore extreme weight gains or losses begin to show up on your face.

Wear adequate sunscreen (SPF 15 or higher). Use gentle facial cleansers, lightweight eye crèmes and moisturizers. Use of alpha hydroxy acid products and a retinol product will speed up skin's cell turnover and deliver a fresher, healthier glow to your skin.

Your skin is much drier than in years past. Flare ups of adult acne may be common. Wrinkles and sagging become more dramatic. Cell turnover decreases by almost half.

Wear adequate sunscreen (SPF 15 or higher). Use gentle facial cleansers (possibly those that are cream-based). You may want to try using heavier moisturizers, but stay with light weight eye crèmes to prevent eye cream overkill. Alpha hydroxy acid products and a retinol product will speed up skin cell turnover and deliver a fresher, healthier glow to your skin.

Technique:

Make-Up Presentation by Jenelle Rose

Part one is based upon female techniques, Part two below, provides information specific to the TG-male to female community.

Part One: FEMALE MAKEUP OR MAKEOVER

Practice your application and blend well; the goal is not to have obvious edges of color. Remember, lighter colors bring things forward and highlight, dark colors recede and add depth and shading.

Eyeliner
Position the brush, pencil, or applicator as close to the lash line along the eyelid as possible. Then draw a line from the inner to outer corner using one fluid stroke, following the curvature of the eyelid. As a general rule, do not extend the line past the outer corner of the eye or hug the tear duct area of the eye. At first, keep the line as thin as possible, and if a thicker line is desired, repeat the process either across the entire lash line or simply on the outer third of the lid along the lashes.

Generally, the line along the lower lashes should be thinner and a less-intense color than the upper liner. Make sure that the two lines meet at the back corner of the eye. As a general rule, the larger the eyelid area, the thicker and softer the eyeliner should be. The smaller the eyelid area, the thinner and more intense the liner should be.
For health reasons, avoid lining the rim of the eye.

Eyeliner smudging is pretty much inevitable. The eyes are naturally moist, and moisture along with laughing, blinking, sneezing and rubbing our eyes (all very human activities) ruins makeup! Avoid using too much moisturizer around the eye; it will travel and convert liner into mush -- not a bad look in a sultry rock-star way, but probably not the look you're going for. Try an eye gel in lieu of eye cream. Look for one that absorbs quickly and be sure to give it a couple of minutes before applying makeup.

Using a Q-tip, trace a line of neutral-colored matte powder or eye shadow around the circumference of the eye as a base on which you'll place the eyeliner.

Eyebrows
Color should match your brows, not your hair color or use what color you think would already exist but for some age factor or another reason. Apply a powder brow color or shadow for best results with a stiff wedge brush with short swift strokes in the direction the hair naturally grows. Do not over exaggerate the shape of the brow by arching or going for “trendy looks”.

Mascara
Use of a lash curler is recommended. It makes you look more awake, adds glamour and makes your lashes look much longer. It is best to use a good brand such as the Tweeserman and only use them it on clean lashes, before you apply mascara. Squeeze gently with even pressure for about 10-12 seconds about two to three times at different points to even results and not get a crimped look. Apply mascara to the upper lashes using long, sweeping strokes, holding your upper lip up with the other hand’s index finger. Be sure to begin as close to the lash root as possible and brush up and out. A metal mascara comb works best between coats to remove clumping and give definition. To add Power and thickness, dip a clean Q-into some powder and onto the lashes and then reapply mascara.

Without returning wand to tube, apply mascara to the lower lashes by holding the wand perpendicular to the eye and parallel to the lashes (using the tip of the wand).

Lipstick and Lip Liner
A Lip brush or pencil is optional. Use a lip pencil to draw an edge when applying lipstick, and a lip brush to control your application. A standard tube of lipstick makes too wide a mark for some lips and too narrow a mark for others. If your lips are small, it is best to use a lip brush; if your lips are large, the only reason to use a lip brush is to improve your accuracy, especially with deeper shades such as red.

Line the actual shape of your mouth. Do not use corrective techniques that make the mouth look larger or longer, especially for daytime makeup--it almost always looks like a mistake.

1. Use soft, pliable brushes. Avoid hard or stiff brushes. Today’s colors are almost to delicate for stiff brushes anymore.

2. Use brushes that are the correct size for the area you are working on. Avoid brushes too large or too small.

3. Remember to knock the excess powder off the brush before you apply the color to your face.

4. Brush on the color gently with short even strokes; avoid wiping or rubbing the brush across the face.

One of the easiest ways to get a healthy look is with blush -- unfortunately, it is often misused. Here is the correct and easy way to apply blush: First, start with a good quality blush brush. You can accentuate your face and cheeks naturally. Smile and you will see the fleshy part that stands out the most; this is the apple of your checks. This is your starting point for applying your blush. Apply a light layer of blush to the apples of your cheeks and blend up and back toward your hairline.

The eyebrows are the most important feature in defining the face. The trick to applying a natural eyebrow shape is using a hard stiff, short brush, and working with colorations instead of pencils. Pencils can be used, but it takes practice and patience to get a natural look.

The first step is tweezing. Start by thinning the eyebrow, and then slowly begin to define the arch. The arch should reach the highest point above the middle of your iris. Thin from that point out. The brows are the frames of your eyes. Don't be afraid to tweeze your eyebrows - BUT NEVER SHAVE YOUR EYEBROWS. Spend your money on a good tweezers.

The general rule of determining the shape of your eyebrow is to hold a pencil vertically alongside your face to the point where the pencil meets your eyebrow. That is the natural starting point. Tweeze the stray hairs between the two starting points. The end point is found by angling the pencil past the outer corner of your eye. Remove stray hairs beyond that spot, and from below your natural arch.

The shape and grooming of your eyebrows will make your eyes look bigger and open up your face more naturally then wearing a lot of makeup. Be careful, as heavy brows will overpower your face. Shape your eyebrows by tweezing the hairs from underneath, not from above.

EYESHADOW

Rule # 1 about eye shadow; when you look at a women's face, you see her eyes not her eye shadow. The general rule is that light shades, bring out your eyes, darker shades give them dimension. If you have small eyes and want to give the impression of larger eyes, you want to stay with lighter shades. If you have large eyes or protruding eyes, you would want to use darker shades. To prevent shadow from creasing, put foundation on your lids first, and then powder. This gives you a clean canvas for your colorations

The first step of applying eye shadow is to apply a light color over your entire eyelid from lash line to brow. Use a large flat eye shadow brush. Always use good quality brushes.

The second step is to apply a medium shadow color on your lower lid from lash line to the crease of your eye. Use a fluff brush.

The third step is to use your darkest color as a liner and apply along your lash line. To insure shadow will not flake, dampen your eyeliner brush before applying shadow. This will make it last longer.

Once your foundation is on, gradually apply lighter shades first, slowly working up to your final color. An important fact to remember is, use colors that blend together naturally. It's not where you place the colors: it's that they work together and blend together invisibly.

GENERAL TIPS

1. Be careful with shimmery products, especially on your eyes; they tend to collect in creases.

2. If you have large and open eyes, don’t use loud or bright colors that will over emphasize the fullness. You want them to be soft and keep a person’s attention.

3. On deep-set eyes, you should use shadow colors that are on the light side of the color spectrum.

5. Don’t test foundation or concealer color on your hand. Match it to the skin on your face and neck.

7. If you have sallow skin, pick a foundation that disappears on your face. To counteract your skin tone choose a pink or rosy blush.

8. If your mascara thickens when it reaches the end of the tube, place tube in warm water. That will help make the mascara thinner.

9. Don’t pump your mascara wand into the mascara container. This pushes air in the container and makes the mascara dry out faster. Gently insert the wand, turn two or three times, then remove and apply to lashes

12. If you have problems under the eye such as dark circles, bags, uneven skin tones, wrinkled skin, etc…. these problems will become more obvious if you apply mascara to the bottom lashes.

13. Even if you do not use foundation or concealer a powder will give the skin a matte finished appearance.

14. Powder makes things stay in place whether it is cream based products that move around or foundations, pencils or concealers.

17. Before applying powder make sure there are no lines or creases. Once you powder, it will stay put.

18. If your face is very moist, blot first gently with a tissue, otherwise the powder will clump.

19. Put a light layer of powder under the eyes before applying eye shadow. If color falls when applying color, it can be gently whisked away after you have finished your application.

20. Too much color? Dust on a layer of loose powder or pressed powder to take off the edge.

21. Don’t worry about matching your lip color to your blush; just keep it in the same color family.

24. Avoid true red shades if your face is blotchy, irritated or ruddy. Your lips will draw attention to your skin.

25. A great way to organize your lipsticks or use up the end of your lipstick is to dig out or cut off a chunk of lip color and place it in a lipstick palette case.

27. To enhance a pout, dab a silver lip-gloss onto the center of your lower lip.

28. If lip liner is too dark tone it down with a small amount of foundation then reapply lip liner.

29. Vitamin E oil gives your lips a topcoat plus seals in color. This also creates instant shine and helps to protect sensitive areas.

30. To prevent lipstick from getting on your teeth, put your finger in your mouth and close your lips-when you withdraw your finger it will remove excess color.

33. If you are thinking of lightening your brows, try colored mascara first to see what they would look like.

34. If you want your eyebrows to stay in place, put clear mascara on them or a little hairspray on an eyebrow groomer and brush to desired shape.

35. Concealer doesn’t have to be worn with any makeup or powder. Sometimes all you need is a little concealer and something on your lips. Make sure your concealer is one or two shades lighter then your skin. Women insist on using the lightest concealer. Concealer should be applied as sparingly as possible. You don’t want it to be cakey or thick.

Foundation: Prime the skin with a moisturizer according to your skin's needs.
Use Concealer Brush to apply Foundation Stick one shade lighter than your skin tone and if you need more coverage use Professional Concealer under the eyes and to any uneven areas of the face.

Follow with your skin tone correct shade of Moisturizing Foundation for a sheer, dewy complexion.

Blush: Using your fingers, smile and apply Sand Pink Cream Blush Stick across the apples of the cheeks and back towards the hairline, then blend down to soften the edges (for darker skin tones, use Soft Plum Cream Blush Stick).

Set foundation with a light dusting of Loose Face Powder using the Powder Puff on the forehead, chin and nose, avoiding the cheeks.

Brows: Using the Eye Brow Brush and a shadow the same tone as your hair color, start at the inner corner following the natural shape of your brow to create an arch. Use light, feathering strokes and soften color with Powder Puff if necessary.

Eyes: Begin with a sweep of White Eye Shadow across the entire lid and up to the brow bone using the Eye Shader Brush (for darker skin tones, use Shell Eye Shadow).

Using the Eye Shadow Brush apply Grey Eye Shadow across the lid from the lashes 3/4 of the way up past the crease.

Follow with the Eye Liner Brush (damp), applying a soft line of Slate Eye Shadow close to the lash line (for darker complexions use Charcoal Eye Shadow).

Finish with one coat of Black Thickening Mascara.

Lips: Apply Pink Berry Lip Stain or Pink Lip Color and line with either Nude or Pink Lip Pencil .

Top with a touch of Petal Pink Lip Gloss.

For a richer look, mix Pink and Chocolate Lip Color topped with White Lip Gloss.

Nails: Apply Pink Sheer Nail Wash.

Tip: Customize your lip color by experimenting with various lip pencils.
Using Pink, Nude, Raisin or Chocolate Lip Pencil you can brighten any lip.

Foundation: Prime the skin with Face Lotion or Hydrating Face Cream according to your skin's needs.

Use Concealer Brush to apply Foundation Stick one shade lighter than your skin tone or, if necessary, Professional Concealer under the eyes and to any uneven areas of the face.

Follow with your skin tone correct shade of appropriate foundation to even out the complexion. Set foundation with a light dusting of Loose Face Powder using Powder Puff. Brush off any excess using Powder Brush.

Brows: Using Eye Brow Brush and a shadow that is the same tone as your hair color, start at the inner corner following the natural shape of your brow to create an arch. Use light, feathering strokes and soften color with Powder Puff if necessary.

Eyes: Begin with a sweep of Bone Eye Shadow across the entire lid and up to the brow bone using the Eye Shader Brush (for darker skin tones, use Banana Shadow).

Using Eye Shadow Brush apply Banana Eye Shadow across the lid from the lashes 3/4 of the way up past the crease (for darker complexions, apply Toast Eye Shadow).

Using Contour Brush apply Cedar Eye Shadow above the crease and under the brow bone and blend inward. Use Blender Brush to soften the contour.

Using Contour Brush apply Cedar Eye Shadow above the crease and under the brow bone and blend inward. Use Blender Brush to soften the contour.

Using Eye Definer Brush apply Cedar Eye Shadow above the crease and under the brow bone and blend inward. Use Blender Brush to soften the contour.

Using Eye Definer Brush apply a line or Rich Brown Eye Shadow around the entire eye close to the lash line (for darker complexions use Mahogany Eye Shadow). Make sure to tap brush on the back of the hand for a soft smudgy line.

Finish with one coat of Dark Brown Thickening Mascara.
Option: Apply a touch of Pale Yellow Shimmer Eye Shadow on the lid or brow bone using your index finger.

Blush: Using the Bronzer Brush, smile and apply light Bronzing Powder across the apples of the cheeks and back towards the hairline.
Blend down to soften the edges.

For a pop of color, follow with Apricot Blush applied to the apple of the cheek (for darker skin tones use Medium or Dark Bronzing Powder followed by Apricot Blush).

Lips: Apply Garnet Lip Shimmer lined with Cola Lip Pencil. Honey Lip Gloss can be layered on top to give the lips a fabulous glow.
Option: Use Malt Lip Shimmer lined Chocolate Lip Pencil layered with Honey Lip Gloss.

Nails: Layer Brown Shimmer Nail Wash over Brown Sheer Nail Wash.

Tip: For an evening face line the lips with Red or Chocolate Lip Pencil.

Wide-Set Eyes...are more than one eye-length apart.

Your Goal: Make your eyes look closer together by emphasizing
the inner third of the eye.

Line: Starting at the inner corners, line the eye completely, top and bottom.

Accent: Apply light shade on the outer 2/3 of the lid, lashes to browbone, brushing towards the outer corners.

Define: Sweep your deep color on the inside third of the lid, brushing towards the inner corner of eyes. Shadow from lashes to just below the browbone. Blend edges into the light shade to get a soft gradation of color.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Center a little highlighter just under the brow in the middle of the eye.

Brows & Lashes: Accent color a little heavier at the beginning of brows. Don't extend brow color beyond your natural line. Apply lashcolor evenly on upper and lower lashes, with an extra coat or two on the lashes closest to the inner corner of the eye.

Deep-Set Eyes

Deep-Set Eyes ... are recessed or shadowed by a prominent brow bone. Lids may be hidden and the eyebrows appear close to the eyes.

Your Goal: Make the eyes look more open, less recessed.

Line: Using a fine line, outline upper and lower lids evenly.

Accent: Sweep light color over the entire lid, lashes to brows.

Define: Stroke your deep shade just ABOVE (not in) the eye's natural crease. Blend lightly at the edges to soften. This brings the lid portion 'forward' optically.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Brush a little highlighter in and along the lid crease. Do not blend.

Brows & Lashes: Raise the plane of the brow line by skimming brow color lightly along the tops of brows. Since pale brows make eyes look even more recessed, select brow color a shade or two darker than your natural tone. Mascara top and bottom lashes lavishly.

Prominent Eyes ...are large and may appear to bulge, with prominent upper lids.

Your Goal: Bring the eyes in a little and minimize the top lids.

Line: Line upper and lower lids, with a slightly wider band of liner along the lashes of the lower lid.

Accent: Sweep light shadow horizontally across the browbone to take the focus off the lid area.

Define: Sweep a horizontal band of deep shadow across the whole lid, extending from the inner corner to just beyond the outer edge of the eye. This subtly elongates and minimizes prominent lids.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Add a dot of highlighter below the arch of the brow.

Brows & Lashes: Emphasize the highest point of the brow to counteract the roundness of the eye shape. Lightly mascara top lashes, concentrating more color on lower lashes.

Round Eyes ....are shaped almost perfectly oval, not deep-set or overly prominent.

Your Goal: To give eyes more elongation.

Line: Outline both lids evenly, top and bottom, extending eyeliner just beyond the outer corners.

Accent: Focus light color on the outer section of the browbone, brushing outward to elongate the eye. Cover area from browline to lid crease.

Define: Concentrate deep shade at the edge of the eyes, extending color out beyond the eye to elongate.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Overlay a little highlighter on the highest edge of the browbone.

Brows & Lashes: Extend the outside edges of the brows. Creating an arch will also make the eye look less round. Concentrate mascara on the top lashes, especially on the outer corners of the eyes.

Down-slanting eyes...are eyes that seem to droop downward at the outer edges.

Your Goal: "Lift" the outside edges for a livelier look.

Line: Line upper and lower lids. On the lower lid only, slant the liner upward, extending a bit beyond the outside corner of the eye

Accent: Brush light shade along the browbone, concentrating most
Of the color on the outer edges and slanting upward.

Define: Apply deep color to the outer third of the lid, from lashes to crease. Stroke upward at the outer edge to create a lifting effect.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Add a touch of highlighter to the highest point of the browbone.

Brows & Lashes: Accent (or create) a gentle arch to give the brow a slight upslant. Focus most of your lashcolor on the upper lashes, especially at the outside corners.

Hooded Eyes ...are eyes with sagging lids and folds of skin around them.

Your Goal: To minimize the hooded effect.

Line: Use a fine line to outline the lids, upper and lower.

Accent: Sweep light color on the highest point of the browbone,
above the crease.

Define: Smooth deep color horizontally over hooded area, (slightly
above the crease of the eyelid).

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Overlay highlight over the browbone.

Brows & Lashes: Shape brows into an arch to "lift' the eye further.
Concentrate most of your mascara on upper and lower lashes from
inner corner to the middle of the eye.

Small Eyes...are smaller than average, or when compared to the rest of
your features.

Your Goal: Make eyes look larger.

Line: Use a fine line to outline the entire eye. Use a light to medium shade of eyeliner
To avoid "closing" in the eye and making it look even smaller.

Accent: Brush a light shade over the entire lid from lashes to browbone to "open" the entire eye.

Define: Stroke deep shade horizontally, starting from the inner corner, along the lid crease. Extend color slightly past the outer eye corner to widen.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Stroke highlighter under the browline, blending into your light color.

Brows & Lashes: Brush brows up and extend the line of the brows slightly past the eye. Thin brows make eyes look larger. Apply mascara generously on top lashes and lightly on lower lashes.

Asian Eyes....are almond-shaped with little or no natural crease in the lid.

Your Goal: Create contrast between eye, lid and browbone.

Line: Line upper and lower lids, keeping line close to lashes.

Accent: Bring out the browbone with your light shade.

Define: Create the effect of a crease in the lid, by starting your deep color
at the inside corner of the eye and drawing it horizontally midway between the lash
line and the brow bone. Blend to avoid an obvious 'stripe' of shadow.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Add highlight on the outer third of browbone.

Brows & Lashes: Giving the brow a slightly arched shape 'opens' the eye. If eyes are small, also extend the edges of browline. Apply mascara generously to upper and lower lashes.

1. Brush brows upward. Carefully trim any excess hair above the top of your natural arch. Be careful not to take off too much at the ends or you'll have brow "bald" spots.

2. Look closely at the shape. Your brow should begin above your tear duct, peak at the outer edge of your iris and end at the outer corner of your eye. "Many women make the mistake of taking off too much at the outer corners," says Weston. "This slants the brows upward and makes the person look perpetually angry." They should be level or horizontal at both ends.

3. Prep your skin: Put some astringent on a cotton ball and wipe it across your nose, forehead, cheeks and behind your ears.

4. Hold a pencil in line with the outer side of your iris and note where the peak of your arch naturally occurs. From the arch to the outer corner of the eye, your brow should fall in a straight or slightly curved line, depending on the look you're trying to achieve.

5. Hold the tweezers at a 45-degree angle and pluck the stray hairs below the brow line. Pull in the direction of the hair growth, or you may end up breaking the hair mid-shaft. Follow your natural brow shape — not the trends. It's very difficult to let your brows grow back into their natural shape after you've plucked them to death trying to achieve a particular look.

6. Fill in sparse areas with a freshly sharpened brow pencil. Use light, quick strokes to draw in hair. Brow powder will give thin brows overall definition and is great for a more natural look. Using a brow brush, sweep some powder up and outward over the brows. If you're a brow novice, a tinted brow gel is a foolproof way to keep brows in place. Lightly coat the brows using upward and outward strokes. Wipe off any excess and allow it to set.

Waxing vs. Tweezing
While both methods can produce beautifully shaped brows, waxing is best left to the professionals. "One wrong drop of wax and you can take off half of an eyebrow," warns Weston. "And it may not grow back properly." Waxing is also not advised for women who have sensitive skin, sunburn or use Retin-A and other prescription creams.

That being said, if you've never touched your brows, it may be worth your while to invest in a visit to the salon for a consultation and preliminary waxing. Once the aesthetician has shaped your brows, you will be able to maintain them at home.

Well-groomed brows are the basis of any great face. Find out what to do with the other hair on your head in Fall Hair Trends. Match your sleek look with great style from First Call for Fall.

Beyond Beauty Jane Pratt

Use natural clay masks once/week=pull out toxins, oil and impurities (Natural kaolin=best). Queen Helene (“The Cocktail Facial-$4.)

Drinks lots of water, fruits and vegetables (esp. greens) Avoid sugar and fried foods. Alcohol, smoking and soda are bad too.

Liner: dark gray, brown, black, dark blue and dark green. Dark matte eye shadow applied with sponge-tip applicator. MAC, Chanel, Lancôme. Liner pens; for darker look apply with small thin flat brushes. Not too much on lower-looks heavy and dated. Inside lower lid is hip-blend with sponge-tip applicator into lower lash line.

Mascara-Brown is more modern, curved brushes are best. Waterproof is harder to get off-use only if needed. Maybelline two coats to upper lashes, extra to outer=cat-eye effect.

Blush: keep it simple and don’t over do it, wear a little. Balances face between lips and face. Bronze, copper or pinky. Chanel Tempting beige=best color ever! MAC shades for both shadow and blush. Use natural-hair brush or cotton puff-not synthetic cotton balls or pads, only cotton. Apply to apples of cheeks and then outwards, also temples and forehead for color and balance. Cream blush is easy to apply with sponge. Blend

Lips: need color and moisture. Find one or two and stay with those. Never match to outfit. Stay away from super matte/dark browns. Try light formulas-sheers, frost and shimmers; pearl shades-bronze, soft lavender, rose and cherry for a softer effect. Kiehl’s Golden Berry. Go darker or brighter than natural color. Darker=burgundy, wine, rose-brown; brighter-cherry or red, well blended. Let natural lip color show through. Use lip liner to build up thinner lips, blend inward. MAC (Spice & Nutmeg), Chanel (Nude), Max Factor (Nude).

The Brushes of the Trade


All pictured brushes are provided courtesy of PRESCRIPTIVES		Foundation Brush Tip: Dot product onto face and brush to blend, or pour product into hand and then brush on face. Use dry to apply highlighter to cheeks.	Buff Brush Tip: With edge of brush, use one shade deeper than skinone to contour and shape. Next, blend with flat surface in a circular motion to soften and even out color.

Cheek Brush Tip: For a natural "Sun-Kissed" look, dip cheek brush in correct level of loose powder, Dip it into cheek color and apply. This guarantees a soft, sheer look. Apply to apple of cheeks and across nose, chin and forehead.	Powder Brush Tip: After applying foundation, use brush to apply a light dusting of powder. Then, use it again to remove any excess. When the face is completely made up (Eyes, Lips, and Cheeks) Use the brush to blend it all together - Seamlessly.	Soft Shadow Brush Tip: Using a light color eye shadow sweep across eyelid for an instant eye-opening effect. Can also be used to highlight cheeks, nose area and underneath mouth.	Eye Shaper Brush Tip: Use eye shaper brush to apply darker shades in the corner of the eyes. Next, with the edge of the brush, smooth on the same shades very close to the lashes to create a smoky effect.

Eyelining Brush Tip: First dip the brush in powder eyeshadow and shake off any excess. Then, use the tip to create definition by brushing along the edge of the lashes.	Fine Lining Brush Tip: Perfect for wetting eyeshadows to create a liquid-like eyeliner. Divide the palette in half - one side for wet application, the other side for dry. Use as a lip defining brush to create a very dramatic mouth.	Eyeshadow Brush Tip: Dust brush in your powder eyeshadow and apply. Use lighter shades all over to highlight. Use darker shades along browbone to accent and contour.	Lip Brush Tip: The lip brush is perfect for smooth, even application. Apply lip coloring pencil first to lip line, Then use the brush to fill in lips with a favorite complementary lipstick shade. Blot, reapply for longest wear.

A Review by Jenelle

Concealer - dab on dark circles, broken capillaries, blemishes, or anything you want to hide

Loose Powder - apply with a big, fluffy brush to give a smooth finish to your skin without the heavy look of foundation

Blush - apply lightly to the apples of your cheeks to give you a bit of natural color; skip this step if you are naturally rose-y

You have never, or hardly ever, used make-up products. You're concerned about your appearance, but never quite know how to make the most of your natural beauty. You don't dare experiment too much because you're frightened the result might not be exactly what you had in mind! We think you'll be interested by what we've got to say...
Let us guide you towards your first, real make-up successes.

Under-eyes circles? Blemishes? Skin discoloration? Broken capillaries? Shiny skin? Don't let a few imperfections here and there get you down! Even the super models get them sometimes - they just know how to hide them!
And there you are, all made up. No one will notice the make-up, but everybody will suddenly wonder why it is that you're looking so good. That's the magic of makeup with natural, 'built-in' success!

Tonight, you're going to be the most attractive woman out there!
You've decided to really go for a total transformation; a look like you might see around the nightclubs. Have fun and relish the transformation, because above all, make-up should be something to enjoy.

A final check in the mirror...and Cinderella shall go to the ball! This is but the beginning of your voyage of make-up discovery!

Getting the best look possible with what you have and going about improving that which you can. Prepare yourself for an evening out.

The Basics

It starts with the basics, long before an actual evening out and about. Starting with proper skin care, getting enough sleep, watching what and how you eat and what you drink all adds up to a more beautiful you, both inside and outside the body.

First, sleep, feel they don’t need anymore but not only is sleep better for stress management, it can do wonders for the soul and eliminate those bags under the eyes. Those bags can also be managed by drinking plenty of fluids, especially water. You should drink 8 oz. cups a day. Tea, coffee and soda are actually de-hydrating as well as fattening, so avoid those and anything else with sugar in it for a beverage, water is best! Cucumbers work wonders for bags under the eyes.

As for other treatments, L’Oreal makes a product called “Revit-a-lift” that is every bit as good as the $30-40 department store eye creams and it is available at all drug and grocery stores for as little as $10.00!

Wash your face twice daily. Use facial liquid soaps / foaming cleansers not bar soaps as they all have lard as an ingredient which can clog pores, causing blemishes. After a wash, wait an hour and then blot your “T-Zone”, that is the forehead/nose area with a paper tissue. If it shows a residue, you have oily skin. If you wash your face and immediately afterwards, your skins feel dry or tight, you are using a too harsh soap. Notice that these are not the same things, you could indeed; still have “oily” skin. If there is no residue, you could have dry, normal skin. Combination skin is when your forehead feels oily after an hour but your cheeks feel dried out. All of this goes into how to take care of your skin. When you have oily skin, you can forego using a moisturizer. Dry skin begs for it. If your skin does show blemishes, even with proper two-a-day washings, you have clogged pores. Rinsing with cold water and attacking the blemishes with anti-septic, such as those that you get when you have your ears pierced with make most spots go away in a matter of a couple days. Avoid the Clearasil-type treatments, as they are too drying and don’t treat the problem, they only make it worse. Be aware that this is a simple overview. You may have to go to a dermatologist for specific problems. Blemishes can be caused by hormonal changes within the body and heredity among other things. Water can help by purifying the skin from the inside and keeping it pliable.

The area around the eyes is the most sensitive and there is less muscle there. The skin is also thinner. When you wash your face, rinse with plenty of water and when taking make off, do not stretch the skin. Keep moisturizers not made for the eye area away as the fragrances and other additives can cause puffiness.

Take your make up off every time you wear it. Use the least strong removers that will still do the job. Waterproof mascaras are the hardest to remove. Cetaphil is extra mild and dermatologist-recommended. Department store brands are the most expensive but not necessarily better. Going to bed with makeup on is sure to clog the pores. There are wet-wipes and other methods available to try with and without water available.

Investigate the products label for ingredients that you may be allergic to or that can cause a reaction. It helps to try a new product in a discreet area first and wait 48 hours before you put it to use. Some people are just more sensitive to certain things than others.

Additional Beauty Tips by: Sam Dean who joined The Rumour team as Beauty Writer after extensive travels abroad. She previously worked on New Woman as the beauty assistant but is now putting her stamp on the dot-com world.

1. Creamy pink lipsticks can double up as blush.
2. Eye shadow works as eyeliner. Just use a thin damp brush.
3. Moisturizer applied on the ends of your hair will temporarily seal split ends.
4. Mild shampoos can double up as shower gel.
5. Hair conditioner works well as shaving foam.
6. If you wake up with bed head hair try changing your Pillow Case. Satin Pillow Cases allow the hair to slide along the pillow in your sleep whereas cotton cases don't.
7. Hold your hairdryer above your head, the hot air will then flow down the hair shaft and over the cuticles.
8. If you have sensitive eyes stick to baby shampoo, the soap won't hurt if it gets in the eye.
9. If you have colored hair avoid dandruff shampoos, they strip the color causing fade.
10. Never use other people's mascara, unless you want to risk conjunctivitis or other eye infections.
11. Try Scotch tape instead of expensive T Zone stickers to drag out those black heads.
12. If you have small eyes, avoid dark eye-shadows, they make the eyes look smaller.
13. Thin-lipped people should wear glossy lipstick, which makes lips appear fuller.
14. If you're looking to buy makeup brushes, check out art shops as they're much cheaper and just as affective.
15. Don't wash your hair if you're wearing it up. The natural oils in unwashed hair make it easier to style.
16. If your skin is dry use a cream, if it’s oily use lotion or gel.
17. If you look tired don't pile makeup like mascara or eyeliner on the lower eyes - it will just drag your face down and make you look exhausted.
18. Never pluck eyebrows from the top, just pull out those strays along the natural eyebrow line at the bottom.
19. Don't bother with expensive eye makeup removers, Johnson's Baby Oil works better.
20. For shiny hair rinse in mineral water.
21. Skip wearing mascara on the lower lashes, it doesn't do much for defining the eye and it always smudges.
22. Experiment with new colors from the supermarket before you waste money on posh brands that don't suit you.
23. If you're into home dying, wipe a little Vaseline around your hair line to stop skin getting dyed.
24. If you're posh, mix Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream with a powder eye shadow for a 'grease' effect. If you're not posh, Vaseline works nearly as well
25. If you want your blush to look natural choose the shade your cheeks turn when you blush naturally

Brands: Basically you have two main choices besides the Avon lady, Mary Kay, etc. -Drug store brands and the department stores'. Department stores are nice because you have someone there helping guide you through the daunting choices of the many foundations, etc with regard to your skin type, pigment color and style and particular needs. The down side is you could spend a bunch of money and either still have just scratched the surface or two, it will be just one opinion, not necessarily a correct one. This service also has another price. Department store brands are very expensive and you do not always get what you pay for! Remember also, store lighting can have a major impact on the choices made and these could also be bad decisions. Many stores sell line covering products for also reducing dark circles. These products only make the lines disappear for as long as you are wearing them and there are ways to preventing circles in the first place. Point is, they are sold as creams, ointments what have you for upwards of $30.00. Down at the local drug store or supermarket you can buy L'Oreal's' Revitalift, (new!-Line Eraser) which does the same exact thing for $10.00! My favorite Department store counters are Clinique, Prescriptives, MAC and anything French! At the drug stores, I favor Maybeline, L'Oreal and Oil of Olay.

Specifics:

Cleansers: Always liquids because bar soaps have lard in them and can clog pores. I like mine with moisturizers in them like Dove's. Masks and scrubs that exfoliate are good to use once per week. Avoid too much pulling and straining around the eye area. Use lots of water.

Moisturizers: Oil of Olay makes a very light one and others are available with an SPF-15 built in. Bear in mind, not everyone needs a moisturizer and it is best to use one after your shower and 10 minutes before applying makeup for the skin to absorb it in. Jergen's has a shave minimizing formula out now you can buy for about $4.00! It feels nice. Some swear by it. I don't know yet.

Foundations: Most critical decisions are based upon your skin type, coverage necessary, how to apply and skin color. Available in creams, lotions and compact, you need to know the purpose of foundation is to even out skin tone. Foundation should disappear on your skin; the shade should always exactly match your natural coloring. The key to a perfect finish is simple: blend, blend, blend, and then blend.

Apply lightly with clean fingers, brush or sponge (dry or damp). Beard cover works best with either separate products such as Dermablend or tricks such as lipstick, etc. Matt will yield the greatest coverage, lotions the least. To help reduce shine, blot oil with a tissue before touching up with powder.

Concealers: Used to cover specific blemishes such as showing capillaries, red spots of no particular known origin, birth marks, etc. They can also be used alone or with lipstick or Dermablend as beard cover up. Yellow in stick form, one shade lighter than your own skin tone is recommended. Laura Mercier's Secret Camouflage concealer is best at hiding dark under-eye circles. Use a small brush or your fingertip and apply only where needed, available in pot, lotion or cream.

Men Tips: There are things men can use to improve their looks. Liquid blush looks great when used sparingly. It really warms up the skin. Try it on cheeks, the bridge of your nose, chin, temples, and / or at the hairline. Also, try using it on lips to enhance the natural lip color.

A well-blended, yellow-based concealer can help cover up minor imperfections (pimples or redness around the nose), and an eyelash curler is just as effective at opening up men's eyes as it is on women. Brow pencil is another thing men can use to give very subtle definition to the eye. If you like a healthy or tanned look, a sheer bronzing powder looks great too -- if you have more patience, try some self-tanner. Keeping eyebrows and facial hair well-groomed, helps too.

Powders: You generally want to go with a translucent, very fine loose powder. Powder goes on after the foundation and concealer and gives a finished look as well as locking it in. Optionally, put on a coat of loose face powder again after all other color has been applied to help soften the look. Take pressed power (compact) with you for quick touchups. Powder gives your skin a finished look. Using a big powder puff, lightly brush away any excess powder for a clean, flawless look.

The reason why your face looks white or like a ghost from the neck up in photos, or your neck/chest looks darker is because of powder. Even though to the eye, your face and neck might match, powder matte down the skin and reflects light back off of it and washes you out. So to avoid the two-tone look, you either have to powder your face and your neck and/or chest, or else you have to not apply powder to your face.

Shadows: Available wet or dry, cream and wild. Choices abound! Achieve a harmonious look by choosing shades within the same color family. For day wear, choose natural shades depending on your eye color. You want to keep the look natural but bring out the color you have. Apply a little foundation or concealer on your eyelids followed by a pale, light shade over entire lid and brow bone. Then accent with a darker shadow along the lid. Example: For blue eyes, choose shades of brown-2 or 3. The lightest is the highlighter. This goes on first and usually all it takes is a "swoosh" under and across the natural brow line. Next the medium shade is applied onto the lid itself and just beyond the crease, keeping most of the darker shades now to the outer corner of the eye. The darkest shade can be used in the crease itself very judiciously or just at the lash line, wet being the best for longer wear. Just dip an angled brush into a small pot of water, shake off excess and then dig into a side area of your shadow, again shaking off excess and apply as closely to the lash line as possible, starting from the inside of the eye, working outward. Repeat for other eye. As to doing the bottom lash line, that may be taking it too far, particularly for a day look. Remember, less is more. Make up should enhance what you already have not draw attention to itself. Too much and your a caricature of a woman or a Drag Queen. For night time, pretty much anything goes, the darker the better sometimes for “glamour” look.

To apply cream eye shadow, use a sponge to smooth on a very thin, very light layer of loose powder on the entire eyelid before putting on the shadow. Lightly apply cream eye shadow using your fingers. Follow with another light application of loose powder.

Eye Liners: Pencils, "Art liners", creams, combination pencils or shadows? Pencils drag, liners smudge, creams disappear or "roll." Shadows are my choice to use as a liner. Easy to put on, they stay and can be built upon and easily blended. One way to balance out your face is to focus on your eyes. Don't put a big black line around your eyes unless you want a closed-in look. Keep the eye area open. Keeps eye shadow flowing outward off the eye. Lift your brows by tweezing the arch a little higher than normal. This will visually alter the proportions of the face and draw the eye upward and away from your mouth.

Mascara: Waterproof for times you will either perspire or otherwise be getting wet, regular is easier to take off without hurting your skin and therefore much more recommended. Max Factor 2000 Calorie and L’Oreal Volume Express are two favorites. They go on without clumping and make for wonderful looking lashes. If you curl (recommended), do so before apply mascara, otherwise you will have them sticking and breaking off! Curling lashes opens up the eyes. Putting a little extra powder under the eyes to catch fallen flakes is also recommended. One coat of brown for day wear, two coats of black for night. Use a metal fine-tooth lash comb immediately after applying to separate lashes and a Q-tip, available in flat/pointed sides as well, for blending away flakes on and around the eye.

Brows: Pencil or shadow work well to fill in a light brow. Brows are important as they frame your face, always tweeze from below the brow. Working with shadow and a flat angled brush starting in the darkest area and work outward, tapering to the outside of the eye in a fine line. If pencil is to be used, apply in short strokes outward and into a tapered point. Color should match your natural head hair. Follow this with either an old toothbrush or a brow brush, brushing to smudge and diffuse the color, blending it in and bringing your brow to a point at the bottom. If you apply too much color, soften it by applying a bit of loose face powder in your correct shade with a powder puff. Your brow should be even between left and right sides and you should use the pencil to nose tip pertaining to where the arch should start, its peak and where it should end.

Lips: Save for second last and after you put your top on. Optionally, start by using lip liner pencil and frame in around the natural line, depending on whether you have thin lips or full lips. You may choose to forgo this with the new 8-hour type lip sticks and just apply these with a brush rather than the tube, dusting with single-ply tissue paper in-between lips and power. Do this about three times. For males, to get fuller lips, cover the edges all around your mouth with concealer, and blend well into the skin. Then use a sharpened lip pencil in a neutral color with a firm texture to draw outside your natural lip line. Then just fill in the color with pencil or the lip color of your choice. Use the four-point method. Dot the tips of your top lips and the bottom directly below and draw a line outward to the corners. Follow with lipstick, using a lip brush for a more finished appearance and fuller coverage. Again, blot with single-ply tissue and repeat using lipstick from the tube, building the color for longer staying power. Finish with a spot of gloss on the middle bottom lip and smack lips together for fuller looking lips. Do not try to have both attention getting lips and eyes at the same time. Go for one or the other. If your eyes are to be the focal point, then choose soft shades of lip color.

It's really hard to keep a dark lip color on if you're eating and drinking, no matter how good the brand is. Just remember if you're eating anything even remotely oily, it will take the color right off, just as if you were eating makeup remover. So if you're out at dinner or a party, try to remember to blot your lips with a napkin or tissue as you're eating to keep color from smearing. You might try dusting a little loose powder on the edge of lips before going out for the night - it can increase color's staying power.

Blush: Definitely last. You do not want to apply too much as is usually common, nor do you want racing stripes! Using a crème or powder, blush in a shade that matches your natural color after a run. Apply powder with a blush brush, not the one they gave you included with the product but one that is properly shaped, textured and sized to do the job correctly! Make a smile and apply at the apples of the cheeks and blend towards the temple. For crèmes, use your fingers and apply in a triangular fashion using the same rules. Do not use too much! Less is more.

"Application is everything!" This is definitely a true statement when it comes to creating that oh-so-flawless face of beauty, regardless of what actual makeup products are being used. It’s all about technique…so here’s a quick run down of application techniques.

CONTOUR - To create shadows, or give dimension to the low planes of the face, i.e., temples, orbital bone, sides of nose, under the cheekbones, jaw line, cleft, corner of lips

HIGHLIGHT - To emphasize the high planes of the face, i.e., center of forehead, brow bone, bridge of nose, above cheekbone, chin, center of bottom lip, center of eyelid

STAIN - To apply color, then remove it, leaving behind the stain or first layer of application

110 Mistakes Working Women Make and How to Avoid Them: Dressing Smart in the '9Os; By Joanna Nicholson

Bobbi Brown Beauty: The Ultimate Beauty Resource; By Bobbi Brown, Annemarie Iverson (Contributor)

Sensational Scarf’s: 44 Great Ways to Turn a Scarf into a Fabulous Fashion Look; By Carol Straley

1001 Beauty Solutions: The Ultimate One-Step Adviser for Your Everyday / Beauty Problems; By Beth Barrick-Hickey

Chic Simple Women's Wardrobe: Kim Johnson Gross and deft Stone; By Rachel Urquhart, James Wojcik (Photographer)

The World's Best-Kept Beau~ Secrets: What Really Works in Beauty, Diet & Fashion; By Diane Irons

The make up counters of department stores-Estee Lauder, Clinique, MAC, and Prescriptives, etc. all offer a lot of information. Many times department store offer free make-overs and give free samples for you to try just for your skin type and color.

Nails

Once a week give yourself a manicure, toes and hands. Let your hands and feet soak in water for about 10 minutes. Then using a cuticle removing cream, cotton and an orange stick, push the cuticles back, do not clip, to the skin. Let your fingernails grow and keep them filed to approximately ¼” white showing. In a single direction, file your nails straight across then under the corners, rounding them slightly. Do the same for the toe nails but keep them shorter. One reason we don’t want to go through more hose than we have to. Make sure they are smooth.

The trend in fingernails these days is medium length. Wear extensions for special occasions. A French nail, where you use a masking tape and paint your tips white is nice to wear on occasion for a clean look but nothing beats a full nail polish. Reds are best for toes and anything goes for the fingernails. The color does not have to match your outfit, indeed it rarely does. Use darker shades as you would for your lips and eyes for evening and lighter, paler colors for day. Remove polish using cotton balls and a non-acetone polish remover, Cutex makes a very good one. Hold the cotton ball with the remover on the nail for a brief 10-15 seconds. It makes the polish come off much easier. One ball should remove polish from the nails of one hand. Dispose in the toilet, then flush.

Keep in mind there are several ways to take of nails. Buffing them, using a nail hardener or a matt finish polish on them are all things you can try besides regular polish.

As for polishes, your nails are the last things you do before going out, unless you have the luxury of being able to use a polish all of the time. The express or quick-drying formulas are not as smooth nor does the product last as long in most cases as the regular polishes do. Even so a quick dry one will take about 10 minutes to be dry enough to put a coat on and at least 30 to 60 more will be needed for a real hard finish.

Keeping a polish in the refrigerator can help an older one go on smother. Trying to bring them back to life with a solvent is not a good idea. To eliminate streaking dip the polish brush in the bottle for each nail. Twice may be necessary for the thumbnail. Using the stroke method, apply the polish down the middle from the skin outward. Follow this up with a stroke along each side of that middle one, not to the edge of your nail at the finger. That is not necessary; in fact not going “edge to edge” can make your nails look longer! It is also far easier to get the polish off for a no-tell after finish when it has been removed after your evening is over. Before you use a color on your nails it helps to have a base coat to allow easier removal of all the color later. Women use a base to help fill in the nail for a more finished look as well as a strengthener.

There are “correcting pens” to remove mistakes but these are not necessary. After each nail, if a mistake was made use your other hands finger or thumb nail to remove the excess polish and then wipe onto a tissue in between. Doing this right away as you go will be far easier and successful than waiting till later to them all at one time. If you are able to wear polish all the time the excess that falls on the skin will come off with wear and/or subsequent washings like on your toes. Following a base-polish with a coat or two of color and then a then a layer of a quick dry coat or topcoat is only for long term wear.

Brands: OPI, Revlon, MAC but not the fast finish types. You trade speed drying for over-all smoothness.

Lengths: Your own nails or something glued on. You don't have to bother carrying glue or a nail repair kit with spares and it is far easier getting dressed without those long nails getting in the way. Try keeping natural nails manicured yourself and well cared for. Keep them at a medium length which works well. Too long and they will break, split (or draw attention for males).

Colors: Daytime-mostly paler colors like frost or pearl whites, silver, various shades of pink; nighttime-same or more likely darker shades like reds, wine colors, even black.

Finish Types

Hardeners/Strengtheners: Always use these, day time or as base to color finishes. They will help you to grow longer nails without splits or breaks. Choose OPI matte hardener for general everyday wear, this is a clear, un-detectable polish that is really one of a kind. A bit expensive but worth it or L’Oreal if you don’t mind a shine!

Base Coats: Just what they say they are. These or the hardeners can also act as a shield between your nail and the color, making the color more completely and easily removed.

Top Coats: Not necessary, unless you will be leaving your color on for a period of time like as on your toes for a few weeks. They just help the polish withstand the wear nails go through in a typical day or week, forestalling the re-application of color. After a few weeks due to normal growth or weekly, you may want to re-do your nails anyway. That is when to give yourself a pedicure by the following methodology:

Pedicure: Using a Non-Acetone nail polish remover, remove all color, then wash with soap and water and pat dry. Using a cuticle remover (Sally Hanson's, Revlon, etc.), spot around the perimeter of the nail and then using an "orange stick" and a piece of cotton push the cuticle back toward the toe, never cut. Do this carefully and thoroughly. Again wash and dry. At this point, you may wish to use lotion and work that into the cuticles and around the nail completely, do your whole foot even, if you really want to indulge. Let your feet soak in warm water and use a pumice stone to remove old dead alligator skin to treat and revive your feet. Use a toe clipper and first clip the nails to a relatively short length and follow with an emery board filing (metal is ok here but never on your fingernails)! Only file in one direction and include rounding the corners. Filing in a saw fashion, weakens the nails and will cause them to be more brittle. Rounded toe nails and straight across fingernails, with a longer look and rounded edges is preferred. At this point you are done. It is good to let the nails not be polished for a few days so as to breathe. When you do polish, two coats of a red are best for the toes. Top coats, hardeners, etc. are optional.

Technique: